My Belly Glass Project

[gwarzin]

I've started to customize a few machines - not for resale, but just for myself. I thought I post messages as I go along so you can learn as I do.

My first project was a "Spriggan" pachislo. Spriggan is a Japanese anime film about a secret army protecting the world from evil. The front corporation that runs the Army is called ARCAM. Since ARCAM is also the name of the audio components that my company imports from Britain, I though it would be fun to have a Spriggan pachislo.

The idea was to do this first machine the quickest and easiest way. The graphics came from the Spriggan movie website. The picture was intended to be used as PC wallpaper. I did some minor edits to make it fit the proportions of the belly glass.

The base machine was one of pachislo.com's $49 Hanabi wholesale specials. Here's the step by step:

1. Remove the original belly glass. There are several tabs that are accessible from the inside of the front door. Press these and the entire belly glass assembly will just pop off.

2. Remove the original belly glass from the frame. There are 2 metal strips holding the glass. Taking out a few screws lets you remove one of these and the glass just slips out from under the other.

3. Get some Lexan from Lowes. You want the thickness that is about half the thickness of the original belly glass. $10 buys enough to do a couple of machines.

4. Using the original belly glass as a guide, cut the Lexan to size. You'll need 2 pieces because you will be sandwiching your artwork between the sheets. You can cut the stuff with a table saw, but I just used a scoring knife and snapped it. Stanley makes a special plastic scoring knife that you can also find at Lowes.

5. Print your artwork. I did this the quick and dirty way. I used the Xerox Docucolor 12 copier at work which will print 11 x 17 in color. Just did it on plain paper. You might think you'd want to use transparency film, but because you can't print white, you want something with a white background. (Backlit film would probably be better, but that's for the next project).

6. I had one extra printing step because I printed the ARCAM logo in reverse on the back side of the paper. This allows the ARCAM logo to show when the pachislo is on, but it totally disappears when the power is turned off.

7. Sandwich the artwork between the 2 sheets of Lexan and put everything back together.

Here's what it looks like (shown with the power on and off):

http://www.audiophilesystems.com/~wa...o/spriggan.jpg


Coming up next - experiments with backlit film.

[ZeroZ]

Wow, very nice!

[gwarzin]

Just started doing research on backlit film. Here's what I've got so far.

If you want to do it yourself you'll need a wide format (13 x 19) printer. The 2 most popular are from Canon and Epson. The Epson retails for $699 and the Canon for $499. At first glance the Epson looks more exciting. They use some very special pigment based inks that seem to do a very good job with photos. However, upon further research, the inks don't work very well on backlit film. Most backlit film needs dye based inks like the Canon inks. So, not only is the Canon the better choice, it's cheaper. One of the cheapest places I found was Costco.com. Here is the link:

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...pnav=&cat=


I have ordered one and it should be here next week.

I have also ordered 2 different types of backlit film. The one from Red River is is already cut into 13 x 19 sheets. The other is from Kodak and is on a roll and will need to be cut to fit into the printer. The Kodak stuff is a little thicker - might work better for reel strips, but I won't know until I actually try it. Usually backlit film like the Kodak comes in 100 foot rolls and cost about $200. This is the only place I've seen it in short rolls.

http://www.redrivercatalog.com/brows...mp;prod=35.htm

http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/product...5Fid=KDPBL7NEW

Both these are front print film. This should be the best choice. There is also rear print, where you print the image on the back in reverse. This is done so the image is protected. But, since our image will be under the Lexan, we shouldn't need to worry about this. My guess is that having the ink on the front surface provides the sharpest image and the most saturated colors.

All this stuff should arrive next week so I will have a chance to play with it over the Christmas holidays.

[Tulsa]

Good information Gwarzin, thanks! 8-)

[Davis]

ive found that you really dont need two pieces of lexan unless you really feel like it needs it too! I usually have my lexan cut to 1/16th. It fits better and never gives me a problem. To keep the film on the lexan instead of buying extra lexan, i use a bit of brush on super glue. If apploed liberally to the outer edges of the lexan you wont even see it. The casing always covers up about 1/8th inch of the film, so the glue holds it in place! 99% of the time when the film and case is inserted back into the machine it keep sthe film in place on its own! As for the color white, im not sure how it works but ive never had a problm with it on any ive had made. THe film is a milky whit color but somehow when white is on the picture it comes out very crisp and clear, much more than the original film! ive yet to try an all white picture though!

[Webdude]

Great information! One bit of information I can give you is make sure your image is about four shades darker then you want because when you put a light behind it, it will look much lighter.

[gwarzin]

Davis, Thanks for that info on using the single Lexan. I had to use the 2 layers on my first machine because the artwork was just on paper. But, because that meant that that the individual layers were thinner there is a little flex in the belly glass if you touch it. So, it doesn't "feel" quite like the original. When I begin working with the film, which is a bit more rigid than paper, I'll try your suggestion. It probably also slightly decreases the cost - 1 thinker piece of Lexan should be less expensive than 2 thin ones. It might require cutting with a table saw rather that being able to snap it.

On the "white" problem - I think you are right, the film should work just fine since it is translucent. My comment was meant to point out that the clear film used for overhead transparencies wouldn't work. Because you don't print white, but rely on the paper or film to provide that color, you end up seeing through a transparency and actually seeing the light bulb. Shouldn't be a problem with backlit film.

[arbycoffee]

I could not have said it better (other I have only used backlite film)

[fierodog]

The clear might work if you backed it with white plexi. but for all that might as well get the backlight film

[fierodog]

hey gwarzin that is the same machine at the store here for $120. is that a good price for that machine with no shipping.

[Davis]

Yeah if you think about it, youll be cutting lexan prices in half if you only use one piece. I tried using two at firs, but found that alot of times even at the 1/16th thickness it was still too thick to fit in the frame. So, I decided to just start using 1 piece and its worked great! As for the white, i think when the colors surrond the white on lthe backlit film it look smuch much whiter than it is, that swmy only guess to how the white shows up so well!

[gwarzin]

that is the same machine at the store here for $120. is that a good price for that machine with no shipping.

Figure the wholesale price is $50, but if you're only buying one it would cost you about $100 and shipping on a single machine is $60. So $120 with no shipping sure looks like a reasonable deal to me.

[gwarzin]

While I'm waiting for the printer and backlit film to arrive I've started to work on some artwork.

The machine is a Jerry Springer pachislo in sort of a Simpson's graphics style. If all goes as planned the reels will generate "show topics" like:

- Naked - Female - Truck Drivers

Each spin will turn up 5 different show topics along the pay lines. Really good topics will be rewarded with a payout. Three Jerry Spingers puts you in the bonus round.

http://www.audiophilesystems.com/~wa...ringertest.jpg

[arbycoffee]

The Reels - into the twilight zone.

Cool

[Lazarus]

How do you plan to put the new graphics on the reels? I have asked that here before. No suggestion on how to get the old graphics off without recking them. Unless you don't care about recking the old ons.

[gwarzin]

Don't know yet. Haven't gotten that far. I'd rather not damage the old ones, but the 3 machines that I have for modification didn't cost very much, and were purchased specifically to experiment with. So if I screw up the old reels, that's not a problem.

[Tulsa]

:smt046

Gary, that's really very :twisted: ! I love it! 8-)

[Lazarus]

My babel is for customizing. on the Fourth reel Davis did not take off the reel graphics because the new graphic was dark enough to not see the original graphic underneath. On mine I know that will not work. So off came the graphic strip! Did not damage the original graphic or the reel. The strip is held on the reel by what looks to be heavy duty double sided tape. Both on the edges and at the joint of the strip. The tape is sort of spongy, will lift off of reel if you take a dull (not sharp!) thin bladed putty knife. I first used a stiff old used putty knife with its edges worn down to lift the joint at its starting point. Be VARY CAREFULL This is ware you will damage the strip if you don't pry up and in under the sticky tape. Support the underside of the strip with your hand. The strip is thin and bends inward easily. Work one side a little then the other till the putty knife is all the way through the tape. The strip is only three inches wide so first one edge then the other. This is slow going but when you get the joint free you then can switch to th thin putty knife and run it slowly down the edge of the reel. Work both sides again 1 1/2 to 2 inches on a side then back and forth. When you get twords the end the reels get vary flimsy. Each side is separate from the other. BEFORE YOU GET TO THE END MARK THE END OF THE STRIP! Use a peace of tape mark the end of the strip and an arrow in the direction of the strip. The babel has numbers on the side of the reel also, note what number the strip started at. A little adhesive stayed on the reel edges. On my project I do not think this will matter but if it will on yours then some type off goo gone or other adhesive remover should work. Look to see if it can be used on plastic first! The thing I my have trouble with is I don't know how thick the new reel graphic will be. Remember it is the stiffness of the strip and the outer reel edge that gives it th shape. I my have to back the new strip with a clear transparent peace to get it thicker.

[gwarzin]

Laz, thanks for that. I think I'm going to be trying that this weekend if I get any time away from the family.

[Lazarus]

I thought of one thing this morning. I wonder how the double sided tape will hold up over time? I still have some on the windows from years ago (From putting up plastic). The stuff that is on the reels is reel thin spongy foam. Sort of like whether strip. Any help on finding something like this?