Sankyo Lumina frame power issue

[shnetinka]

I seem to be having and issue with my Indian Jones. When I open the front and manually put balls in the scoring area, nothing happens. I also checked the output board on the back that should have 24v at it when the door is open but I get nothing. Is there somewhere on the unit I can test for the right voltages? I'm not really sure. When I test the voltage at the output board on the wires coming in I am only seeing 12v. Shouldn't it be 24?

Thanks!

[Drunkenclam]

The power supply on the lumina has multiple fuses with indicator LEDs. Check to see their state
Also check for error codes on the back. I assume the screen is working?
Also although all pockets should trigger a payout. Only the centre start pocket will trigger a video reel spin.of course this doesn't include the sub roulette gates. Check out the lumina frame manual on daverobs site. Sorry not in a position to provide a link at the moment.

[shnetinka]

All leds are lit an no error number, just the dashes on the 8 digit. tried all the pockets including middle. No activity, No sound, no anything. The screen is on and the lights are in the attract mode but no action at all. I am using the manual on DaveRob's site and all though it is goodm, i can't really make heads of tails of what could be the issue.

Steve

[Drunkenclam]

Sorry, but all of my lumina frames are still packed up, so unable to test. My Julie cel is accessible to see if i can see the wiring, but for now. it might be worthwhile, just unplugging and reseating the cables from the main boards. espceially the ones from the board that has the 2 pin yellow plug on it. (thats the start pocket sensor) The fact that its not just not paying out, but you don't see the reel graphics spin. Also check and reseat the big pink coloured plug from the psu.

One other thing. some of these Sankyos of this age have issues with cold start up. It normally affects the screen and sound. With glitchy animatronics. Its worth leaving it switched on for half an hour in a warm room. Then turn it off and back on again and then try it. Yes I know it sounds mad. But it does sometimes make the machine spring back to life.

[daverob]

The internal electronics on a Lumina frame runs at 12V for sensors and signals between boards, and 5V logic on the boards. The only things that run direct from the '24V' supply (which is usually measured around 32Vdc as it's unregulated rectified AC) are some of the motors and filament lamps.

If it appears to not be powering up properly, then it is most likely to be the cold power up issue as Drunkenclam says. This usually presents as all the lights working normally, but the video screen is either blank or 'glitching', occasional random sounds, and animatronics motors may run at random. This is not caused by a power issue, but the graphics chip on the A/V control board (a big square chip with 'samurai force' written on it). Some have had success fixing the problem by replacing the electrolytic capacitors on this board, or reflowing the solder on this chip, but it doesn't always cure the problem.

[shnetinka]

I guess I am going off the manual that says the frame output signals (the 3 terminals with opto isolators on them) are 24v dc. Not sure what I am missing there. Basically I'm trying to read a signal when the door is opened vs when it is closed, but since there is no reading at those terminals I'm not sure what I'm looking at.


As for monitor issues, I have had success fixing these so far replacing capacitors and cleaning up board that are showing corrosion. I am also trying to collect non working boards as I have a guy that does SMD rework and if I can get working chips , the ones that are dead I can have him swap out.

It is a challenge trying to determine what all of the output terminals mean on the cell output board as I struggle with some of the Japanese translations. I thought the 3 terminal frame output would be self explanatory but clearly I'm wrong.

[daverob]

I guess I am going off the manual that says the frame output signals (the 3 terminals with opto isolators on them) are 24v dc. Not sure what I am missing there. Basically I'm trying to read a signal when the door is opened vs when it is closed, but since there is no reading at those terminals I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

The manual states that they are rated to operate at up to 24V and 0.1A, but they are contact outputs so operate as a switch. You need to provide your own circuit (with it's own power supply) to read the state of these switch 'contacts'. If you're using a meter to try and read a voltage from them, you won't get any reading. If you set your meter to 'continuity' or a low ohms/diode test setting, you should be able to see when they are active or not.