Arrange Ball Parts Info

[Game Guy]

I have tried all of the above, but still get no pay out. Pressing the button has no effect and when I insert another coin still no payout. Shorting the button contacts does nothing. I have operated the micro switches manually and get the correct response(s) so I know that part of the machine is working properly. I suspect I have a problem in the circuit board. Can you tell me the function of the circular arm with the wipe contacts? Does it operate the micro switches or only determine the amount of pay out? I have adjusted the copper contacts but it makes no difference. The motor causes the contacts to rotate 180 d if I manually move the plastic arm and start it but results in no functions at all. I find no cracks or opens in the circuit paths so I'll have to trouble shoot the electronic components
Thanks for your help and advice.
regards
Game Guy

[emmadog]

That wiper arm activates when its time to payout. It "searches" for whichever traces are active because a row and/or column is made.
If you cleaned the contacts and made sure they are making proper contact then I'd put a ball in every pocket and have the wiper do its thing just to see if it will pay on at least some of the payouts.
I suspect its a faulty microchip or relay. LT has this same machine and you should ask him to look at when the relays (the clear cubes) lock in on his and compare that to yours.
If all that fails iodide best bet is an old school tv repairman. These are simple machines and I've had those guys fix a machine for me before.

[Game Guy]

Been thinking perhaps the Red button activates the wiper arm which activates the relays to activate the payout solenoid. I need to determine if this is correct thinking and if so what are the prerequisites which allow the button to work only when needed...ie what is the wiper arm position. No micro chips here, just relays, resisters and a capacitor. This machine has some neat mechanical engineering and is well thought out. I enjoy tinkering with it.

[emmadog]

They are fun to tinker with for sure. I thought there were at least a couple chips somewhere on it but maybe it is purely analog. If so, that's cool and extremely rare. I would think the button activates the relay(s) which start the wiper arm and also energizes the traces that have completions. I really have no idea though. The only machine I have with a wiper arm mech is a Taiyo and it does have a few chips.

[emmadog]

Here's a pic of another members machine of this model. Notice there's a circuit board to the far right of the wiper arm. Looking at your pics I don't see that circuit board but it does look like there's a socket for one.

[emmadog]

Here's your pic of the area in question cropped. On my Taiyo "Flags" arrangeball this board controls the payouts

[emmadog]

And yet more pics. Here's a pic of the Taiyo I refer to above. It's about the same vintage as yours. Also shown is a pic of the circuit board that I think your machine is missing.

[Game Guy]

Yep. You're right. I'm missing a circuit board. . Do you think LT could tell me the make-up of the board? Most likely I couldn't get it duplicated anyway, but at least I can operate with some of the functions and enjoy the game. I'll keep logging in here to see what you all are up to and thanks again for all your help.
Regards,
Game Guy

[emmadog]

I thought it was odd for that game to not have any chips to control the logic and I would have remembered something unusual like that when I had that model.
You'll have to PM LT to see if he can help. Frequently chips are still available or modern equivalents but it'll be difficult to copy without a board in hand to refer to.

[emmadog]

Member Mbodi has this machine also and you can try him but I don't know if he still frequents this site.

[Phulkrum]

The following is some info on parts relating to these machines. The most common part needing to be replaced on these is going to be the various types of light bulbs. A given machine can have several types of lights or all may be the same. The most common bulbs utilized are known as "T 1&3/4" type. These are very small and have two fine wires extending from the base of the bulb. These do not have a bayonet or screw base although these types are made. These wires then extend through the bottom of a silicone socket and the excess is bent up along the sides. The bulb and socket assembly then friction fits over two short metal prongs extending from a circuit board.
The best way to find the right type for a given machine is to use a multimeter to get the specs required. Too high of a voltage will result in a dim light and too low will get hot. In my opinion, the factory bulbs are barely bright enough in a well-lit room. Unfortunately using bulbs rated for a lower voltage may be brighter, but will rapidly heat up. Particularly if the machine is left with matrix and/or score bulbs on. I have seen melted plastic matrix covers, charred circuit boards, and fried silicon sockets from people putting in the wrong bulb.
Here are some specs for several bulbs:
2162-14V@.1A
2174-12V@.04A
2176-24V@.05A
2181-6.3V@.2A
2182-14V@.08
2187-28V@.04A
There are also "regular" light bulbs that some arrange balls use in conjunction with the above mini bulbs. They may be bayonet or screw base and are typically used for the low token lights and general lighting. One most commonly used is the 1897 bulb and can be found at radio shack. In the future I will have a sticky on LED conversion. LEDs vastly outperform the factory bulbs while emitting the original color light. They also give off little to no heat. More on that later.
All of these can be found at bulb supply stores online and also eBay. It pays to search as there is a wide price variation. The silicone sockets frequently must be replaced and I've only seen them for sale on YJA. With shipping I paid 50-75 cents apiece for them . That's pricey for what they are but cheap overall in context with the cost and shipping of the machine. However, wire insulation can be used in lieu of the sockets. See pic below.
These machines all use a transformer that supplies the various voltages needed by the machine. The original voltage going into the transformer was 100V but I've had no issues running my machines on US current. I do however use a step-down transformer these days to bring the incoming current down to the original spec.
Transformers are cheap and easy to be found. Hopefully the machine still has a transformer with all the specs written on it. If not, sometimes the specs are written on the circuit boards themselves but this will require someone who knows what they're doing to correctly find and wire in a new power source.
Missing or damaged circuit boards can be fixed and replaced, it just comes down to how much the owner is willing to spend. The old circuit board components are cheap as are their modern equivalents, it's just the skilled labor that's expensive. Missing plastic and decorative parts can be reproduced with casting resin as long as an original can be found for the master mold. I've done this for a few parts and makes an exact copy of the original.
Another "part" so to speak are the coins used to play. It's enough to say that just about any coin can be made to work. There are various devices within each machine to regulate the size of the coin. Some control the size by means of a small, sliding metal gate that can be adjusted up or down in the coin entry slot. That is common on Satomi machines. Another common way is to cause the coin to tilt at at angle after it is inserted. This way, the coin's top edge slides along an adjustable bar that if set low enough, allows the coin to continue it's journey into the machine. Any coins too short will simply roll down another slot and back out to the front of the machine in the coin return slot.
Pic is of solution for replacing the silicone lamp sockets.

Has anyone thought of making a double conversion (LED and Socket) for example from this (Photo credit emmadog) DSC01711.jpg and use these for the parts? colors.jpg the cool thing (IMO) with this idea is that you can change your colors on the fly with ease of a socket... thoughts anyone?

[emmadog]

Cool idea and shouldn't be too hard for someone with a little bit of electrical know how. Speaking of, I just picked up a couple thousand brand new silicone sockets. They're like the off white one in my pic above and are famliar to anyone with an arrangeball and/or many modern machines. These are gray or white. If you need some, PM me your shipping addy and name and how many you need.

[gklak144]

Thanks, I'm a new owner and restorer of a Satomi Super Miracle Arrange Ball.

[Moparformances]

Thanks, I'm a new owner and restorer of a Satomi Super Miracle Arrange Ball.

Welcome to Pachitalk

pictures please we need pictures

[emmadog]

yep, post some pics and is your machine functioning?

[gklak144]

Thanks for the info.

[gklak144]

OK, I've taken this machine apart. Will take photos of front and back of front. Thanks for reading.

[emmadog]

Cool. Looking forward to seeing pics.

[LJB]

Do you still have any arrange ball machines

[phurst]

Is there a "go to" transformer people are using? I cooked a 24v doorbell transformer, apparently 1.6A wasn't sufficient. I believe the transformers in my other two arrange balls are rated for 4A.