New truck!

[Moparformances]

factory fresh

[Drunkenclam]

sealed

[pachiwall]

The wiring diagrams in the Chiltons were small, and part of the engine harness schematic. I had hoped they would have used a full page, and had a diagram of the charging system,,,or at a minimum...cranking & charging system. I gave up on the book, and wired it like the old one...at least on the field wires. The battery and ground wires (the old one used the bracket for a ground without a ground wire) were much thicker than the original battery wire. Not sure, looks like an 8gauge compared to a 10gauge. The way the wire came off the back of the alternator, it was routed directly toward the battery. I took enough wiring harness from the junk truck that it reached the positive terminal.DSCF8742.JPG I crimped a big ring on it and hooked it up to the bolt on the positive clamp. DSCF8743.JPG The original battery wire was a smaller gauge, and had got hot in the past, so I did not use it as the way to charge the battery...seemed like a bad idea. Since it is "constant hot" I temporarily cut off the ring and put a wire nut on it to prevent a short to ground. I think I will use this wire for power to the clutch on the compressor. Using a relay triggered by the evaporator box. The 8 gauge ground wire was much shorter, so I crimped a big ring on it and bolted it to the intake manifold. I also temporarily used wire nuts to attach the new wire harness to the truck. This is to verify that it is charging, and make changes easier. I will solder and shrinktube after confirmed function. Here is battery voltage after sitting for a week.DSCF8744.JPG Battery voltage with truck running.DSCF8745.JPG And battery voltage engine off, after idling about 30 minutes.DSCF8747.JPG

[pachiwall]

Nobody said it was gonna be easy! DSCF8748.JPG Many tried to discourage me from trying. I still don't understand that! I want everybody to try everything!
The right side had a steel brace below the glove box...so, a firm support was easy. The left side was an assortment of plastic panels that supported the ash tray...but WAS NOT sturdy enough for a box that has PRESSURE lines going to it. So, I had to take loose MORE than I had planned! The EASY side produced "less than desirable results." DSCF8749.JPG YES, it holds firm. NO! It does not look good! I have decided to LIVE WITH IT. It is not that bad. The harder to work with side...is much more "INVISIBLE"! DSCF8751.JPG Everything RED is plastic. So, I zig-zaged the metal strap up as high as it would go. the strip that should be on the back was twisted and extended the 1st bracket. DSCF8750.JPG DSCF8752.JPG Of course, the screw thru the firewall DID NOT want to come out...so I broke the blower motor switch in the process! DSCF8754.JPG I used my favorite epoxy to fix it. Many SEVERE WEATHER warnings today. Mostly blew over me! When it was nice...I ran wires under the hood. When it rained...I ran wires under the dash! DSCF8752.JPG

[pachiwall]

Two hundred and thirty five dollars!DSCF8766.JPG Suction line. Refrigerant leaving the evaporator goes back into the compressor. I had a "low side" service port put in the middle, and a 7/16-20 schrader valve in the elbow, to mount a low pressure cut out switch.DSCF8767.JPGHigh pressure from receiver/dryer to the expansion valve at the entrance of the evaporator.
And a pic of the NEW hose, next to an ORIGINAL hose.DSCF8768.JPG

[luckydog]

they really rip you off on some parts!!

[pachiwall]

So far, I am happy with what I got. DSCF8772.JPG The rear is a 90 Beadlock with a port for my low pressure cut out switch. The middle is Dodge connector, welded to a steel Beadlock connector. The front is an R134A service port, with Beadlock connectors. This hose is 10 feet long!DSCF8773.JPG I ran them through a hole already "punched" through the firewall.DSCF8776.JPG Came on the far side if the bracket to make room for the glove box.DSCF8780.JPG Looped around the glovebox...and hooked up here.DSCF8783.JPG

[MrGneiss]

So how much more do you have to do before the AC is done??

[pachiwall]

Well 1st of all I have to go to work today. My new (made in China) hose has the R12 high side service port in the wrong place.DSCF8768.JPG On the can, I think it is a muffler, is a test port. On the new one it is aimed at the bracket and won't fit. I may exchange it for one a few years newer, The position is probably upwards. There is a different part number, it is same price, and looks the same. It is likely just as crappy! I am going to explore a few options.
A) Trust that the canister is just metal baffles inside, and flush out the R12 oil and use OEM quality on the junkyard hose.
B Assume that the canister is a filter of some sort and is contaminated with R12 oil. Cut it off and have a steel Beadlock fitting welded on it, cut and weld other end and replace hose and canister with new hose and R134 "high side" fill port. My estimate is that will cost about $125, but I can return the crappy new hose for $72.
C) Exchange crappy new hose for crappy new hose that will bolt up and work, until I get another junkyard hose...CUT OPEN THAT CANISTER to see what it is! Then make new hose from OEM fittings and finally be broke and happy!
plus I have to finish running my power wire for the unit, as well as finish wiring the A/C clutch.
Then I need to get 2 loaner tools, a set of gauges, and a vacuum pump! Those cost about $300 to borrow...but you get all your money back when you return them. Plus about $25 worth of R134A.

[pachiwall]

I almost forgot the New Old Stock option! I called Golling's Arena Dodge to see if they had a 1989 discharge hose/liquid line assembly in stock. Of course he didn't...but searched and found one in Carrolton Georgia. I called, he grabbed it, and described the "clock position" of the R12 service port. It sounds like the correct hose. There is an earlier year, the service port is aimed down...and the bracket gets in the way. You COULD cut a notch in the bracket, it wouldn't weaken it that much. But the hoses and your fingers is close to the belts! Since this is a NOS MOPAR hose, it will have an R12 high side fitting. I will simply use an R12 to R134a conversion adapter screwed on to it.
And the good part...Shipped the cost is $110 and change! It is usually hard to get excited about a part that costs over a hundred dollars...but "custom" hoses are expensive...and NEW hoses were cheap crap! Since R12 was never ran through it...IT doesn't matter WHAT is inside the canister! And I don't have to flush it out!DSCF8793.JPGDSCF8792.JPGThis is the old MOPAR hose. It is the DISCHARGE hose, so it is high pressure gas from the compressor to the condenser...where it sheds heat and condenses into a high pressure gas/liquid mixture that goes to the receiver/dryer. DSCF8791.JPG That is how I understand it to work. I have only studied them to understand enough to SAFELY work on SIMPLE fixes...and how to add one! I do know that this is a high pressure hose both from the compressor to the condenser, AND high pressure from the condenser to the receiver/dryer! Therefore you want a HIGH QUALITY hose!

[pachiwall]

Still waiting for NOS hose. In the meantime, i made a grommet out of an old oil filler cap.DSCF8797.JPGDSCF8798.JPG didn't sit as flush as I wanted. DSCF8801.JPG But I padded the other hose and spray foamed. DSCF8804.JPG I added a 5/16" trans cooler hose so I can feed power to the fuse block I added. Soldered a piece of 14 gauge solid wire to bridge the input side. then twisted it to the former alt wire fed through the 5'16 hose.DSCF8805.JPG Soldered and insulated. Added a couple of circuits.DSCF8808.JPG

[pachiwall]

Still adding wiring. Fused 12ga hot goes around front of battery.DSCF8815.JPG Zip stripped to the wiring harness tied to the radiator support. DSCF8816.JPG Then under the passenger fender to the firewall. DSCF8817.JPG Power is the red wire that attaches to the green wire on the relay socket. Terminal #30. A blue wire comes from the evaporator box that triggers terminal #86 of the relay. Terminal #85 is ground...#87 is positive power to clutch.
My NOS MOPAR A/C hose came in!DSCF8810.JPGDSCF8809.JPG Unfortunately...it ALMOST fit. DSCF8818.JPG DSCF8819.JPG I decided to heat and bend it...but first, cut open a junkyard hose to see what is inside that can!DSCF8820.JPG A nice pinpoint of blue flame from the tiny Craftsman Map/O2 torch did the trick!DSCF8821.JPG

[pachiwall]

Once the hose was fitted, I removed the other seals and installed the gaskets. Now I was getting excited, and hooking up the vacuum pump. Then it starts to sprinkle! Which developed into a long slow steady rain. I just ran the vacuum for about 20 minutes and gave up.
Now its time to get back at it'.

[pachiwall]

OK! No good days to test air! In other words...it has either rained, or the days have been cool and low humidity! however, I did get the system working! Seems to work good, but NOT really working against heat and humidity! I charged it with 2, 11oz cans. I have a third can...but I don't want to put it in, if it is already full! I want to put a fan shroud, and some strips of rubber to force ALL air to go through the condenser. And, maybe an electric fan to force more air through the condensor1