Issues with a friends dr dude PLease help

[Stinger357]

I have a 1993 Gottlieb Doctor Dude, and for the life of me cant figure this out. There was a batter holder in the cabinet no wired up to anythint. There is also a battery holder on the MPU so I put 3 AA in the battery holder and no go!!! Everytime I turn it on it revert back to factor settings. I also noticed the build in battery storage wires are not connect to anything. How would I go about getting battery to work on this machine...PLEASE HELP!

Also the left side of the bulbs are out...I have tested the bulbs and they are good. Is there a fuse I am missing to make them light up?

[Stinger357]

Also the AA battery's and the holder are extrememly hot!

[DrDark]

If the battery holder or batteries are hot, you have a short somewhere.
Remove the batteries until you have corrected the short.
Photos would help.

[Stinger357]

Come to find out the red wire is the negative and black wire is positive, go figure..so once I hooked that up it worked like a charm!

[drcrippen324]

thats a bally Dr Dude stinger if you got a row of bulbs out and it isnt the bulbs its RTFM time the manual downloadable from ipd will tell you what row / colum the bulbs are attached to start with the fuse for that set then work back if it is all the bulbs in that row it will usualy be the fuse the triack or the negative cable

[pinball wizard]

it sounds like you fixed the battery problem .like doc said ,download the manual. the problem is most often a bad driver transistor .

[Stinger357]

OK Another issue the setting button. I can go through AU, AD, something else for adjusting it...and I can scroll through all the settings but can't seem to change them, the closest button to me the settings button will not operate, it wont change a thing. Could it be a bad solder? The middle works to go back and forth through the settings...but that darn settings accept button will not function...any help!

[Stinger357]

Well setting button has been resolved...you use the start button to change yes/no prompts...I wish someone with a bally could have told me that. Also the fuses I RTFM and it did no good!!! It doesnt tell me the fuse and where it is located for the left side GI lights...I tested 10 fuses and all seem to be good. I am going to test the other 10 to make sure its not a fuse. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot better.

[drcrippen324]

yup bally and williams use the start button for adjustments

if it is gi that isnt working then it wont be on a triack you will probebly find its the gi connector that has burnt out eaither the conector itself or the pins in the bord its a common fault as the conectors wernt man enough realy to be left on 12 hours a day 7 days a week ect ect will check the manual give oyu the fuse number and the gi conection number you need to trace the schematics back when we say rtfm they wont just hand it on a plate as in fuse 1 controles ... in a table as the 1 fuse can controle up to 4 or 5 colums or rows its a case of tracing the scematic and finding wich fuse it ends up at anoying at time i know iv been there

[Stinger357]

But what would cause the fuses to out just like that...I mean first the left side backglass now the right side has gone out...wtf

[drcrippen324]

are you talking about the back box lamps being out or the GI lamps Gi lamps are what sit under the plastics on the playfield is te only lighting you have now the flashing lights and inserts when playing the game if so from the schematics i got (they arnt to clear bad copy) it looks like conector J14 is the GI conector hope this helps

[Stinger357]

Bad connector...it looks burnt..when we wiggle the wires the lights come on...so its a bad connector.

[new in town]

I had the same issues on my Indiana Jones Pinn. The Plug for the Back Board lights fell "ill" to the current draw and virtually Melted the Solder connections for it on the PC Board.

[rubberratt]

Bad connector...it looks burnt..when we wiggle the wires the lights come on...so its a bad connector.

Great Plains Electronics sells the Terminal blocks and the IDC connectors you need to rebuild the connector.

MAKE SURE you replace both... or they'll burn up again

[Stinger357]

My Tech came out and replaced the entire module even the stuff on the board..plus the connector...so it works perfect now...thanks for everyone's advice.

[fast toys]

Bad connector...it looks burnt..when we wiggle the wires the lights come on...so its a bad connector.

An easy way to keep from getting connector burn from the GI is to switch to #47 bulbs or LEDs. The #44 bulbs draw .25 amps and the #47 only draw .15 amps which is like 40% less and only a bit dimmer. The #47s also run cooler so they are less likely to warp plastics.

A box 10 #47 bulbs from Pinballlife are only $1.00!!!

All of my machines have had the all #44s switched to #47s and so far 3 of my machines have full LEDs, GI included.

I am currently getting the GI done in my Starship Troopers but it is turning into a FULL shop job as all the plastics and ramps need to be removed to get to the bulbs.

Bulb holders on Sega machines are stapled to the playfield not screwed on like Williams machines.

[Ken Layton]

I just fixed a Dr. Dude that had most of the general illumination bulbs off. I had to replace THREE burnt connectors (the male and female halves) on the interface board. I also discovered the 4 pin connector for the yellow and yellow-white wires at the transformer burnt to a crisp and had to replace that too. This machine is going to get some LED's installed to reduce the load on the connectors to keep this from happening again.