I BOUGHT A PACHISLO! - need help!

[wrkey]

I'll get some better pics and post them.. but probably not till Friday. I'm done for the night as others are sleeping and it's loud! I did muffle it some with paper towels and painters tape.

As for the odds... I figured that out. I remembered someone else's thead about turning the key to the left. Well, I look at the door and the key set up and sure enough if you turn the key to left it will change the odds when in programming mode! Whoo hoo!

Problem is I found that just in time to turn it off so we can sleep.

Thanks again to all who helped. This certainly demonstrates the power of this website. I got a machine today and through the quick, accurate and experienced answered I had it up, running and playing well with in hours! AWESOME!

[Moparformances]

[FTKServices]

Good job.. glad to see you solved most of the issues.

[birdbrain]

Mopar: the act of converting or even possessing a modern machine that takes actual coinage is a FELONY in most states.Hell even possessing an unconverted pachislot is a criminal act in your state!

[wrkey]

Since his first post, I've had some discussion with MoPar and we are both aware of the implications of the $$$ acceptance of a slot machine. There is no intention for the thread to be turned into a discussion of $$ acceptance capabilities.

We are both very aware of PachiTalk's stance on $$ acceptance machine and will honor those restrictions. As for my machine, in hindsight I probably shouldn't have even mentioned this issue as I will mostly likely have it accepting tokens in short order.

Thanks for the reminder BB!

[wrkey]

Ok so I got some more photos including labels and such. Can someone translate?

The round yellow is on the inside of the door behind the belly glass. The 'inspection sticker' (looks curled and has GK initials) is stuck on the inside cabinet on the right hand wall at the top. The photo of the one control board was the only board with a label that was easily photographed. The two labels stuck to the colorful parts are the ones shown on the lower left and right hand of the belly glass.

My machine does not appear to have a light in the belly. Most of the lights appear to be LED with the exception of the flashers across the top and the reel lights.

I can't find a manufacture's name. Can someone tell me who made this machine? I'm also curious about dating it. There was some discussion about the suspected age of the machine would preclude it from having LED's but most of the lights are.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

[luckydog]

the other model called pegasus was made by Luster, the case looked like Kiwame.

[jlb9132]

I have older machine to set odds you turn key then push reset button on power surply box 1thru 6 times to change odds then push handle three times turn key back

[alstonj1]

its a mid 90's machine , leds were used on earlier machines for line lights and accents . I had a miracle machine that had them as well . who ever said it predated leds was mistaken allot of older vintage machines had them also my super bunny girls machine didn't come with a belly glass light either it is a mid 90's machine as well and doesn't have reel lights either the light comes from lights mounted on the door .I prefer these machines they don't give any idea of whats to come like the animations on the vedio machines ( the match blows out and i havent even hit the second button and i already know i lost ) they give the illusion that you really are in control even though you arent...

[Youngjedi]

I'm surprised there isn't a belly light.

[MrGneiss]

Maybe since the parlors were so well lit for the pachinkos they never thought about it??

[alstonj1]

you can how ever add a belly light to your machine ,my super bunny girls now has one and it matches perfectly the light in the upper glass . bought the fixture at home depot and tapped the 120 coming into the machine to power it .

[wrkey]

Hey LD,

Thanks for the advice. Here's what I've found. Setting the odds is done with the 'front door' key by having it in programming mode and turning the key to the left. Since I don't have the key, I manipulate the 'slider bar' by hand and that works. To 'save the changes' I hold down the 'Play With Credit' button and the spin joystick for a short duration and then turn the key back. This last part is also the reset process.

As for the lights, I've managed to get the 'bonus' round a couple of times by raising the odds and they did not light. I haven't dug too deep into it yet and I may need to do some 'electronic sniffing' with my multi-meter to see where It's off.

As for switches on the boards, I have not been able to find any yet. That is not to say they are not there, as many of the boards are mounted with the components facing a 'wall' and I can't see if there is a switch on them. I traced the speaker wire back the the connection point which is on a board that then was traced back to a connection to a smaller component board which I assume is the audio board. In the attached photo (sorry for the fuzziness) the board it connects to is the long board below the bright white guard which has the lights and button connections for the stuff under the reels. The speaker connections go straight up on the left to the square connection and then to the aforementioned component board that is hidden behind the black guard. I've removed the black guard and can see no switches.

The top long board has all the lights that I mentioned earlier as not working. You can make out the shape of the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 from right to left (your looking from behind) which I have yet to see activiated. I believe when you are in the 'Big Game' there are four play sequences and these numbers should be lighting in sequence as the Big Game plays out... this is just my WAG as to how it is supposed to work. The wires at the top connect the 'flashing bulbs' at the top of the machine that I am also guessing is supposed to flash during the Big Game. In the center of this board is a circle of lights that flash in sequence for what I figure must be decorations but may act different should the 'big game' be started.

I will spend more time pulling boards, reseating them and looking for switches and/or connections that need to cleaned in an effort to resolve my lighting problem. It may be there is no volume control... who knows? I can live with excessive volume, but I really want to the lights to work as they should.

I also pulled the main control board last night and cleaned the edge connectioners with the old "IT Pencil Eraser" method. That made no difference. Now that I think about it, there are 3 fuses in the power supply and I haven't checked any of them... I guess I'll do that as soon as I get home! One of these may be associated with the lights and be fried. I have found two fuses, one on a small board at the top right inside the cabinet and one on the audio board, both in good shape.

I'm no electronics wiz, so this stuff is taking some time to get it figured out. Thanks for your help!

[alstonj1]

ok heres the deal this machine seems to be a close relitive of the miracle machine i use to own that ftk has now . the connection between the boards on the door that circle the reel window (they plug end to end with each other ) may need cleaning they oxidize and dont make up well be carefull taking them apart the pins inside maybe broken and not making contact as well flex the connector a little and most likely the leds will come back on .(radio shack sells a contact cleaner that deoxidizes connections its a tad expensive and comes in a pen applicator it works well for plugs like these ) as for the voltage i suggest you put a meter across one thats on should be around 1.5 v if i remember my electronics classes of that period. if you trace the lands back they should have a dropping resistor in line with each . also if i remember the system ran its lights at 12 volt on that machine i could be mistaken that might have been the american richman machine i had .just put a meter across a lit bulb and check the voltage .

[wrkey]

Jeff,

Thanks for the advice and information. I'm still having the lighting issue. Here's what I did last night that turned into an exercise in futility.

I pulled the reels out and set them aside. I pulled the main board off the side 'holding slot'. I think pulled the main board housing and then the mouning brackets for the main board exposing the edge connectors for the main board. I then pulled the bottom light/button board that was located on the door under the window that the ribbon cable was connected to. With all the components 'accessible' I put my multi-meter to work.

In this effort I concentrated on the 'stop light' for the third reel which does not function. I found continuity back to the 'dropping resistor' and that resistor's testing proved it to be within the same range as the other LED resistors. I then found continuity back to the edge connection of that board and determined the 'connection number' for it. I then checked and found continuity through the cable end to end. I also validated that the edge connectors were clean and 'raised' enough to make a good connection to the main board. From the edge connection on the main board I was able to trace the circuit back to a chip... which is where my knowledge of electronics begin to fail.

I plugged it all back in and did a few more test. When the 3rd reel stop light is supposed to be lit, there is no voltage to the high side of dropping resistor. If put a jumper wire between one of the other currently lit stop lights, that LED functions. With the continuity checks and this last 'forced power' check it seems to be the problem lies with in the main board. I then played the machine for some time and it is enjoyable but I would rather have everything lighting as it should. Oh, the LED for the very top payout 'diagonal' is also non-functioning and it appears to have the same characteristics as the stop LED does.

Next oppertunity I get, I will trace the broken LED circuits back to the first edge connector and see if there is some common component (that first chip for example) that may be the culprit.

So, here's the questions: Anyone every done this level of diagnostics and/or component level repair? Does anyone have a Pegasus that has other issues that they could sell me a main board out of? I'm wondering if that first chip that the circuit traces back is it a multiple 'SCR' chip that allows for a single power in and multiple points out to control the LEDs. I'm thinking that when I trace all the non-working LED's back they may all lead to the same chip... thus the logic in my thought process. Is this a correction assumption? How common on these chips and has anyone purchased them before?

The only slot machine seller close to me stated last weekend that they don't do component replacement, but instead just swap out the whole board or part out the machine. When I looked at the stickers on the main board, one has the identifiers of "412 (A)" so what I may have is the very first version of the Pegasus machine and thus my desire to keep it original if possible.

Ok, enough of this grovel novel. If anyone could help I would greatly appreciated it!

[alstonj1]

sounds like your doing a great job at diagnosing the machine . now heres the bad part chances of you finding a replacement board are as good as million god being traded for a spin luck machine (theres a chance not very good but its gonna cost allot of $ and time.) tracing it back to the main board is your best option and most are driven by simple driver chips you might find that a land is burnt or broken on the main board and not getting power or the transistor is shot and needs replacement .either way your doing a great job .what ever you do dont jump out the dropping resistor or youll let the blue smoke out . keep up the good work . keep tracing the circuits back and mark the drivers and chips you may find they are all feed off the same positive feed from another chip and so on and so on .If its a machine you like its a labor of love to find the answer cause you wouldnt find any schematics on these machines and reverse engineering is the only answer .Good part is the older boards are much simpler to work on .

[wrkey]

Thanks for the encouragement Jeff. I'm hoping that what you are describing is the issue; one component that is common enough I can swap it out.

We will see.

[alstonj1]

90% of the time it comes back to dirty connections and bad pins due to age ,storage conditions and abuse (alot of 90's machines were used in arcades for years )

[wrkey]

On this machine I see the lighting problem in two major groups. One is the jack pot advertisement light show and the other is the basic operational lights. I've decided to try and tackle the operational light problems first.
There are the lights not working, the 'Hit Light', the top diaganol win row indicactor and the 3 stop reel light. All these circuits feed back with no other components other than the LED and the dropping resistor to the main mother board through a 'ribbon cable'. The connections are clean and good on either end of the cable. The 'top win row indicator' circuit connects on a pin on a particular IC chip and the other two to another IC chip but different from the first. I looked up the chip's datasheet, it's a Toshiba TD62003AP' and it appears that it's like a 'Silicon Control Relay' but the datasheet called them Darlington NPN circuits.. what ever that means. But there is a 'one to one' relationship between the input and output pins on the chip, so I should be able to determine if I have 'input voltage' or not which would be the first step in diagnosing the chip.

In order to test the main board, I need to pull it from the machine, has anyone ever done this? Pull the components out of the machine and hooked them up on workbench to trouble shoot it? Any advice (like don't do it)?

Thanks,

Rusty