Somewhat Comprehensive Asembly Guide for Matthew818ply's ball Lifter

[lordnikon]

So I've picked up and put down this project a lot over the past year or so, and finally got around to finally assembling matthew818ply's 3d printed ball lifter.
I figured I may post some assembly pictures as well as circuitry I used to drive the motor, and hopefully others find this information useful.
Bill of Materials:

• 3d printed parts
• 7x M5 x 10mm set screws
• 1x 3/16 machine key Key
• 4x M4 x 8mm Flat Machine Screw
• 1x NPN proximity sensor
• 1x 12VDC 65RPM Motor
• 1x Relay module
• 1x 12V 2A dc power supply

Motor driver assembly:
I opted to make my own motor driver (instead of purchasing the one that matthew818ply sells) as I already had some of the part required to do so on my own.
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I used an NPN proximity sensor (the original design uses a PNP proximity sensor). The relay is configurable to be either active low or active high, because I am using an NPN sensor the logic will be active low. 12V is applied to the common terminal of the relay, and the motor positive lead is connected to the normally open terminal. Once there is a pachinko ball in close enough proximity to the sensor, the NPN switch closes, triggering the relay and activating the motor to turn the gear and move the balls from the hopper.
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Assembly of Hopper:
The first step of assembly is to take the bottom plate and attach the motor, this is done with the 4x M4x8MM machine screws. You can either insert the proximity sensor at this stage or wait until later (the proximity sensor slides freely in and out of the hole until the set screw is added at the end of assembly.
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Next, you have to insert the two halves of the bottom tube, as well as the rod that enters in from the outside of the hopper and should be inserted to the point of almost touching the gear, but not making contact. This is to ensure that the balls can make their way into the tube easily and not get jammed up. I used a piece of a metal coat hanger for this, i've also read of people using one of the conductors from a piece of 12/2 romex. The gear is also added at this step (at least I found it easiest) this is where your machine key is inserted into the gear, lined up with the flat portion of the motors shaft.
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The center and top plates are then placed on top of the bottom plate. I used some bolts with washers and nuts against the bottom piece to hold the assembly together.
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I then inserted one of the set screws into the hole above the proximity sensor, pressed the sensor all the way into the hole and screwed it in to hold it from moving. There are also two holes on the bottom plate for set screws that help prevent the bottom tube from moving, I inserted those at this step as well.
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To connect the top elbow to the hopper, you'll need to use 1/2in pex tubing. I was able to get 5ft for only a few dollars at my local hardware store. For the top elbow, I secured it to the back of my cabinet with a 3/4in pipe strap, also from my local hardware store. Both the bottom and top printed parts use 2x set screw to hold the tubing from slipping out.
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I purchased one of daverob's CR emulators and built a cabinet to wall mount my machine in my bar, running the outlet to a switch so I don't have to open and close the machine anytime I want to turn it on/off. I hope this post is able to help someone looking to do something similar and if I missed something I'll be sure to update the post!
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