Stirrin' up a Bee Hive

[musky]

Well, now that we have had our little "diversion" and everyone knows my name (Zetareticuli1), I think it is time we got back to the project. By the way, I have plenty of pennies close at hand just in case I get stung.
Most of you know how I feel about using pots to control the sound level on these things, so it's not going to suprise anyone to find out I've installed a stereo L-Pad to adjust the volume level below that of a jet taking off. Hey, $7 for a stereo 8 ohm, 15 watt L-Pad ain't bad. I've included a photo of it with a wiring diagram showing how it's connected.

The other photo I've included is the schematic for the Chance Button on the Lumina frame. I'm throwing this out to the techies out there. Since Arby is being so kind as to send me an optical switch that may work, I won't be needing to come up with an alternitive method to duplicate it's function (keeping fingers crossed). But.....just in case.....I am open to suggestions and how one may do this other then an optical switch. Here is what I know about the Chance Button.:
Pin 1 is at 12 volts
Pin 2 is the return from the LED source for the Optical switch
Pin 3 is the return from the LED that lights the switch up when active
Pin 4 is the return from the phototransistor

The chance button on the frame is wired directly to that 4 pin pink connector on the cell I showed you earlier. With a resistor and LED wired across pins 1 and 2, the led stays lit, as it would in the switch. with the same setup between 1 and 3, the LED lights up during the cells post test then goes off. It starts flashing when the chance function is called during game play. Pins 1 and 4 make up the "switch" which goes open when the button is pressed and the light beam is broken between the LED and phototransistor. I have tried to connect other optical switches that were simular but not identical to the connector but I could not get it to work. There is some voodoo afoot me thinks in the cell logic. Anyway, I'm open to suggestions.