Pachislo newbie with a power supply question

[solka3o]

Hi! I'm new to the world of pachislos, although I've owned a few pachinkos and some old-skool electromech pinballs in the past. I also have prior experience with electronic servicing, although I haven't made my living at that in a long time now. (Throwaway society...nobody pays for repairs anymore.) I found this site while doing some research, and this was the forum I was directed to for tech questions. So here goes...

I splurged $60 (too much?) on a Taiyp "Hello Santa Machinegun" pachislo at a local flea market because it just seemed like a way too strange concept to pass up. I've also wanted a slot machine for a while. It was in good shape and complete, and the seller said it was working except that the power cord connector was broken off the power supply board. No problem, I just put new connectors on the board and cord. Now here's the issue: The unit had a big "100 volt" sticker on the supply, but I've worked on a lot of switch-mode supplies and my experience is that if the input caps are rated high enough, the supply will work properly at the higher US mains input. But this one bit me. I flipped on the power swich and the output LEDs lit up, but then a regulator IC blew up. The board was on my bench, not in the machine, thankfully.

Admittedly I am quite rusty these days on servicing, and have no prior experience with pachislos. The few AC operated pachinkos I've worked on were 24V units. So here are my questions for those with more experience:

1) Am I way off base in thinking the SMPS board would work at 120VAC input without further modification? This is an early-2000s machine, so maybe the design isn't as wide-range as newer ones?
2) Should I just replace the IC that went kaboom and chance that it was a case of sitting unused for who knows how long? I've had other parts (usually capacitors) fail due to age on startup in the past.
3) Should I replace the IC and get a step-down transformer to feed the supply the 100V it expects?
4) Shoukl I take this as a sign I don't really need a new dust-catcher and just sell it off in pieces?

Thanks for welcoming me aboard, and for any suggestions!

[takethecastle57]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QFAWb1...F0aWNzIA%3D%3D

[MrGneiss]

100v slots usually seem to work just fine on 120, but some people still like to use a step down transformer..

Unlike pachinkos which are all 24V, some pachislos are 24V and some are 100V..


Also I know nothing about electrics, so you probably shouldn't listen to me!!

[bjab]

Can you post some pictures so we can see it ? Why not replace the IC with a new one that matches it and see if it happens again ?
Post a picture of that IC. Yes it could be due to old age or bad connection. I assume that it is the original transformer ?

[solka3o]

Thanks for the link to the youtube video. Troubleshooting the supply isn't really my issue, though. My background is in service, so it's not so much figuring out "what" is wrong, but "why". I was hoping that maybe someone who's worked on these things could shed light on why I had fireworks when I was sure things should not have gone that way. While SMPS servicing is nothing new for me, using them in pachislo machines is.

Anyhoo, a little more checking shows nothing else obviously wrong. So I've ordered a couple of replacements from an ebay seller. The part is a Sharp PQ1CF1 chopper regulator. This is an obsolete piece not stocked at my go-to sources of Digi-Key and Mouser. They have a different device that has poorer ratings, so I'm not going to go that way. As a rule I don't like ordering ebay parts because there are so many bogus parts from China out there, but these are from a US source so maybe they're genuine. We'll see.

My plan is to pop a replacement in when they show up, and then run the voltage up slowly with my variac to 100 V and see what happens. (In retrospect, I should have done that before, but I was impatient and sure of myself.) I'll report back, and will also post photos of the supply as well as the machine in general. I'll need help translating all the Japanese on it! Thanks again!

[bjab]

My plan is to pop a replacement in when they show up, and then run the voltage up slowl

I was going to suggest this to but didn't know if you had one of those. Keep us posted and yes...pictures.

[solka3o]

Since I have this apart now waiting for the new IC, here are a few pictures. I don't have a real camera, just my phone, so forgive the photography!

Here's a look at the innards with a view of the exploded IC (hiding behind the tall capacitor):
inside.jpg

A better look at the dead chip after removal:
kaboom.jpg

Backside, showing the part number and voltage labels (and the new power cord connector):
labels.jpg

Finally, a view of the case. I'm sure this info is already on the site somewhere, but since you're here, can I have a translation of the Japanese? (Domo arigato!)
legends.jpg

[bjab]

translated.jpg

[bjab]

Is there a component missing at C10 ?
There's alot of flux buildup there and what looks like broken off legs coming up out of the solder.
Hard to tell from your picture.

Also is that a CB or Ham radio in the background ? Looks like a microphone
laying there with a black coiled cord.

[solka3o]

Good eye! It's a Kenwood TS-440S. I'm KA3O. (I thought I'd leave that in the picture and drag some more hams out into the open. I see other members here with callsigns in their names.)

If I see what you're talking about (near the two toroids?), you might be referring to CN6. That's the back side of a two-pin connector that gets something plugged in when the machine goes back together. I forget where it goes right now, but all the cables can only go one place. And yes, there is quite a lot of flux around all the connector pins. Looks like the board didn't get a cleaning after they were installed, but it will get a good wash when I get the repair done,

[Drunkenclam]

it fatal to leave any detail in photos here. Be it audio, animal or auto

So one will spot it

[bjab]

Yeah CN6 was what I meant.
C10 is a small capacitor that goes bad on alot of the stop reel boards, alot of the time.
Ok I was also thinking a componet might be on the back side of the board too, but thoguht I'd ask.
My brain saw CN6 but I wrote the other...sorry.
So that's your QSL card number ? I use to talk skip on my Cobra 142 SSB. hahaha

[solka3o]

I obvioudly have a lot to learn about pachislos. These things have been on my list of "toys to have" for a while, but they're totally new. I've worked on pachinkos and pinballs, but now that people are tossing around terms like "stop board" I see I need some basics. Once (if?) I get mine working I will have something to learn on. But meanwhile, is there any kind of literature with really basic stuff for newbies like me? Like typical parts used and how they connect? Routine adjustments and maintenance? Common problems? I've found info like this for pachinkos, and pins are all basically the same under the hood. I love fixing things, but it's easier with some of the basics to build on. Thanks to you all! (And where's my translation help? It's really rough when you can't read the labels!)

[Drunkenclam]

The stop board is a normally a medium sized board with a 1A fuse in it. When it fails the reel buttons stop working. Normally caused by failing capacitors.

[solka3o]

Still waiting for the replacement IC. Insane shipping time for two little parts supposedly in CA, but whatever...

Meanwhile, I was introduced to Google Translate's image feature. I gave it the picture of the power supply case, and now I know what it says!
translated.jpg

[bjab]

Who did you order the parts from ?

[solka3o]

Who did you order the parts from ?

Some seller on ebay, supposed to have the parts in California. I try to avoid buying parts on ebay since a lot are bogus, especially those coming from China. But the price was reasonable and I'm not really in any rush. Tracking says it should arrive tomorrow.