Freeing stuck parts on a vintage with WD-40?

[sethbramwell]

Just wondering, the action on a few parts on my new vintage (my first) are kinda slow and gummy... When I need to free mechanical parts I typically use WD-40. Just wondering if this would be appropriate for a Vintage pachi or if it would be damaging.

If WD-40 would not be a good choice, does anyone have any suggestions on what would be better?

Thanks!

[Card Shark]

I try not to use any lubricants as they tend to cause the "gumming" up issue over time. I try to make sure everything is clean and dry. Posting some pictures of the problem areas might help with suggestions.

[JACKSJE4]

NEVER use lubricants of any kind on your Pachinko machine!!

As Card Shark mentions, it will lead to more gumming because the lubricants will attract dust and grime. The BEST way to fix sticky parts is to disassemble them and clean them using either a plastic polish for plastic, or a metal cleaner for metal. I have been reconditioning and restoring vintage machines for several years now, and I find they operate like a Swiss watch when all of the cams, levers and pivot points are freshly cleaned and lubricant free.

Check out this thread for more tips on cleaning your vintage machine, as well as what products to use: http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...o-machine.html

Thanks for checking before spraying. You saved yourself some additional work.

jeff

[hanabi]

I'm not a vintage expert, but I think the members here would say a big no-no to using WD40

here's a link to a useful sticky on cleaning pachinkos, there is advice and suggestions for products to use that are 'pachinko friendly'

Tips for Cleaning Your Vintage Pachinko Machine

[sethbramwell]

Thanks everyone. I took a look at the cleaning thread before, but it seemed to cover all the cleaning products and not the sticky issue. I will post pics when I get home, bu the specific issue is with the jack pot seesaw and the little spring loaded button that frees it. Just a bit hard to move. Also, is that seesaw supposed to have a ball permanently in it? Is there a way to change the ball out? The one in mine is very rusted...

[JACKSJE4]

There are typically two pachinko balls in the jackpot see-saw, and some of the see-saws have very small screws that hold the bottom on, while others are permanently fixed together. If you have a see-saw with the screws, then yes - you can replace the balls.

When you remove the see saw to replace the balls, you should also then be able to remove the reset pin and clean it.

As for products to use, I prefer Blue Magic metal polish for metal parts and GelGloss plastic/fiberglass polish for cleaning plastic parts. Both are available at most auto parts stores.

[mxfaiman]

The only type of lubricant I use is a high end silicon spray. And with that stuff I still try to use as little as possible.NEVER USE WD-40!!

[luckydog]

has anyonne tried graphite for lubricant??

[JACKSJE4]

has anyonne tried graphite for lubricant??

Shouldn't be needed at all if the parts are clean and polished.

[alancurry]

A little twist on Friends Don't Let Friends... Forum Members Don't Let Forum Members use WD40.

[emmadog]

get some 0000 steel wool and/or very fine sand paper to clean the various brass posts and metal pivot points throughout your machine. i do use lube but it goes on as a spray and then dries. since it's initially a liquid it gets in tight spaces but i only use this on metal to metal friction areas such as the frame and window lock components on arrangeball machines. i can't think of any metal to metal areas on the typical vintage however.

[pachiwall]

WD40 is a petroleum product, over time it will destroy plastic parts. When I was young, I used it to lubricate the crankshaft of my "visible V8" model engine. Within weeks the plastic broke into pieces, and would crumble between your fingers!

[sethbramwell]

Yikes! I'm very glad I asked before spraying. Thanks!

[mxfaiman]

has anyonne tried graphite for lubricant??

Haven't tried that. Though the only reason why you would want to stay away from it is all the fine powder will get tracked through the machine.

[takethecastle57]

Howdy and Welcome to the site that Never Closes

Synthetic steel wool is better http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Stee...9&sr=8-1-fkmr2 and last alot longer and no steel wool splinters

Next , For Polishing I recommend the Miracle Cloth

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6x9-sz-MIRAC...item53ec2e2142

Its dry and Non-toxic and even leaves a protective coating on the object that you are polishing .

[sethbramwell]

Thanks again for all the advice, everyone! I opened up the back panels last night and washed out the tracks using some simple green and a lot of q-tips... wow, they were blackened. Everything looks a lot better now and the jackpot is paying out properly. Amazing how well it all works being just a simple gravity feed system reliant on levers and balances :-) I also scrubbed the plastic panels separately with soapy water and dried them thoroughly before reattaching.

I was able to remove the jackpot seesaw piece (it was screwed in) but I still seem unable to remove the ball. There is a metal strip that seems sealed to it that holds the balls in. Any thoughts?

[JACKSJE4]

Amazing how well it all works being just a simple gravity feed system reliant on levers and balances :-)

Ahh... I think you have uncovered one of the greatest attractions of the vintage machines!! I have reconditioned/restored over 50 of these amazing machines and I am still fascinated by the design, engineering and creativity the Japanese implemented into them.

I was able to remove the jackpot seesaw piece (it was screwed in) but I still seem unable to remove the ball. There is a metal strip that seems sealed to it that holds the balls in. Any thoughts?

I have never been successful with disassembling the sealed version of the jackpot see-saw. You might try soaking it in a solution of hot water and CLR (available at most grocery stores) to remove the rust, then dry it out using a hair dryer. Otherwise, you might need to find an identical replacement that is in better condition.

[sethbramwell]

Ahh... I think you have uncovered one of the greatest attractions of the vintage machines!! I have reconditioned/restored over 50 of these amazing machines and I am still fascinated by the design, engineering and creativity the Japanese implemented into them.

Really speaks to their ingenuity! (No wonder the best stuff seems to come from there...)

Thanks for the tip, I'll try the clr. Really, I'm not sure how much I need to worry, as the ball is sealed and not in contact with others, but i am concerned about rust dust. Some places on the machine have some swelling in the wood, it's interesting there is no water damage on the cell or in the other parts of the tracks.

[pachiwall]

Is the seesaw brass, or plastic? Post some pics so we can see what the problem is.

[mxfaiman]

Is the seesaw brass, or plastic? Post some pics so we can see what the problem is.

If it has a plastic housing don't use pure CLR. You can still use CLR on plastic but you must dilute it with water. (about 4 or 5 parts water to 1 part CLR)

If it is all metal you can use pure CLR. But it may not be in that bad of shape. I can get most of them pretty clean with just a long soak (about a day or 2) in some simple green.