How do I wire my machine

[ssgtmc]

I have a 1975 Sankyo Frog machine. I am not a wiring guy and could use some help. Here is what I have. There are 3 wires. Red White and Black. The red wire has an inline fuse. All the wiring is to the bulbs (black and red). The black and white wires were "tapped" into and split off to the switch that triggers the low ball light. Not sure which one goes to what terminal. 1 terminal is marked "com" and the other "nc". I'm powering it off a battery. Black i'm assuming goes to the neg terminal. Do the red and white go to positive? Any help would be great. Thank you in advance.

[hanabi]

Hello I haven't personally wired any vintages myself,

But one of these links may be of use to you, they were kindly collated by 'mudfud' one of our members

WIRING and ELECTRICAL

electrical videos, 70's pachinkos chewy videos on vintage wiring

sanyo comet II wiring from scratch, video wiring from scratch

Need help with wiring. Photos included

Clueless With Wiring

New Guy Here - Wiring and Restoring a Vintage Pachinko

extra wires on a sophia B wiring mess from someone else's work

and welcome to pachiTalk!!

[ssgtmc]

Thanks. I'll look these over

[JACKSJE4]

Welcome to PachiTalk!! We are thrilled to have you as a member of our forum!!

Here is another link that you might find helpful. It has several wiring diagrams in it that will show you how the wires should go. http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/pach...-nishijin.html

The wiring is very simple on these machines, and I use a 9 volt battery to power all of the lights. I run a red wire from the "+" post on the battery to the threaded part of the bulb, and I run a black wire from the "-" post on the battery to the bottom/tip of the bulb. Now, route either one of those wires through the leaf switch and your wiring is complete. You can use the fuse block that came with the machine, but it is not necessary unless you plan to plug your machine into an outlet and a step-down converter. (I bypass it altogether for simplicity).

If you follow the wiring on your Pachinko with this in mind, you will see that the wires change colors as they go from one connection to the next, making it confusing. I prefer to replace all of the wiring with red and black as described above so that it is more simple for me to follow.

If you are still confused, or need more help, just post back and we will assist. Post photos of the part you are stuck on so that we can get a good idea of your situation.

Again, welcome to our community!! Please visit us daily and post often.

Jeff

[ssgtmc]

100_1143.jpg100_1144.jpg100_1145.jpg There were wires going from the white and black to the hopper switch. Fell apart when I touched it. I take it red to the pos on the battery and the black to neg. where does the white one go? Thanks for the reply Jeff.

[owennewton]

the third wire is a signal lead for low balls at the parlors and is not used for home setups

[Moparformances]

yepper should be poer to the red and black wires...

low ball is a micro switch but the jackpot is a lief switch.. make sure the little contact points are clean on the lief switch

and of course

Welcome to Pachitalk

[SteveFury]

----> WELCOME TO PACHITALK! <----

The "Com" is the common terminal on your hopper switch and the "NC" means Normally closed.
When the actuator is NOT being depressed the NC will be connected to COM.
When the actuator IS being depressed it will not be connected to COM.
The animation I made for you below should show it a little better.

If it were my machine I wouldn't try to figure out another person's jumbled mess of capped and spliced wires, I would remove all of them and redo it. I didn't see the original power block in your photos, and if my machine was missing I'd go to Radio Shack or aother electronics store and buy a spring loaded speaker terminal like this:
speaker terminals.jpg

I would mount it on the upper Right rear corner of the machine where the original would have been for an easy connection to power.

I would buy a roll of red and black 18 or 24 gauge wire and wire it as follows:
All Off.gifI'm guessing your machine has two jackpot lights, I'm not sure. If it does then wire them up like that.

You can ignore the "NO" connection on the switch in my diagram because apparently yours does not have one.
I created this animation for you, so you can see the electronic path and figure out how it works:
Untitled-1.gif

Also, I would find a buddy who can solder these things together for you, especially the jackpot light switch.

[CarlW]

My recollection is that red is positive, WHITE is negative and black is not used on this machine... My advice is to try twisting the wires first and see if it works! I remember for sure that the wire with a fuse on it is the positive.

[ssgtmc]

Thanks Steve. I hooked up a lantern battery for testing and did get the jackpot light to light up (only 1 light). Your diagram was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you a million. Thoughts of using a power converter? Light is real dim off the battery.

[SteveFury]

Thoughts of using a power converter? Light is real dim off the battery.

I always keep the wall transformers to electronic devices I have, even though the device itself isn't around anymore. As a result I have about a dozen orphaned transformers of various sizes, you may or may not have a few laying around too. This is the device I am refering to, they come in various shapes:


They almost always have the output voltage and amperage printed or molded on them. If you do, you want to look for one that the output is 6 volts. They are usually unregulated so the actual voltage will be around 8 volts which is still OK. It will also say whether the output is in DC or AC. You will prefer to use DC because AC can shorten the life of your bulbs. The vast bulk of them are DC anyway. The current rating won't matter that much for running a single pachinko machine with only 2-3 bulbs.

If you don't have any of these devices laying around your house, you might look at a place like GoodWill, they usually have a basket full of them. Just look at the printing on it for the output of 5-6 volts.

The polarity of positive and negative makes no difference at all in these types of machines. You can reverse the polarity and it won't make any difference at all. Because of that, you can cut the barrel plug connector off of the end of the transformers wire and strip off a bit of the wire on both conductors and use that for your lamps and not worry about having them reversed.

I am running 2 pachinko machines from a 6v 3a(amp) wall transformer. 3a of current is way more than enough for this application but the lamps won't be struggling for current one to another and a bit higher current won't harm anything. I can add more machines to the same transformer in the future and not worry about overloading it. You'll typically find 250ma (1/4a) and 500ma (1/2a) transformers and they all will work fine in this type of machine. Just be sure it's rated at 5-6 volts. Some other common sizes are 12 and 24 volts. If you connect 24 volts to these lamps they will give a final farewell "Flash" and die.

If you wanted to wire more than one machine to a power supply they should be connected in parallel like this:

[mxfaiman]

Thoughts of using a power converter? Light is real dim off the battery.

You could hook up a 9v battery instead. Other wise go to a thrift store an buy some 9v wall-warts. (AC or DC don't matter) Just before hooking it up test to make sure it is putting out the right voltage. (I got a 9v one that was putting out 24v )

[ssgtmc]

The diagrams were GREAT Steve. Wired it up as shown and all the lights work, although I think I need a new bulb for the jackpot light. Real dim. I did wire it to a transformer 5v.

[mxfaiman]

The diagrams were GREAT Steve. Wired it up as shown and all the lights work, although I think I need a new bulb for the jackpot light. Real dim. I did wire it to a transformer 5v.

That is a tad too small, because I checked and under load (with the lights on) there is only about 6v circulating when using a 9v transformer. So if your using a 5v your only getting about 2v to each light so they will be very dim.

My suggestion got to a local thrift store and see what you can find. If the cost is more than $1.50 it may not be worth buying. (I shop at the goodwill and they usually want a $1 each. )

[SteveFury]

That is a tad too small, because I checked and under load (with the lights on) there is only about 6v circulating when using a 9v transformer. So if your using a 5v your only getting about 2v to each light so they will be very dim.

My suggestion got to a local thrift store and see what you can find. If the cost is more than $1.50 it may not be worth buying. (I shop at the goodwill and they usually want a $1 each. )

The trick here is to get a transformer with sufficient current.
These bulbs should draw about .2a apiece. If a single bulb is connected to 6v drawing .2a from a source supplying 6v @ .25a it will burn at full brightness and maintain the 6v. (The supply current is higher than the drawing current) If you run two bulbs at the same rating at the same time (Jackpot + Hopper empty) both bulbs together will be drawing .4a.

If the source current is the same @ .25a but the bulbs are drawing .4a, they will burn less bright and the voltage will drop about by half. The transformer will be rated 6v, but when you add the two bulbs you'll find the supply is only delivering a bit more than 3 volts. It's overloaded.

The solution would be to obtain a higher amp transformer.
In the same scenario, if the source was 6v @ .5a, the .4a load would not significantly effect the voltage.

Another example is that my own two pachinko machines contain a total of 6 bulbs. Assuming the current draw of each is .2a, I would need a 6v source supplying at least 1.2a (.2x6=1.2) Following that equasion will prevent the supply from overload and burn all bulbs at 100%, should they all be on at once.

[ssgtmc]

You guys make my head spin...but then again thats why I ask the questions. I'll look for the higher amp transformer. You guys have been a very big help. Thank you very much.

[SteveFury]

You guys make my head spin...but then again thats why I ask the questions. I'll look for the higher amp transformer. You guys have been a very big help. Thank you very much.

Is the problem with the power source or with the circuitry or bulb?
If the hopper out light works fine but the JP light is dim, It is reasonable to think the supply is probably ok.

What's left is the bulb or wiring.
A good way to test would be to exchange your hopper out light bulb with the jackpot light bulb. I'd put your JP light in your hopper out socket and your hopper out light in the jackpot socket and see if the problem follows the bulb or remains with the circuit.

If the probem follows the light bulb then maybe someone along the line replaced the bulb with a wrong type... one rated 12v for example will burn dimly under 5-6 volts.
If it remains with the circuit the problem will likely be in the socket, the switch or loose/poorly soldered connections.

[owennewton]

That is a tad too small, because I checked and under load (with the lights on) there is only about 6v circulating when using a 9v transformer. So if your using a 5v your only getting about 2v to each light so they will be very dim.

My suggestion got to a local thrift store and see what you can find. If the cost is more than $1.50 it may not be worth buying. (I shop at the goodwill and they usually want a $1 each. )

other than my goodwill where most are 2 bucks but sometimes they mark them as high as $15 for a wall wart!