How can I fix this

[Silverstreak02]

I cleaned the front ball tray in my ultrasonic and then applied some trim restorer. It has a burn mark and various shades of blue from fading or whatever. How can I get rid of the burn mark and the mismatched colors?

[Wayne-Ooo]

Well, it's not as bad as some I've seen.

The only way I know to get a uniform color, is to sand the entire piece. I use a SOS pad and water for sanding. This keeps the scratching down to a bare minimum.

But, be prepared for a time consuming project but, you will get it all the same color. Sometimes I use a 800 grit wet sandpaper for tougher spots, first. Like that burn mark.

Even sometimes I use a razor blade and slide it across the burn mark and remove as much of it as I can before wet sanding and using the SOS pad.

Maybe others have a simpler way to get it back to a uniform color. I sure would interested to find an easier way to get it back to a uniform color.

[sparky kilowatt]

Similar to what Wayne-Ooo said, I've used automotive black wet / dry sandpaper. I try to use the highest number (least grit) possible to lessen the scratching, I usually get a cup of water, put a drop of liquid dish soap in it, then dip the paper, start sanding, working my way up in number to lessen / polish the scratch marks (400 / 600/ 800 / 1000/ 1500/ 2000) then go over it a couple of times with Novus #2 to get the finest scratches out.

Here's the ball tray to a machine I just wet sanded & polished, I thought it was dingy white before sanding and polishing, turns out it's gray.

[Wayne-Ooo]

Here's the ball tray to a machine I just wet sanded & polished, I thought it was dingy white before sanding and polishing, turns out it's gray.

I had to wear sunglasses to look at the after picture.

Excellent work!

[ebb]

for minor flaws I use Novus
always use clean cloths or sandpaper each step
A78663CE-3CF2-435A-AE37-45A428003F97.jpeg

[Silverballs]

My two cents would be if the mark is to deep to sand out effectively/level,(Don't need a divot in the tray etc) clean the valleys of the burn with a toothpick and some acetone/lacquer thinner/MEK) and dab a nice catalyzed single stage color, or a base coat with clear on top. allow to dry overnight, sand and hand rub it out. I've been using Spies solvents since the early 90's and have had great results. Water based is ok too just put a good 2k clear over the touch up and it'll look great! Oh, NO polyurethanes or 1K clears/sealers, as they'll yellow and look uuuuugly..

[Silverstreak02]

Thanks for all the great ideas. I started with the SOS pad, but it wasn’t working on the burn mark. I switched to 400 grit wet and was able to eliminate the burn mark and most of the discoloration. I still have more work to do before I start using finer sand paper. For now I just wanted to say thanks for the help.

[Wayne-Ooo]

Looking Good!

[Silverballs]

Awesome!

[sparky kilowatt]

Very nice!

[Silverstreak02]

I finished the polishing today. It came out OK and I’m happy I made an improvement. Everything in life comes with a lesson. In this case I learned that I need to remove all the discoloration with the 400 grit before moving on. The final product has some discoloration in the groves and I introduced some light scratches. Reminds me of my cut and buff when I refinish a pinball playfield. I’m never able to get the high gloss others achieve. For the most part I’m happy with it and will move on.

[sparky kilowatt]

I think it looks infinitely than before, nice and shiny.

[Silverballs]

Beautiful, good job!