Vintage Mizuho

[SibSr]

I have started working on reproducing the low ball ramp and counterweight assembly for you.
Have been looking at the front tray on my Mizuho...Its all one piece and like 17" long which would stretch the size capability of the consumer level 3D printers. There are a couple that it might just fit on barely. Then the next question would be color..trying to reproduce the vibrant orange color may be difficult.

So currently I am looking at harvesting some plastic from the internal structure of the tray (if possible) and using that to make a patch to replace what's missing at the edge of the tray.
Once I get mine apart and see what can be done, I'll either start down that route or think about plan B.

Plan B would be to figure out a way to 3D print it as 2 pieces instead of 1. This has some promise, but the color is still a factor....am I trying to make an orange one or maybe some other interesting color....to be determined.

But as I said I am willing to see what we can do to get both our machines fixed. I finished up my 3D project to make a replacement Sankyo payout rocker and after making 3D versions for both types, I'm ready for a new challenge.

Rear tray repair pictures still to come.

[SibSr]

So the Mizuho I referenced before is also like yours in that the low ball ramp has had the counterweight and support arm broken off, and in my case missing in action. This is the part off that Mizuho I had been using as a model. But, I have the same model machine that is in pristine condition that allowed me to get the dimensions for the broken arm.

Mizuhooriginalramp.jpg

So I took my Sankyo ramp drawing and modified it and now I have a Mizuho low ball ramp

Mizuhorampdrawing.jpg

Now it's off to the printer for 6 hours. I just got a new roll of translucent yellow PETG that will be pretty close in color as a bonus!

[SibSr]

I have the solution for your broken ramp. My "Mizuho Low Ball Ramp Repair Kit"

MIzuholowballrampkit.jpg

Mizuhorampsand hardware.jpg
The yellow filament I got and wanted to use seems to have no strength with every part breaking so far, making it not much better than the original part. So, I went back to the trusty clear PETG that I have been using. Was able to get a nice reproduction that fits and works in my Mizuho.

My project Mizuho machine had the broken yellow ramp in it, but the other Mizuho I have looks like this with original equipment

mizuhomodelramp.jpg

Here is the repair kit I made for you in the same position on the project machine

Mizuhorampup.jpg

The rod is aluminum from a model rocket launch pad setup bent to shape.
The counterweight is 1/2" brass rod I center drilled and then put a setscrew in it. Does not weight quite as much as original but seems to work OK.


In the down position it touches the switch correctly.

Mizuhorampdown.jpg

Problem solved...On to the front tray.

[SibSr]

Speaking of which. I took mine off and found a lot of empty space. No opportunity to harvest any plastic for repairing anything of any size.

mizuhofronttray2.jpg

So it's on to plan B ?

Printing a single piece this size is almost more than current consumer 3D printers can handle, almost. Along the lines of plan B - to print a whole new piece, I have a large format 3D printer arriving today. This will open up the possibility of printing as one piece...we'll see. I also need to learn Fusion 360 to be able to draw it first.

mizuhofronttray1.jpg

Plan C has been bubbling up, and it entails taking a razor saw and cutting all side walls down (or in these pictures UP) to the flat surface, and printing just the upper half and trying to incorporate the separate trim piece profile into the print job.

mizuhofronttrayb4cuts.jpg mizuhofronttraycuts.jpg

Haven't cut anything yet until I see what the new printer can do.

[pachiwall]

I have a Maruhon. It was missing the reward hopper...broken to the point of missing.Having no access or skill with a 3D printer...I modified a Nishijin model B hopper to work.
https://www.pachitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?40352-2-new-vintages!&highlight=sidetross

[pachiwall]

OOOPS! I did that wrong. Tray starts at post #24 on page 2.

[jasonlujan]

it would cost you about $400 to have the tray 3D scanned and modelled, and maybe $250 to have it commercially printed in durable resin.

[SibSr]

it would cost you about $400 to have the tray 3D scanned and modelled, and maybe $250 to have it commercially printed in durable resin.

That seems like a lot for a plastic tray. And if your tray is broken, then scanning it wouldn't seem to work, unless the original can be reconstructed from the scan of a partial part?

With 35+ vintages I have had plenty of tray problems to fix, and Pachiwall's adaptation of a Nishijin tray is nice to see. But what if you don't have spare trays? I don't have any usable trays that aren't already on machines.
When I was looking into a replacement for a missing tray, I found that there is a lot of size and shape variation even though they look similar. A Nishijin tray is longer and taller than a lot of other manufactures and doesn't always fit.

I have been promising some info on how I have been fixing my trays, so I guess I am going to go for it.

As I suggested to Noelmage, the first thing I do is try to return the plastic to it's preimpact position. Flex open up the damage a little, rearrange the edges and get all the material that isn't missing back to it's original position. Try to get where it is just a few cracks and not overlapping or twisted plastic. Then fill those cracks with superglue and clamp them for a few hours.

This tray looks bad, but eventually all I did was the above process.
graytrayoriginal.jpg graytrayoriginal2.jpg

After gluing

traycrack2.jpg traycrack1.jpg traycrack3.jpg

When there is material missing, then I usually go for the white styrene plastic that model cars are made from. It's easy to manipulate, sturdy enough when used in thicker pieces, and readily available at any good hobby shop.
I have been building models for 50+ years so it is a material I'm very familiar with. The styrene glue does not work wth the Pachinko's ABS parts, so superglue is a good multi-material adhesive.


Common damage - front edge gone, side walls broken at an angle. In this case the final result was a narrower than normal tray, but one that will still hold plenty of balls.
yellowtray1.jpg
The plastic stock was doubled up to try and match the tray wall thickness.

yellowtray2.jpg yellowtray3.jpg
Styrene is softer than ABS and superglue is not the natural adhesive, so rather than chance it, in high stress areas I put in screws for extra strength.

yellowtray4.jpg

[SibSr]

Now these repairs aren't exactly pretty, but for me as long as its functional I'm OK with it.

In the case of one of the two more modern machines I have, the Gladiator had a broken tray that held so few balls it was difficult to have fun playing. I convinced the guy to give me a deal because of this problem, but then I had to fix it make it better.

Again the white plastic, with screws for strength, and this time a piece of round tube was added as a way to keep the long wall from flexing under the weight of 500-1000 balls.
gladiatortra1.jpg gladiatortray2.jpg

This tray was missing a big piece, and I decided I wanted to fix it, and make it look good too.
junkertray.jpgI took paper and traced out the shape of the hole and then cut a piece of styrene to fit. junkertraypatch.jpg kyotrayfix1.jpg

Cut a bigger piece for the inside to give the old tray wall and new patch a common surface to attach to.
junkertraypatchclamp.jpg filled all gaps with generous amounts of super glue and then sanded it all down

kyotrayfix2.jpgDecided the upper "rail" should be reproduced too.junkertray sanded.jpg

Some spring green paint from Home Depot and it is hard to tell it isn't an original part.
You can just barely see signs of the original hole.

junkertrayfinal.jpg

[SibSr]

And then there is the problem that Pachiwall dealt with...what about no tray on the machine?
When I contacted PachinkoBoy he said rear trays were in high demand and hard to get...so nothing for the Maruhon that had the upper tray removed so it could be hung on the wall in a barn. I checked into a Nishijin tray, but they were too big.

The (smallish) empty space for the tray needs a low profile tray to fit.
toprear.jpg

So I went on a two hour hunt on Amazon wading through various plastic trays until I finally found what I was looking for: a clear plastic tray that was of usable dimensions.

The STORI SimpleSort 9" long, 3" wide, and 2" tall 6 piece stackable storage trays Item #B01BKODXMG was just what I was looking for.

The plastic was soft enough to drill and carve without cracking, the walls are plenty thick to hold the amount of balls that fit in it, and it's clear so you can see the ball supply at a glance.
I used a spade bit to drill a coupe large holes and then used a normal twist drill spinning in a drill like a grinder to slowly open the hole up to the shape I wanted. Then a couple mounting holes in the side.
I was going to add a support bracket underneath but it doesn't seem like it's needed.

cleartray.jpg

At 2" tall this tray still just barely fits.

cleartraywithballs2.jpg cleartraywithballs3.jpg cleartraytop.jpg

[SibSr]

And now back to the front tray....
My new large 3D printer arrived and it is BIG. The build plate is twice the size of the other printer, and the front tray of the Mizuho fits on it just fine.

trayonplate.jpg My split floorplan house has had no kids using the small shower stall in the bathroom on that end of the house in several years.

Well my Workmate fits just right in the shower stall and the printer does too. It needs the full 32" square stall to move forward and back. It just kisses the back wall and then just misses the glass door in the front.
when it's closed.
printerenclosure.jpg
Next is a hood and fan setup to route fumes out to the eaves same way as the bathroom exhaust fan.

So while setting it up I found a couple interesting things in the instructions.
First is this graphic telling you to cut the big shipping zip ties off. #1 is the big one holding the build plate secure. #3 and #4 are the two ties holding the power supply and computer secure to the frame for shipping.
But #2 is pointing to the main drive belt for the build plate? And there were only 3 ties...
instructions1.jpg


And then when they are stressing the necessity of bed leveling, they advised this

instructions2.jpg

So I am learning new 3D modelling software to improve the fit and finish of future parts and the large printer can handle almost any Pachinko part on the machine. I am looking forward to trying to fix this front tray for us. I have several parts I have been working on recently and will post them in the 3D parts thread.

[MrGneiss]

Looks like PT hit its head and lost your pics for the last post..if you post the pics again, I can put theme where they should be next chance I get!!

[SibSr]

trayonplate.jpg printerenclosure.jpg instructions1.jpginstructions2.jpg
It was late..perhaps I screwed up

[noelmage]

Nice Chiron!

[takethecastle57]

Shower stall 3D printer !! What a cool option !

[SibSr]

Once I put a homemade hood and exhaust fan on it the shower stall becomes a "3D printer enclosure" so I can check out ABS, Nylon, etc.

[jasonlujan]

And then there is the problem that Pachiwall dealt with...what about no tray on the machine?
When I contacted PachinkoBoy he said rear trays were in high demand and hard to get.

I submitted a 3D model of a Mizuho rear tray (low profile) for this very reason. You can find it in the 3D parts thread.

[SibSr]

While my new bigger printer can handle the size of this tray, I am not all that confidant that it can produce a piece that would be acceptable. Certainly would struggle with the overall quality of finish.
So after successfully repairing another tray, I decided to just repair this one instead of producing a replacement.

If Noelimage returns to this thread I'm offering to repair your tray using the same technique if you send it to me. I still have the low ball ramp with counterweight I created for you as well.


Mizuhotraybroken.jpg


Used a piece of paper to trace a rough outline for cutting the patch from styrene.

traypatch.jpg

Glued in place with lots of superglue

Mizuhotraybrokenpatch.jpg

This is .080 styrene sheet purchased at Hobby Lobby

traypatch2.jpg

Added the inside and outside lips

traypatchlipaddded.jpg

After using contour putty also from Hobby Lobby and a lot of shaping and sanding
It's ready for primer

traypatchafterprimer.jpg trayafterprimer.jpg
After primer

And then painted

trayafterpaint.jpg

I can do this for you also.

[SibSr]

The white trim piece was also missing a chunk of plastic, and I used the same techniques to fix it.

Traced a pattern from thinner plastic sheet like .040 and cut it to fit, then glue into place.

traytrimfix.jpg

traytrimfix2.jpg


Primed and touched up as needed since priming always reveals unseen issues

trimafterprimer.jpg

Then painted white

[SibSr]

Here is how the two look now still mounted on the board for painting the tray

mizuhotrayafterpaint.jpg

Still planning on a clear coat since there is paint on the inside of the tray to try and protect the paint and the balls from each other