Extra Clean Vintage

[MrGneiss]

Just amazed how clean this vintage looks!! "needs some work" $72 start!!

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/16517152912...gAAOSwCpFhh9mU

[Moparformances]

all I can say is

IKC

[pachiwall]

Its a Kyoraku...they are the ones with the solenoid that needs power to shoot. Looking at the back, it still has a pair of wires going through a hole below the seesaw.But...just because the wires are there, don't mean somebody hasn't removed the solenoid or other parts to make it work! Mine was missing the parts...the only reason I bought it. Not sure of the year, but the front door(that the ball tray mounts to) on mine was made of plastic. It just gave the whole machine a "throw away" feel to it. Kind of like a GM car from the '80s.
If it had the electric shooter parts, and "local pickup" was local to me...I would probably get it. Just because I want that odd variant!

[MrGneiss]

Sold for $72.00!!

[SibSr]

Actually sold for $50.
I bought it after offering $50 to take it off his hands
It was a local pickup only an hour away from me. I was going to start a thread called the "The saddest Pachinko I have ever seen".
He said it was given to him and that he thought it was an old one. Here it is in my garage
Dogfacejunker1.jpg

Then after an hour or so of superficial cleaning

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[SibSr]

If you look closely, I believe the first machine on the left side of this pic is this same basic machine, trays, decorations, etc.

Japan Pachinko Parlor.jpg

[SibSr]

Shooter area was nasty

nastyshooter.jpgnastyshooteropen.jpg

coil is there but related parts missing. Just 2 empty posts

Window frame is toast, and water damage is extensive, but otherwise fairly complete.
For my $50 I also retrieved 150 surprisingly high quality balls out of it. You could see they were everywhere, and I had to half way disassemble it to get them all out.

lotsoballs.jpglotsoballs2.jpglotsoballs3.jpg

[MrGneiss]

Thank you for saving this poor pachi!!


I moved the thread to the vintage section so more people can see your progress!!

[SibSr]

Thank you for saving this poor pachi!!


I moved the thread to the vintage section so more people can see your progress!!

I was reading the "Tips for cleaning your vintage Pachinko Machine" thread, and then did a search on this site for the part number for my new favorite cleaning product. I did not see a reference to what I use on my machines, so I am going to show what I have been using recently and some of my results. I'm also going to show a couple tools I use for working on the machines.

My new best cleaning product is an old product that has more options than I realized. I've used the green Scotch-Brite pads you see in the kitchen in the past in situations where a cloth and cleaning liquid wasn't cutting it. It works on the back plastic pieces to take off the tough rust and grime spots, but hazed the plastic a little. Using it on a test spot on chrome showed that it dulled the finish and was quite noticeable. Then I found out that Scotch-Brite pads come in multiple grades just like sandpaper.
I ordered the softest grade No. 7445 which came in a box of 20 pads and is white. I cut the pads into strips and squares, and throw them away regularly since I have plenty and they are working good and getting dirty. They also break down over time like steel wool does and become less effective. But the particles that are shed are plastic instead of metal, and don't eventually rust like steel wool. I have some very fine steel wool on hand but haven't felt like it was the right thing to use, and now I have an alternative that works well.

This material is usable on every part of the machine except maybe decals. Surface rust off of chrome and other metal parts or just to polish it, cleaning linoleum, scuff marks on plastic, seems to take some of the yellowing from sun fading off of plastic also. It doesn't scratch chrome no matter how much you use it, it just gets shinier. Doesn't haze the plastic parts in the back, even clear parts are safe.

scotchbritebox.jpg scotchbriteparticles.jpg

An area that I find it to work really well in is nail head polishing. Using liquids and cloths can get them the nails heads pretty clean.. to a nice golden / honey color .. which can be a big improvement. But it is a slow and gradual process requiring more than one pass lots of times. I have not felt the urge to pull all those nails, tumble them, and put them back in so far. But the results of using this scotch-brite gets them to a brightness I have not achieved using cleaners and cloths. Dremel tool buffers can work but are hard to control and also tend to disintegrate as they are used.

This machine was cleaned using my most up to date technique on the nails, and scotch-brite was used on almost every part of the machine.
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The field nails are done here but the spinner nail still shows the original nail condition
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The nail field on the left prior to the scotch-brite, and then after a few minutes later

nbailfieldb4.jpg nailfieldfter.jpg

The scotch-brite after cleaning, compared to the next new piece

scotchbriteold&new.jpg

I like to cut the edges off a new pad, as the edges are a little firmer due to the manufacturers cutting them to size. There are less loops to get hung up if you use the edges.

scotchbriteedges.jpg

Since it is a fibrous product, it hangs on the nail heads a bit if you use the regular flat part of the pad, but you can get the hang of how much pressure to use and have success.
If the nail heads are bad, I'll dip the strip of scotch-brite in a CLR/water mix first , squeeze out the excess, and then hit the bad areas right away.

There are a couple things to watch for when using this product. The particles it generates under heavy usage, and when doing nails, some stray threads that get hung up on the nails.
The threads can be spotted with a flashlight and picked off with tweezers
scotchbritehair.jpg

Next post: tackling this rough machine

[SibSr]

So this nasty machine is going to need some serious work, and will be on the bench for a while. It needs to be secure enough to not fall during the next few weeks, so it is going into my homemade machine holder.
A 3/4 particle board base with front lip, a board across the back that can be adjusted for the width of the bottom of the machines (which are not all the same), and a couple clamps that can be rotated into place to hold the machine. The clamps are the stands for a couple small bookshelf speakers. The bottom has several felt pads so the whole thing can be spun around to work on both sides without worrying about work surface damage.

Which reminds me.... One of the first things you do with your new Pachinko before putting it on anything important....
Check the bottom wood panel of the machine for foreign objects. Especially staples. Not sure why so many machines have staples in the bottom, but they frequently do. Nail heads sticking up, staples, screws.... I've pulled all these things out of the wood, many times after they have scratched something while sliding the machine around.

pachiworkstandempty.jpg pachiworkstandloaded.jpg pachiworkstandsecured.jpg

Time to start disassembly. In these pics I have already started taking some of the big plastic components off like dust covers and dump chute.

[SibSr]

This machine would appear to me to have been brought home from Japan by somebody, and not processed by a reseller. Balls are all the same markings, but worn badly. Machine is extremely dirty, both in the ball operating areas and the outward facing surfaces of everything. Washing with a Fabuloso / water mix and a toothbrush wasn't enough; the outsides had to be scrubbed with the white scotch-brite to actually come clean.

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Washing plastic parts in the dust cover from and old cheap turntable, that then sits in my garage laundry tub. CLR bath for metal and combination parts is in clear container
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The construction of this machine is modular, so it can be taken apart in sections. I take one module apart, clean all the parts and make any repairs, and then reassemble and set aside.
Here the ball handling module is removed and opened up for the first time and it is well used.

ballhandlingmoduleb4.jpgballhandlingmoduleclam.jpg

The winner ball handling module is separate and includes a unique approach to resetting the seesaw.

winnerballhandlerb4.jpg After passing through the wash station the same module looks like this now. Metal parts cleaned, brass polished and plastic scrubbed. winnerballhandlerfter.jpg
Notice the large ball bearing and lifter knob that when raised, the ball falls on the back of seesaw and resets it to the up position.

[SibSr]

More parts washed and ready for reinstall. All these assemblies have been through either the Fabuloso bath, the CLR bath or both.
Then they are gone over with white scotch-brite and then rinsed.
IMPORTANT final step. If you are going to use water to clean metal parts, its best to dry them with compressed air if available to eliminate all moisture. If any moisture is left the rust process will start quickly after stripping them clean in CLR.

Payoff dispenser before cleaning payoffdispenserb4.jpg After cleaning payoffdispenserexploded.jpg And reassembled payoffdispenserfter.jpg

Short ramp before shortrampb4.jpg and after cleaning shortrampfter.jpg

So the machine now has nothing on the back and work is starting on the wood. Cleaning and sanding to get rid of discolorations and rust markings from being used as part of the ball path. You can see I've already started on the lower half.

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[CarlW]

SibSr hijacked this thread!

[SibSr]

After sanding the back down, turned machine around and cleaned the playing field. It became apparent that the water damage was significant and playing surface was going to have to be replaced to look right.

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Rusted Window frame and all front trim was removed. The panel around the shooter had one nail that was particularly tight, but using my spring steel pocket ruler to get under the panel and gradually lift the nail worked.
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I've never disassembled a Pachinko to this point but the background replacement PDF was a big help in deciding to go this far. My nail pulling tool is actually a automotive door panel removal tool that I modified by drilling a hole and using a hacksaw to turn it into a notch. Nails were pulled quickly with no damage to heads, and then were put into the tumbler.
readytogofartherthanever.jpg nailtoolaltering.jpg nailtoolinaction.jpg

Background came off easy enough but left a lot behind that had to be scraped and sanded off to get backboard ready for new image.
backgroundseparated.jpg backingboardclean.jpg

[SibSr]

The front trim pieces were dirty and a brass wire brush had to be used to clean between the "teeth" on the top edge.
fronttrimteethb4.jpg

The insert in the middle was riveted on, and a challenge to separate from the trim piece. Once apart it was apparent why it looked faded....because it was
A little gloss red paint with an airbrush, and once everything was cleaned and back together it looked much better.
fronttrimb4.jpg fronttrimduring.jpg fronttrimredone.jpg

The front door and lower tray were given the treatment, including putting the ashtray into a CLR bath for a couple days to get all the crud out and make it shiny.

before cleaning Frontdoorb4.jpg after cleaning/painting frontdoorfter.jpg lowertrayb4.jpg lowertrayfter.jpg

The window frame is currently in a CLR bath for a few days as well to try and work on all the rust.

[SibSr]

So I thought since this machine was in bad shape and I was doing my first background replacement, that I would experiment some. Rather than scan the original background, clean it up on a computer and then take it somewhere to be printed, I though I would use an image I had on hand already. 35 years ago I took a sunset picture that I had 16x20 enlargements made of and gave to my family members. One got damaged and was sitting around. The general layout of the picture seemed like it might work as a Pachinko background, and my wife thought I should go for it.... so I did.

My 16x20 image on photo paper laid on the backboard to see how it might look with 20211210_172449.jpg 20211214_113913.jpg backgroundbirdcovered.jpg
a rather non-traditional image in place. Laying the old background over it showed
that it might just work, the scratch on the upper right will be covered by the corner
piece. Unfortunately the random bird in that corner will also get covered.

So some spray adhesive on the backboard and a foam toy used as a rolling pin to smooth out the image, and here we go...
newbackgroundpicapplied.jpg Then holes were cut and edges taped down 20211214_010120.jpg Purchased a roll of 5mil Mylar and laid over the image




Then old background is overlaid and used to punch nail holes in the new Mylar and background photoNailnolespunched.jpg





The tumbled nails look good. 1/8th by 2" cotter pins replaced the rusted launch rail originalsbackgroundnailsandrail.jpg

It is coming together and it looks like the background is going to look / work ok.
The top field element is nice and small and stays below the sun. Nails still need adjusting.20211215_075326.jpg
The green plastic of the center piece is only a little bit out of the color palette frontreassembled.jpg
Overall I'm pleased with my first background replacement. My wife said it looked better than she expected.....high praise indeed!

[MrGneiss]

Snazzy!!

[takethecastle57]

Bravo Brava

[SibSr]

20211213_115255.jpgSo the frame was sanded which lightened it up a good bit



Then the backboard was reinstalled into the frame backintheframe.jpg



Decided to re-assemble the back first to get rid of the pile of yellow green parts backassemblyearly.jpg backassemblymiddle.jpg went fast with parts already cleaned backfulltotop.jpg

After re-assembling the payoff supply ramps, had to spend time fixing the payoff tray that had a big chunk missing out of the side.
originaltray.jpg Some styrene plastic cut to fit the gap, trayfix1.jpg a backing piece for strength trayfix2.jpg then after a little work, a decent looking patch ready for paint trayfix3.jpg

[SibSr]

While waiting for the tray to dry, started working on the front of the machine. Again it went fast since parts were already cleaned and waiting. The window frame was in bad shape with a lot of rust so it went into a CLR bath for a couple days.

windowframesoaking.jpg and after a couple days the CLR had turned color. windowwaterdirty.jpg When removed, the rust had been dissolved, but a lot of chrome had been attached to the rust and now the frame is not rusted, but not good either.

windowframebackon1.jpg not rusted, but only half chromed now windowframestripped.jpg Even damaged the frame looks better than the original condition on left windowframecompare.jpg

Looks better, but not good enough. Probably going to sandblast frame with walnut shell media and paint silver. Not worth the cost of re-chroming.