My poor unloved Comet II

[Baseballguy247]

What does this transformer power? I had no idea that you could rewind a transformer like that and still have it work. Im very intrigued.

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[compirate]

It's an induction motor. Uses the alternating current to make the rotor spin (no direct connection to the rotor). The hertz somewhat determines the speed, faster for our 60Hz, slower for Japan's 50Hz.

[pachiwall]

I wonder if you could replace it with a small fan motor. Just replace the core with the one with the gear. Of course it would be 120VAC then...

Wonder how fast that old one spun?

I have considered a fan motor. I even considered reusing the armature as I'm not sure if I could get the gear off. While searching for a replacement motor, I noticed that most of them were about 3000 RPM. I saw one at 3 RPM, and a few around 300 RPM. Prices varied wildly depending on where I was looking. Many were simply unsuited for mounting in the frame. Others were too costly to even consider. I came to the conclusion that I would likely spend way too much if I made more than two wrong choices. If this motor is less than 3000 Rpm, (3000 RPM good for a fan motor...probably not so good for a ball launcher) then my choices become very limited.
Since I have no idea what RPM it is...I have decided to rewind it with the same gauge of wire, the same number of turns. I have been doing lots of research on rewinding small motors. I think I can do it! Have some internet/eBay wire, Glyptol, and fishpaper choices I'm about to buy. I found an electrical supply house near my job that I want to check out before I buy. Support local business if I can.

[pachiwall]

What does this transformer power? I had no idea that you could rewind a transformer like that and still have it work. Im very intrigued.

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The transformer is fine. I smoked the motor because I forgot to use the transformer. The transformer would have been easy to replace. Probably cheaper to replace a transformer than to rewind it.
The part I plan on rewinding is the coil that produces the magnetic field that makes it run. (if I understand it correctly). It is a simple plastic spool, with 300 turns of 24 gauge enameled wire. Slightly more complicated than that. but it sounds easy.

[pachiwall]

It's an induction motor. Uses the alternating current to make the rotor spin (no direct connection to the rotor). The hertz somewhat determines the speed, faster for our 60Hz, slower for Japan's 50Hz.

The two copper windings on opposite sides of the armature make it a "shaded pole" AC induction motor. As I understand it, AC voltage would simply cause the armature to vibrate. The shaded poles give the magnatism a directional "push" in a specific direction. Watched a YouTube video where a man cut off the copper shsded poles. Apply power...no spin. You could spin it to make it go...stop it, and spin it the other way...and it would spin the opposite direction. If you want to reverse direction, the armature can be flipped upside down, then it spins the other way. The AC cant start it on its own...nor does it care which way it spins. The shaded poles are not connected to power. I think directional magnetism is induced by the steel frame (hence induction) which is magnetized by the windings that I fried.I could be wrong about some (or all) of this...I have been reading much, and retaining some of it.

[Drunkenclam]

I think he means. Unlike a normal motor where the windings are on the rotor and connect to the power via carbon brushes.

[pachiwall]

True! The armature has no (external?) windings. Looks like a solid piece of round stock. Something is going on inside...but, I don't know what.

[Drunkenclam]

a voodoo curse!!

[pachiwall]

Gonna start a completely new thread for this!

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[pachiwall]

By the way...I created a new thread about rewinding the motor. That way this thread don't wander in too many directions!
https://www.pachitalk.com/forums/sho...nding-AC-motor

[pachiwall]

I don't know where I filed my pics. I started to mount the motor assembly...things are not lining up right. I bent the trip dog...but, I don't like it.
There is a strip of wood that don't look like was on the original machine. I will likely remove some wood...but don't want to remove too much. The only pic I can find has the motor much closer to the shooter.
If anyone has (or can find) any other pics of the motor area of ant other conversions. Please post them here.
I'm having trouble deciding where to locate the knob, as I dont want to drill the hole where the motor belongs.

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[pachiwall]

About 1/2 flipper stroke...will launch full field.

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[pachiwall]

The 2 pics in #31 are test fits with the wood strip intact. It throws all contact points off by 3/4". I tried bending the trip dog, but did not like how it looked. It required spacer blocks or strips of wood to level. I never even applied power...I just removed the piece of wood.
In post #32 The metal plate that aids lining the door up was removed as well. It was also in the way. Since the device bridges the gap between machine and frame, I needed to secure the two together. A 3" drywall screw at the top and bottom, through the side and into the plywood made it nice and solid.
Bent the trip dog back to 2 90 degree bends, All things line up much better! I'm trying to see the best location for the motor. The crank on it is so short that I can only get a half length pull on the flipper. Most positions leave no room for the knob. Keep in mind that the 5/8" hole needs to be all in the machine...or all in the frame. I would rather not drill the hole on the seam and have to glue and screw a piece of plywood on the back to reinforce it!
So far this position looks OK, and with enough tension, it does shoot full field.
Now to see if there is a clear path for the string, and suitable spot for switch and tensioner. Still no hole! I'm afraid of drilling it in the wrong spot. So, I marked where I think I will drill it, and put in a drywall screw. Hang the pulley on, and now I can see if it all fit. However, I was now tired and went to bed.

[pachiwall]

This is the image that I have been using as a guide.

[pachiwall]

Finally got brave enough to drill a hole in the front. The knob is closer to the finger post than I like...but, I can hold the knob and not contact the post.

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[pachiwall]

I considered removing the finger post, drilling out the hole, and mounting the knob there. This would have been too high, and the string would contact the plastics on the back.

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[pachiwall]

Completely untested. Have to work early, so just pics of spring tensioner and string hookup. One pic at rest...and one at full twist.

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[pachiwall]

Nothing added today, other than adding transformer to see what happens. Midway, the balls barely made it above the circular track. At 1 notch below max, it shoots most of the way across at rest. Therefore, the location of the metal bar is probably correct. When twisted. the balls shoot farther.That being said...now I need to mount the normally closed switch to a spot where the metal bar presses it to open the circuit when at rest. When twisting the knob, the bar will move away from the switch...closing the circuit. Further twisting the knob increases tension on the spring, shooting further. I will need to find the "sweet spot"...where just opening the switch shoots far enough to clear the ring, with more twisting reaches maximum travel.
But not before sleep!

[pachiwall]

The pivot for the tension lever is a nail. the one used for testing is too thin. this causes the lever to move forward and back just a bit. This is enough to make placement of the switch difficult. I need a screw or nail that fits the hole better to reduce wobble. Maybe a small L shaped tab to make a broad pressure plate for the switch.

[pachiwall]

Wow...it has been 9 months since I did anything. The holes on the bracket are 2 sizes. A nail that fits the smaller hole still wiggles. I bought a bag of small brass washers to put one on each side to take up the slop. They were too thick, so I sanded them thinner with 400 grit sandpaper. It is a little stiff, so probably needs more danding. The string is too short, so something is put back on different...cant remember what I did 9 months ago. I decided to install the nail from the back so I wouldn't have to shorten and sharpen it...plus risk it poking through the front. Plus I can remove it easier as I fiddle with it.

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