3D Printed Pachinko Parts

[taz420nj]

I obtained a 3D printer 3 weeks ago, and a 3D scanner 10 days ago with the intention of trying to duplicate Pachinko parts, but so far have had limited success with the inexpensive, Chinese scanner I got from Walmart at 50% off. It is geared for making 3D models of people apparently with 3 different modes, and the one "Object" mode doesn't seem to work very well. I am still trying to decide if I even want to keep it at this point. I am going to try again with a different part here soon, and if I can get some success I would be willing to try and make these. But, there is also a good chance that I could pull these parts out of my spare parts too. Is there some reason you want them 3D printed? As a newbie I find it can be an involved process and a time eater, which is only worth it for the unattainable parts

I actually also just pulled the trigger on a 3D printer. It should get here today. From what I've been reading,the cheap scanners aren't all that accurate when it comes to little details. The only "cheap" one that seems to be worth spending money on is the Creality - which is about $800. Photogrammetry scanning (high res pictures from every angle) is a lot more accurate amd doesnt require anything other than a good camera. I'm going to give that a try, my first printing project is going to be a turntable for it.

[takethecastle57]

All the best of luck in the adventure.

I've had a 3d Delta printer from Flsun model Q5 for almost Two years and for the last year I haven't done much with it but I do see some pachinko parts files on Thingiverse.com

https://www.thingiverse.com/


https://flsunofficial.com/products/flsun-q5

[SibSr]

I got a hobbyist license for Fusion 360 also, found it challenging as a newbie just trying to generate a basic model. Found TinkerCAD to be more basic and user friendly, and without a large time investment got a part generated. I plan to move up to Fusion 360 once I get some more experience. Having the printer on hand is nice, but is not always a smooth operation...at least for me so far.

[SibSr]

When I saw the scanner for $345 instead of almost $700 I went for it and had a little better luck last night, but....not thrilled with the results so far.

[SibSr]

I was trying to avoid cannibalizing another machine to get the parts.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Makes sense. But, your in luck being on this website! Welcome to Pachitalk!

Let me check to make sure, but I have a Nishijin recycler in pieces that I may be able to get these for you. There are slight variations for different years so they may not be exact, but give me 24hrs to pull them out.

[takethecastle57]

Yeah good 3d scanners do go high but I like to use Amazon as comparison and research resource when I go up to the bay area to check the second hand stores for that cool scanner/turntable set .





https://www.amazon.com/s/?k=3d+scann...qid=1654670541

[SibSr]

I was trying to avoid cannibalizing another machine to get the parts.

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Yes I have all three parts.

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[SibSr]

Here are the parts. I responded to your message.
payoffcoverF.jpgpayoffcoverR.jpgtrackcoverF.jpgtrackcoverR.jpgmaincoverR.jpgmaincoverF.jpg


So I decided I would try 3D printing these parts before I got rid of them, while I could use them to take measurements from.

The payoff cover took 4-5 hours drawing time, the clear track cover was another 4-5 hours, and I am just starting on the main cover. It looks to be challenging, but that's why I'm interested in trying it.

I have the first test prints done for the clear track cover, which I printed with clear PETG. Test fit of last print shows one more adjustment is needed. The payoff cover is printing now, also in clear PETG since that is the only roll of PETG I have.
Been working all weekend on dialing in the temp settings for good results on my machine.

[SibSr]

The clear track cover is one tweak away from being good to use. The hopefully final version of the payoff cover is coming off the printer later today

the original, the white PLA test print and the nearly final PETG versioncover evolution.jpg

The main nail hole on my version is missing the original hole in the wood by half the hole width, but it can be used since PETG has some flexibility that PLA doesn't.
Next print should work perfect, just not exactly clear.
covercompare.jpg

[taz420nj]

I got a hobbyist license for Fusion 360 also, found it challenging as a newbie just trying to generate a basic model. Found TinkerCAD to be more basic and user friendly, and without a large time investment got a part generated. I plan to move up to Fusion 360 once I get some more experience. Having the printer on hand is nice, but is not always a smooth operation...at least for me so far.

Ive been printing all sorts of things learning about the way the different settings affect the print, and I gotta say Im happy with where I've gotten so far with jasonlujan's models. The top double drop pocket, the tulip petals, and the tulip/falcon pockets all look fantastic in the clear ABS. I don't know if I'm as thrilled with the spinners yet though, as they keep coming out fragile where the front disc meets the fins and the fact that I basically have to print them face down to avoid adding a ton of scaffolding makes them come out a little rough.

Now I'm just waiting for the parts to build my turntable to get here so I can build my scanner. I work for a school district and a college so I was able to get an educator's license for Autodesk products (including TinkerCAD, Fusion360, and ReCap Pro/Photo), so now I have to start learning how to use everything. Now I just hope my not so new computer doesn't choke on it and make me spend more money!

[jasonlujan]

one reason i havent modelled the (Model A) payoff cover is the flexible hinge and that it uses tension to secure. It's easier to just go without since I'm not running a gambling business with my machines.

[cpesko]

Screenshot_20220619-012012_Facebook.jpeg Screenshot_20220619-012058_Facebook.jpeg

Hello, I picked up a sanyo comet ii in some rough shape missing glass and probably missing more parts cracked frame off the marketplace and I was wondering if anyone knew what part this was in the yellow below the jackpot loader. Tried to search everywhere. Does anyone have a stl for this I can print?

[takethecastle57]

:tea and biscuits

The part in the lower left front of the machine was a ash tray .

[takethecastle57]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-San...edirect=mobile

[cpesko]

yea lol I did notice the ashtray was missing I am going print the one on here and see if it fits. I was looking the seasaw locking mechnism I guess the other picture didnt upload.

[cpesko]

[cpesko]

also may be wrong area but does anyone know what the bottom rubber is called for the lose ball return? this one is dry rotted pretty bad

[cpesko]

[cpesko]

Attachment 100937
maybe it will load?

[jmbrando]

20220630_215735.jpgWith my son's help we created a STL file to print replacement rubber bushings to hold the bulb sockets. Using TPU filament in your 3D printer this can be used to replaced the dry rotted rubber on 50 year old machines that were holding the light bulb sockets.