Newby Pachinko Question

[Brndray]

So I have just aquired, by default, out of my grandmothers attic a vintage pachinko machine. It a Kyoraku and appently one of the unique ones. This machine appears to have two seperate power supplies. One is going to be the standard 9-10 volt dc which operates the lights, low ball, and a couple other microswitches. The second power supply must be the 24volt ac which has an inline fuse, provides power to the jackpot microswitch, and then on into a coil near the ball feed mechanism. My question is will a door chime transformer, 110 to 24 volt 20VA, be enough to power this up or will I need
something like 150-500VA?

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[pachiwall]

I'm not sure what the 24v is for. From what I can see...it looks like a purely mechanical machine. Is pic #2 the coil you are talking about? At 1st pass through pics, I just thought it was a socket for low ball indicator, then wondered if this was the coil you are asking about. Do you have balls to test it with? How about some more pics of the back? I'll bet the jack pot is all mechanical, and only 10v were originally used. Maybe the dual voltage transformer was all that was avaliable to whoever was working on it.

[Brndray]

It has two seperate feeds. The blue and yellow wires in picture number three run to a microswitch near the payout chute. From there they travel to a coil located near the ball feed/shooter mechanism, which is not pictured. the other four wires the red yellow white and blue, operate the lights and serveral microswitches. I removed these wires from the plastic harness they were in for testing purposes, but I am certain no one has worked on this machine.

[Brndray]

There are a few machines from the 1970s (probably less than 5%) that have motors, coils or cylinders that do require electricity in order to operate those electrical components. It appears that most of these components operate off a 24 volt transformer but you should have an electrician determine what you need. Here are some notes about a few of those machines.

• Nishijin Power Flash and Nishijin Kan-Less pachinko machines require electricity.
• Pachinko machines with a round shooter knob instead of a flipper require electricity.
• Some Kyoraku pachinko machines have a coil in the shooter assembly. Without power to the coil, a part will block the flow of balls through the shooter assembly. You can either 1) wire the machine to electricity, or 2) remove/rig the part so it doesn’t block the flow of balls.
• Some pachinko machines have electrical components that ‘move’ something on the playfield. Sometimes this movement is necessary for the machine to function properly and other times the movement is only to attract attention.

[CarlW]

A doorbell transformer is powerful enough. But do you need a bridge rectifier to convert to DC? My guess is yes.

pachiwall makes a great point - If it shoots, the coil in the shooter asembly is not required.

[compirate]

The lights in vintage machines originally ran on 8VAC back in the day.

[Brndray]

I will post a few more pictures to help describe my problem. Compirate where abouts in md. Maybe we could get together and figure it out.

[compirate]

I'm in Ky right now on my way to Alabama to deliver some wine

I'm an over the road truck driver and don't get home much

[Card Shark]

If your travels ever bring you through Richmond, VA and you would like a place to crash, you have an open invitation.

[mxfaiman]

First off to Pachitalk

There are a few machines from the 1970s (probably less than 5%) that have motors, coils or cylinders that do require electricity in order to operate those electrical components. It appears that most of these components operate off a 24 volt transformer but you should have an electrician determine what you need. Here are some notes about a few of those machines.

• Nishijin Power Flash and Nishijin Kan-Less pachinko machines require electricity.
• Pachinko machines with a round shooter knob instead of a flipper require electricity.
• Some Kyoraku pachinko machines have a coil in the shooter assembly. Without power to the coil, a part will block the flow of balls through the shooter assembly. You can either 1) wire the machine to electricity, or 2) remove/rig the part so it doesn’t block the flow of balls.
• Some pachinko machines have electrical components that ‘move’ something on the playfield. Sometimes this movement is necessary for the machine to function properly and other times the movement is only to attract attention.

No doubting you, but how do you know all of this? Did you look it up or do you actually know.

Anyways I think there is a way to bypass the electric loader on the kyoraku. I haven't played with mine yet but I think you can play it without power.

[Moparformances]

Welcome to Pachitalk

[Brndray]

I don't know all that. It was quoted from a website. The mechanism was disabled with a nail do it was playable but I would like to know how it operates when powered. Thanks for all the replies

[mxfaiman]

The mechanism was disabled with a nail do it was playable but I would like to know how it operates when powered. Thanks for all the replies

I think the nails was placed there by an importer because I think mine has a nail there to. Then again mine isn't as new as your machine as yours is about a 77-78 while mine is a 74.

[Moparformances]

if i remember right the coil your talking about was used to shut off the ball flow when the hopper was empty..

last machine like that i worked on we just removed the coil and wires

[mxfaiman]

if i remember right the coil your talking about was used to shut off the ball flow when the hopper was empty..

last machine like that i worked on we just removed the coil and wires

Yep.

You can remove them or just leave the nail as it does the job.

I think the electronic loader becomes more of a hassle than it is worth.

[Brndray]

Great. I'll just put the nail back in then. What about that microswitch? Do I need that hooked up? Here a few more pics.20121129_154445.jpg20121129_154552.jpg20121129_155804.jpg

[Card Shark]

Welcome to PachiTalk!

[CarlW]

Great. I'll just put the nail back in then. What about that microswitch? Do I need that hooked up? Here a few more pics.

After looking at the pictures, I can't tell ! Maybe someone else knows.

In general, there are two switches. Sometimes microswitches and sometimes leaf switches.

One switch indicates a low reward tray condition, typically the lens for that light is red.

The other switch is used to highlight a jackpot.

The circuit is very simple with leaf switches.
With microswitches, the circuit remains simple but the caveat is that a microswitch can be hooked up normally closed or normally open.

Wiring Diagram.zip

[Moparformances]

the picture of the micro switch in your post #16 does not need to be hooked up.. it is there so when the bottom front hopper is over full it will stop the balls from getting to the shooter...

[Rival]

I have found a few rare machines where there was a "coil" as you describe similarly located that did indeed run off 24vdc. However, this "coil" turned out to be a little piezo tweeter that made a "warbling" siren-like noise during payouts. You may wish to double check and make sure you have a ball lock instead of a "warbler", because the warblers are pretty darned cool and rare, and it would be a shame to disable it.