Extracting a Modern pachinko from a computer-controlled cabinet Computer Pachi

[Drunkenclam]

Well even without a meter, Can you unplug the 3 pin plug that goes off to the shooter

Tell me if that stops it firing.

[candyflip]

Well even without a meter, Can you unplug the 3 pin plug that goes off to the shooter

Tell me if that stops it firing.

Yes, of course it stops immediately, whenever either side of the plug is disconnected.

[Drunkenclam]

Ok. 2 things to check. Does the green wire go direct to the shooter and not interfered with anywhere?
Also when you turn the shooter knob from rest. Does the stop button pop out?

[Drunkenclam]

So if the lead from the shooter is disconnected, The shooter stops. In theory, The shooter knob is telling the motor to fire.



There are 3 wires to the knob. Green, Black and white.



The green goes to the ground ring on the knob (and no where else )
It looks like in your second video its connected to the machine frame?

The white and black goes to the stop switch.
I can't see from the pics or video due to the old connectors being in the way. Do the white and black wires, go all the way to the shooter and not broken anywhere? If either of these are damaged the stop button will not work. (might have been disabled/unplugged or cut when converted )

Next to the stop switch in the knob is a black lever. When the shooter knob is at rest This pushes the stop button in. As soon as you turn the knob, It releses the stop button and the motor starts firing.



At rest. The button hardly sticks out.



Knob turned, button protrudes. Motor starts.

[candyflip]

Ok. 2 things to check. Does the green wire go direct to the shooter and not interfered with anywhere?
Also when you turn the shooter knob from rest. Does the stop button pop out?

When I turn the shooter knob from rest, the button does pop out OK.

What green wire? You mean inside the knob? I've never taken one apart...

So if the lead from the shooter is disconnected, The shooter stops. In theory, The shooter knob is telling the motor to fire.

There are 3 wires to the knob. Green, Black and white.

The green goes to the ground ring on the knob (and no where else )
It looks like in your second video its connected to the machine frame?

The white and black goes to the stop switch.
I can't see from the pics or video due to the old connectors being in the way. Do the white and black wires, go all the way to the shooter and not broken anywhere? If either of these are damaged the stop button will not work. (might have been disabled/unplugged or cut when converted )
At rest. The button hardly sticks out.
Knob turned, button protrudes. Motor starts.

You mean inside the knob itself right? How do I get these apart to check wires?

[candyflip]

OK, I got the shooter apart all by myself!! (Gold STAR for me)

Here's the shots of mine - are these detailed enough for you to tell what's going on?

Edit: wait a minute... that white wire is cut again! It goes nowhere and looking at your's, it is suposed to be down in the plug next to the black one...

oh ****...

cheers

eva shooter apart01.jpg

eva shooter apart02.jpg

eva shooter apart03.jpg

eva shooter apart04.jpg

eva shooter apart05.jpg

[Drunkenclam]

Your part way there I'm saying green wire but I am colour blind the wire in the fourth picture at the top fixed with a screw. Does that go all the way to the circuit board without any joins or going to the frame. Back on iPhone again

[Drunkenclam]

That cut wire is why the stop button doesn't work. The reason it fires all the time with out being touched is this

The top wire in the 3 pin plug coming from the Lh (or the one I'm calling green - See above) seems to be grounded out on the motor. Thats wrong. It should connect to the lead that is screwed down inside.

[candyflip]

Your part way there I'm saying green wire but I am colour blind the wire in the fourth picture at the top fixed with a screw. Does that go all the way to the circuit board without any joins or going to the frame. Back on iPhone again

You know, I think I knew about the colour-blindness from previous old conversations maybe??? anyway, no worries, we'll talk in positions from now on where possible.

That wire in the top fixed with a screw (grey wire) is one that goes all the way to the back and does get fixed to the loom, and back to another screw on the other side, as you suggest.
New (better) pics below.

That cut wire is why the stop button doesn't work. The reason it fires all the time with out being touched is this

Understood.

The top wire in the 3 pin plug coming from the Lh (or the one I'm calling green - See above) seems to be grounded out on the motor. Thats wrong. It should connect to the lead that is screwed down inside.

Yeah, the 'green' wire is actually grey and it does follow that path...see my new photos below with better descriptions.
It's fixed at the shooter knob with a screw, and again through the loom on the other side out to an orange wire that connects to a screw at the back.
So my rudimentary understanding of electronics suggests to me that this is therefore permanently grounded? And thus, shoots constantly when engaged
after a coin drop and game 'start'?

Please note my BOTTOM photo is incorrectly labelled in that the black wire does NOT connect to a screw - it goes to the plug, as previously seen. The grey wire connects
to the screw, as correctly labelled in the top photo.


shooter side wires labelled.jpg

shooter wires diff view.jpg


Shooter wires labelled.jpg

[WondersPachi]

Just to say, most of the time those white types of connectors (white joiners/splitters or whatnot) were probably for an accessory or control. The cut wires are be telling me that someone simply added something to it. That switch should certainly have that other wire connected once the path is checked right. If not, the switch will not work. I don't know myself but the signal could be inverted (OFF is ON / ON is OFF). Glad to see your making progress Flip!

[candyflip]

Just to say, most of the time those white types of connectors (white joiners/splitters or whatnot) were probably for an accessory or control. The cut wires are be telling me that someone simply added something to it. That switch should certainly have that other wire connected once the path is checked right. If not, the switch will not work. I don't know myself but the signal could be inverted (OFF is ON / ON is OFF). Glad to see your making progress Flip!

Yeah, slowly but surely, Wonders - thank you.

We know the white joiners meant the wire was connected to something - and you're quite right, it was a controller in the main accessory board that controlled the coin selection and game start.

ta

[Drunkenclam]

Grey - Green It all starts with G

I would removing the white tabs and the spare wires and re-insulate any damage. Remove the orange ground.
The white switch wire is slightly more difficult. Either replace the microswitch with a type that isn't a plug in lead type and reconnect the wires. Or find a lead with the right plug on it

[candyflip]

I would removing the white tabs and the spare wires and re-insulate any damage. Remove the orange ground.
The white switch wire is slightly more difficult. Either replace the microswitch with a type that isn't a plug in lead type and reconnect the wires. Or find a lead with the right plug on it

Well, I kinda' skipped ahead and went ahead and re-assembled the shooter, with the orange wire at the back simply disconnected from the screw, thus
removing the permanent Ground situation.

Result: the thing functions now as intended!!

Only slight problem is that it now fires as soon as any part of my body touches the shooter... without cranking the handle to the right! But that's to be
expected. When I crank the handle, the shooter adjusts to the the level I'm directing it to fire at, so the game is pretty much the same.

I could sell this in current condition as of now - only problem then is, where do I get a spare shooter wire for the poor cannibalised Dead Aggressor?

[Drunkenclam]

Only slight problem is that it now fires as soon as any part of my body touches the shooter... without cranking the handle to the right! But that's to be
expected.

Yep the broken switch wire will do that.

I could sell this in current condition as of now - only problem then is, where do I get a spare shooter wire for the poor cannibalised Dead Aggressor?

If you PM me your address I can send you the complete lead out of my shooter knob and the cable from the circuit board to the motor. That shooter is mostly broken plastic parts.
Just pay the postage please

[candyflip]

Just pay the postage please

I'm sure I can do better than that!

In touch shortly - thank you.

[candyflip]

I've started cleaning up the now working EVA.

Here's some shots of the cleaning process using the Cell PICA spray and electric cleaner (makes everything shine!)
and some shots of a hard epoxy type resin that coats the shooter handle.

Not sure how to get this off - it is very hard, and can be scratched off with a sharp knife on the larger bits, but what about the thinner smears?

EVA_clean01.jpg

EVA_clean02.jpg


EVA_clean03.jpg

EVA_clean04.jpg

EVA_handle_gunk01.jpg

EVA_handle_gunk02.jpg

EVA_handle_gunk03.jpg

[candyflip]

Oh, one thing I wasn't expecting - the prize door at bottom doesn't open at all during a FEVER!!

first time I've ever seen that... it's not stuck per se - nothing seems to be holding it from opening, except the circuitry.

I can manually open it and feed balls in... but it won't do it itself at the right time, and it won't stay open during the Rounds.

damn...

[Drunkenclam]

The trap door opens by power going to a solenoid that pushes the door open and returns closed on a spring. Its a 2 wire connector on to the board of the cel. Its either unplugged. Be cut. Or the sloenoid is working but not pushing the door open.
Either way, Its a strip down of the cel to find out why.

When my Densha de go!2 cel arrived, the trap door didn't work on that. It had just come uncliped of the solenoid it transport. Just needed to be clipped back on.

[candyflip]

Oooookkkkkk... where abouts will I start with that?

eva back 4.jpg

eva back 3.jpg

eva back 2.jpg

eva back 1.jpg

[Drunkenclam]

I'll take a look at the pics after I get home from work. But you can remove the cel from the frame and remove the bottom circuit board. That's normally held in place by a couple of tabs and just slides out.