Vintage Pachinko Machines from USA Arcade

[BamBam]

Check out the three old style pachinko machines with cabinets I just bought. These were in a USA arcade at some point. They have been converted to sealed ball style machines. I'm not sure if they work but two of the three cabinets are in great shape and I can put one of my other machines in them if I want. Also good for parts as well. I think I can convert the coin draws into a ball return. I got all three for $125. These machines have ball counters and a coin mech to start the game. I might be able to get one working if the circut boards are any good. Any suggestions other than hooking up a power cord and see if they work? LOL

Pachinko Cabinets 007.jpgPachinko Cabinets 008.jpgPachinko Cabinets 005.jpgPachinko Cabinets 006.jpg

[Moparformances]

a few member have that style of converted machine.. there way cool when there working..

I have one but it was converted by a diff co so its layed out a bit different...

give it some time im sure someone can help ya get at least one working..

can ya post a pic of that ones that locked.. if it was kept locked it might be compleat??

[JACKSJE4]

I'm guessing these are the same machines: http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/crai...k-detroit.html

Congrats on your new Pachis!!

[BamBam]

a few member have that style of converted machine.. there way cool when there working..

I have one but it was converted by a diff co so its layed out a bit different...

give it some time im sure someone can help ya get at least one working..

can ya post a pic of that ones that locked.. if it was kept locked it might be compleat??

I spent some time getting the back of that one. It was complete and in good shape. I plugged it in and it worked except for the score unit doesn't light up and for some reason it's not paying the bonus balls. I took the cord off of the one that is in bad shape and put it on the other machine and that one works as well except the score unit doesn't light up either. That one is paying the bonus balls. I don't like the looks of either of the power supplies so I will get new ones and install them. The third machine will get stripped down for parts and the rest in the garbage since that cabinet is in bad shape. I also drilled out the lock on the only coin door that was locked and found a paper bag with misc parts and a 1974 quarter. Not bag of $100 bills that I was hoping to find. LOL
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I'm guessing these are the same machines: http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/crai...k-detroit.html

Congrats on your new Pachis!!

Yes the same machines. I liked the cabinets and I thought the price I ended up paying was fair especially since I found two of the machines are working.

[Moparformances]

glad to hear two are working..

[mxfaiman]

Those are cool machines. I have never seen the front trays painted all red like that. (kinda blah though cause it is all one color)

But 125 for all three is a good price.

Here is a thread of one of a members coin-op machines. http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...rnational.html (well more recent thread. And if you need anything Carlw visits almost daily. )

[BamBam]

Those are cool machines. I have never seen the front trays painted all red like that. (kinda blah though cause it is all one color)

But 125 for all three is a good price.

Here is a thread of one of a members coin-op machines. http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...rnational.html (well more recent thread. And if you need anything Carlw visits almost daily. )

Actually the trays aren't painted red at all. All the red portion is one piece molded plastic to fit over the original tray and controls so the balls are sealed and self contained. The user can't touch the balls at all. It is held on by rivets and I'm going to have to remove it to clean the tray. I may or may not put it back on.

[mxfaiman]

Actually the trays aren't painted red at all. All the red portion is one piece molded plastic to fit over the original tray and controls so the balls are sealed and self contained. The user can't touch the balls at all. It is held on by rivets and I'm going to have to remove it to clean the tray. I may or may not put it back on.

Wow that is really odd. A one piece plastic sleeve to fit over the tray. (that could explain why the parts merge so nicely)

[BamBam]

Okay update.

I have one of the machines 100% working. So now just a good cleaning and some cosmetic touch up.

The second machine is working 95% and the only thing it won't do is pay out the bonus balls. I've ruled it down to something on the circuit board as all the mechanicals and solenoids are working. So I thought I would try here for advice.

Basically what is not happening when you get a bonus ball win is the solenoid that triggers the bonus balls is not moving and the bell mech. is not ringing the bell. I know both of these things works as they both kick on when you start a game with a quarter. The solenoid that also resets the bonus mech where the winning ball rolls down to trigger the actual bonus ball is working as well.

Does anyone have any idea how to test the circuit board logic chips or could it be related to one of the three clear plastic parts on the bottom right of the board. Take a look at the pics and let me know if anyone has some suggestions.

pachinko circut board 001.jpgpachinko circut board 002.jpg

[BamBam]

Update. After a closer look I realized the three plastic parts are relays and are working. I switch out the relays from the working machine with this machine and no change with the bonus ball payout. So the relays are working. I think the problem is the machine thinks the ball bin is empty because that light is staying on. Since the circuit board basically replaces the switch that holds down the ball bin to indicate it is full, no bonus balls are paying out. It has to be one of the logic circuts or a bad resister or some other part in the board.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[SteveFury]

Since the circuit board basically replaces the switch that holds down the ball bin to indicate it is full, no bonus balls are paying out. It has to be one of the logic circuts or a bad resister or some other part in the board.

I am not familiar at all with your particular machine and I don't understand the board replacing the switch (Unless it's an optical switch).

If you don't mind me asking, what is your aptitude at understanding electronics troubleshooting? Are you able to use a VOM? You have at least one working machine which is a big +++.

I assume you've already verified all the mechanical things in it are working properly and are testing it with enough quantity of balls. Probably the next level of likely failure would be bad switches, open solonoid coils or solonoid reverse current diodes going bad (Which can blow a board). The next possible failure would be plugs/connectors if there are any on your machine. The board itself is probably the last thing to fail.

If you are proficient with a VOM, I'd use it to compare the working machine with the non-working one to find the failure point.

[BamBam]

I am not familiar at all with your particular machine and I don't understand the board replacing the switch (Unless it's an optical switch).

If you don't mind me asking, what is your aptitude at understanding electronics troubleshooting? Are you able to use a VOM? You have at least one working machine which is a big +++.

I assume you've already verified all the mechanical things in it are working properly and are testing it with enough quantity of balls. Probably the next level of likely failure would be bad switches, open solonoid coils or solonoid reverse current diodes going bad (Which can blow a board). The next possible failure would be plugs/connectors if there are any on your machine. The board itself is probably the last thing to fail.

If you are proficient with a VOM, I'd use it to compare the working machine with the non-working one to find the failure point.

It's basically a electrical mechanical concept like the old pinball machines with the circuit board taking over the function of re-setting the playfield, paying the bonus balls and giving you the playballs (12 total) for 25 cents. I had two years electronics in high school, but I am rusty on my electronic terminology. I do have a multimeter I use to test and repair old pinball machines. If you could point me to the direction or give me some suggestions on how to set the meter and how to read the results, I should be able to figure it out.

Thanks for you help.

[BamBam]

I am not familiar at all with your particular machine and I don't understand the board replacing the switch (Unless it's an optical switch).

If you don't mind me asking, what is your aptitude at understanding electronics troubleshooting? Are you able to use a VOM? You have at least one working machine which is a big +++.

I assume you've already verified all the mechanical things in it are working properly and are testing it with enough quantity of balls. Probably the next level of likely failure would be bad switches, open solonoid coils or solonoid reverse current diodes going bad (Which can blow a board). The next possible failure would be plugs/connectors if there are any on your machine. The board itself is probably the last thing to fail.

If you are proficient with a VOM, I'd use it to compare the working machine with the non-working one to find the failure point.

Here's the multimeter I have
http://www.amazon.com/Ramsey-Electro.../dp/B00068U24A

[SteveFury]

The meter you have is fine, just use it the same as you would for troubleshooting a pinball machine. If you want to test a switch then the best meter to use is an analog meter.