Need Help: Reconnecting wires to leaf switches

[JACKSJE4]

I have run into this issue before, but always found another way to overcome the obstacle. Today I am not so fortunate.

I am trying to repair two leaf switches where the soldered wires came off the contact point in the end of the switch. I thought I could load the end of the wire up with some solder and then, while it was still hot, stick the wire into the leaf switch and get it to adhere to the contact metal. This worked for a little while, but the loosly soldered ends keek coming off.

In the past I have replaced the "broken" leaf switch with an extra from a parts machine, or I used a different type of switch that I found at Radio Shack. The way this machine is designed requires that I re-use the leaf switches that came with it, or the same design from another machine (which I don't have).

Has anyone had success with reconnecting the wires to this type of switch? If so, what tools did you use and what was your technique?

[cardwwi]

Yes I have reconnected the wires to several of these switches. The technique I use is I place the switch in a small vice to hold it steady. Then I take an emory board and clean the connections really good. I have a very fine point soldering iron. The tip on the soldering iron needs to be cleaned really good on a damp sponge once it's hot. Dab a little solder flux on the switch connections. Put a little solder on the soldering iron tip, put the wire on the back side of the switch touching the metal and then touch the iron to it. It should flow fairly quickly. Remove the iron and let it cool.

[Gilly]

Is it possible to remove the leafs so you can solder on it without worrying about melting the housing?

[JACKSJE4]

Yes I have reconnected the wires to several of these switches. The technique I use is I place the switch in a small vice to hold it steady. Then I take an emory board and clean the connections really good. I have a very fine point soldering iron. The tip on the soldering iron needs to be cleaned really good on a damp sponge once it's hot. Dab a little solder flux on the switch connections. Put a little solder on the soldering iron tip, put the wire on the back side of the switch touching the metal and then touch the iron to it. It should flow fairly quickly. Remove the iron and let it cool.

Thanks Bill. I think I need to get a much smaller/finer point for my soldering iron, as well as a stronger pair of glasses to see inside the leaf switch while I am working on it.

I'm glad to know someone has been successful repairing these switches because they seem to come apart fairly easily. It's encouraging to me to know that repair is possible with the right tools.
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Is it possible to remove the leafs so you can solder on it without worrying about melting the housing?

The metal leaves are melted into the plastic housing and I cannot see a way to get the leaves out without destroying the plastic. I was tempted to cut open the back end to access the contact points, but thought I should post for help first before I went down that road. I'm glad I did.

[Moparformances]

only had this happen once..

i removed the half of the swich tha was bad... resoldered it with ease and then used my hot iron to melt the plastic a bit once replaced...

mine was easy to remove but im sure some are held in tight

[mudfud]

ttc and I say replace the switch with a micro. or, there are leaf switches for cheap on surplus. i have some if you want me to send one.

[JACKSJE4]

ttc and I say replace the switch with a micro. or, there are leaf switches for cheap on surplus. i have some if you want me to send one.

Where do you find replacement leaf switches? Are they the same as can be found on these pachis? I have serached and searched, but have never found replacements.

Normally, I would use a micro switch, however the leaf switches came off a late 70's Nishijin B, so they mount on pre-fab holes in the plastic backing. If they attached to the plywood like the older ones do, then they would be easy to replace.

I'm going to try Cardwwi's solution tomorrow. Personally, I prefer any idea that involves buying a new tool.

[Microbus99]

I've struggled with this as well. Its hard to get it right without melting the plastic but it can be done.

Just need the right tools and a little patience.

[mudfud]

Here's the link to the picture of the parts. Let me know if you want a lead switch. I just gooped the switch in place. The broken plastic ones on myachines werent worth trying to fix.
http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...ace-parts.html

[sharmoni]

If you can get a good angle with a very small metal cutting Dremel drill, you might be able to put holes in the end of each leaf so your wire will loop through, as well be soldered.

[TailTrauma]

Sharmoni's answer gave me a thought.

Question: Is end of the leaf you want to solder fused to the back? Or free on three sides? If you could slip a wire around behind it, here's an idea:

-Strip several inches of thin stranded wire bare.
-Double it up and twist to make a noose.
-Slip the noose over the end of the leaf.
-Twist to tighten.
-Apply heat to the twisted wire, and flow solder down the wire to the noose.

You could use small shrink tubing to insulate after you've made the joint and make attachments to the 'terminals' you've created.

[mudfud]

say jeff,

how about you use some of the new carbon solder glue after you twist the wire around the ends of the leaves, and wedge a wood or plastic shim between the two leaves to keep the contact good?

rich and I were talking about this new wire glue, and I thought I would try some. I read that if you're trying to repair a broken trace on a circuit board, that it doesn't conduct well enough, but if you could get a reasonable mechanical contact, this would probably hold well enough

Wire Glue

ThinkGeek :: "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue

anyone here tried the stuff?

I did a bit more searching, and there is also conductive silver paint used to repair boards and traces on window defrosters. this could work, too.

I will get some of the carbon stuff and let you all know.

[takethecastle57]

Rear Defrost Repair Kit

[mudfud]

hey rich. you have any graphite for locks around?

you can make your own carbon, conductive glue with the paint-on electrical tape and graphite, ratio 2:3... found it on instructibles.

going to home depot to get a small tube of the graphite and try it

should make quicky repairs in areas that aren't open to soldering easier.

[takethecastle57]

Nahhh I have silver bearing solder and a 15 watt grounded soldering iron with solder flux paste . but I am getting the rear defroster grid repair kit from IPD . Get the $3.99 solder glue from thinkgeek less trouble

[takethecastle57]

Here's the kit for the "Vintage " Pachinko's on ebay . It also works as a nice shopping list for parts too


Pachinko Machine Light Kit 110V Transformer PowerSupply - eBay (item 370345294253 end time Nov-15-10 22:56:34 PST)

[takethecastle57]

Pachinko Machine Light Kit - 9 Volt Battery - eBay (item 370345292379 end time Nov-02-10 00:56:42 PDT)
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THE BEST synthetic oil for Pachinko, PLEASE READ!!! - eBay (item 230524970830 end time Nov-10-10 09:11:21 PST)

[JACKSJE4]

OK... heres an update to my original issue.

I took cardwwi's advice and put the switch in a small clamp to hold it steady. I found a new soldering iron at Radio Shack that had assorted tips. One was a fine point bent at an angle and it worked perfectly! Next I went to Home Depot to get some flux, but found some soldering paste in the plumbing isle that contained both solder and flux combined, and it adhered at a very low temp. It was rated for both plumbing and electronics, so I thought I would give it a try.

The last thing I needed was a stronger prescription in my eyeglasses so that I could see the small parts, but that was going to take too long. So I looked on good ol' Craigslist and found someone selling one of those flex arm magnifying glass thingy's with a flourescent light inside. I clamped it to my workbench and VOILA! I could see!!

The first few soldering attempts didn't hold, but I eventually got the hang of it. The solder paste worked like a charm!! I did melt the plastic on the first switch quite a bit, but once I got the wires connected and installed it on the machine you couldn't tell. The second one came out MUCH better!!

In all of the excitement after completing the repair and strutting around my workshop like a total dork hooting an hollering like an ape in heat, I forgot to take "after" photos of the switches before I reinstalled them on the machine. I did take a photo of the soldering iron and flux paste that I found, so it will have to suffice.

Thanks to all for your suggestions, encouragement and assistance!! I will no longer toss these leaf switches out when the connections come off.

Jeff

[junkbox]

ThinkGeek :: "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue

anyone here tried the stuff?

oh you bet! stuff is technologically amazing and it's cheap. Little repairs where you don't want heat, perfect. I have a feeling they're changing the formula as they go because the conductivity and adhesiveness is not always constant between batches, I have 2 batches at home and 1 at the office and they're not the same. It has it's flaws and I like to coat the finished connection with super glue just to make it stick. I think it'll be perfected and become a real solution for inexpensive no heat soldering.

For now though, I'll stick with silver epoxy. Amazon.com: Chemtronics CW2400 2 X 7 Gram Tubes Conductive Epoxy: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & more

I soldered enough as a kid.