Arangeball Lights

[NJ_Mike]

I should probably also mention that the wattage rating doesn't necessarily translate directly to the brightness, but should be a good guideline when comparing bulbs that are similar types (one more edit/add - for ex. LED's will consume much less power than incandescent bulbs for the same brightness). That is - power consumption doesn't necessarily equal brightness. However, you can use it as a rough guideline to compare bulbs running on various voltage sources.

[Moparformances]

ok if im understanding you right

im looking for somthing that would be a 9 volt bulb with a .12 or so amp rating to get the 1.08 watts of lights.. this would be bright like my other bulbs...

or a 10 volt bulb with a .1 or so amp rating to get the 1 watt of light...

in short i have to have 9 or 10 volt bulb and would like the watts to end up as close to 1.1 watts as possable... if my final watts end up being more then 1.1 i think there will be too much heat... does this all make sense??

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another question... if i found a 14 volt bulb with a higher amp rating that would give me more watts... if i pluged that into my 10 volt power source could i end up with a bright lite??

thanks for the feedback Mike

[NJ_Mike]

ok if im understanding you right

im looking for somthing that would be a 9 volt bulb with a .12 or so amp rating to get the 1.08 watts of lights.. this would be bright like my other bulbs...

or a 10 volt bulb with a .1 or so amp rating to get the 1 watt of light...

in short i have to have 9 or 10 volt bulb and would like the watts to end up as close to 1.1 watts as possable... if my final watts end up being more then 1.1 i think there will be too much heat... does this all make sense??

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another question... if i found a 14 volt bulb with a higher amp rating that would give me more watts... if i pluged that into my 10 volt power source could i end up with a bright lite??

thanks for the feedback Mike

Mopar - I hate to do this to you but - some of the bulb's brightness and also heat generated is going to be related to how efficient the bulb is. So if you want to be somewhat accurate moving up and down voltages, I would stick with the same "line" of bulbs from the same manufacturer.

So your math is correct, but I would recommend staying as close to the voltage of the bulb as possible. You'd be better off getting a higher rated bulb in the same voltage than trying to experiment and see if a higher voltage and amperage would generate more light and less heat at a lower voltage.

To add further confusion - Brightness is actually measured in Lumens and energy efficiency is expressed in Lumens per watt. I don't know if those small bulbs have specs that include either of those measurements. Also look to see if the spec's have an operating range, like 8 - 24Volts or something like that, it would give a little more confidence in the calculations based on changing voltages.

As I mentioned above, Watts doesn't necessarily translate directly to brightness, but it seems to be what most manufacturers use. You may have to experiment with a few to see what works best. I looked at some of the links you provided and naturally, there isn't a ton of information on the bulbs there.
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How about this one:

2182D - 1.12 Watt, 14 Volt, 0.08 Amp T-1 3/4 Miniature Bulb

It has specs, showing 0.3 MSCP as the brightness. I had to look that one up and found out:

What is MSCP?

MSCP refers to MEAN SPHERICAL CANDLEPOWER.

Mean spherical candlepower (MSCP) rating is measured at the design voltage and is the total amount of light given off from a light source in ALL directions.

One MSCP is equivalent to all the light emitted from all directions of one standard spermaceti candle.

Mean spherical candlepower is the generally accepted method of rating the total light output of miniature lamps.

1 MSCP equals 12.57 (4 pi) lumens

For what all that is worth.

[Lt Teddy]

Well after alot of phone calls and alot of looking I have ordered the only thing I could find on anybodies shelfs. I found four 2162 bulbs and four 2182 bulbs and had them mailed to Mopar.
Should get them in a couple of days and we will see what the results of these two are.

Part of the problem with this whole light bulb situation is that they literally have to make them. Nobody has them in stock and they are not used for much anymore. I am sure Mopar will post the results of these and I hope that the 2182 is the right one. I had this information from eddie earlier but they are sure hard to find in stock.

Thanks for all of the comments and if anybody has any more fell free.

And Mike thank you but it is all greek to me.

[Moparformances]

thanks Mike

hope to have this sorted out so others dont have to deal with the same problems

more to come in the coming days..

[Cystic]

Sorry to come late to this conversation and maybe I missed some but what about converting to LEDs?

I find that two warm white and and one bright white LED equal any small incandescent bulb.(at 1/4th the watts)

I happen to be in the small plastic mold making mode just now. Send me a burnt bulb and I will try to make a base to hold the LED equivalent if you like.

Send a functional bulb and I will make a better match.(a base would be a huge bonus)

I will need some for myself soon so I might as well use an original.

[emmadog]

Hmmm...you may be on to something there. LED's would be nice and bright. I wonder thoughif they make LED's to run off of that voltage or could the common ones found at Radio Shack be used but with the appropriate resistance?

[compirate]

Is the power to the lights AC or DC? If AC, I think your outta luck, if DC, just put the appropriate resistor in the circuit (one for each LED).

[Moparformances]

Sorry to come late to this conversation and maybe I missed some but what about converting to LEDs?

I find that two warm white and and one bright white LED equal any small incandescent bulb.(at 1/4th the watts)

I happen to be in the small plastic mold making mode just now. Send me a burnt bulb and I will try to make a base to hold the LED equivalent if you like.

Send a functional bulb and I will make a better match.(a base would be a huge bonus)

I will need some for myself soon so I might as well use an original.

well call me stupid or call me purest.. but im not interested in converting... dont know how and worried about originalality.. (there only original once)

but i wonder if the holders your talking about would be possable for the incandesant bulbs??? is the plastic you use really hard or kinda hard.. since the contact point between the circuit board and the bulb is a friction contact point the holder would need to have some give and take

[emmadog]

Cystic, the holders for these lamps are small silicone cups withtwo holes in the base for the bulb's wires to go thru. I don't know if they make a casting material similar to the original material with similar properties.
I was wondering if they made a hi temp silicone in a tube. If so it could be squirted into the right diameter straw the allowed to cure. You could them cut it into the right length sections and poke two holes into each one with a stick pin. It wouldn't have the cup shape but that wouldn't really matter.

[Cystic]

I fully understand keeping it original. I have seen LED replacement bulbs used on a pinball machine and they looked great so I thought they might do double duty in this application by eliminating the heat and replacement issues. LEDs can be used on AC they just blink at half the frequency.

Anyway on to bulbs. I did not see the JKL 2107 mentioned above. It is 10v and much brighter than the 1869. Found this handy chart below and the website has an inventory locator.

http://www.jkllamps.com/files/STANDARD%20T-1%203_47.pdf

JKL Components Corporation


Are the silicone cups necessary? What do they do? Are they just a standoff or do they protect the board from heat? both?

Casting them should not be a problem. I would just need an original for a week or two.

The silicone I have right now is soft and flexable. It is also pink. The plastic I have sets hard like injection molded plastic. It can be made any colour.

[Moparformances]

Are the silicone cups necessary? What do they do? Are they just a standoff or do they protect the board from heat? both?

Casting them should not be a problem. I would just need an original for a week or two.

The silicone I have right now is soft and flexable. It is also pink. The plastic I have sets hard like injection molded plastic. It can be made any colour.

if you have a ability to cast silicone ill send ya a holder in the mail asap

i actualy have a newer one from a mordern machine so ya can feel the texture of it for a compairson

color does not matter its never seen.. i must say that pink would not be my first choice but like i said its not seen unless ya open the machine up

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[Moparformances]

Finally finally finally got it sorted

got two more bulb shipped in..

a thanks to Eddie for the recomendation of bulb 2182.. thats the ticket.. has good light not to bright to worry about heat but plenty to see what numbers are lite..

also got 2162.. i think a great bulb nice and bright.. a real good bulb.. but i think its a bit to bright and im conserned about heat and melting.. might be ok and never have a problem..

thanks every one for there help and imput on this long problem

now all i need is some silacone to hold my bulbs

[Eddie]

Sorry to come late to this conversation and maybe I missed some but what about converting to LEDs?

I find that two warm white and and one bright white LED equal any small incandescent bulb.(at 1/4th the watts)

I happen to be in the small plastic mold making mode just now. Send me a burnt bulb and I will try to make a base to hold the LED equivalent if you like.

Send a functional bulb and I will make a better match.(a base would be a huge bonus)

I will need some for myself soon so I might as well use an original.

I have been thinking of converting all of my machines to LEDs for these reasons

Next to no Heat which saves the plastics from warping around the bulbs.
Less current needed which prolongs board life.
Much longer life then bulbs.
Less heat saves board components.
Leds can be color matched to enhance certain machine colors.

This holds true for Pinball machines which I have already gone the LED route with save some bulbs for the warmer color that they give off.

Pachinko and Pachislo Machines need al the help that they can get to keep them going as in most cases their parts cannot be replaced. Heat or damp conditions are the worst enemy.

Thats why aside of the LEDs I have a dehumidifier in the room with the machines.

[emmadog]

I'm all about keeping things original on these machines as much as possible but I like the benefits of LEDs. I think if the lights were exposed and not behind a colored lens or a number, then I'd stick to original lights for sure since I do like the warmer color. But when I get around to it I'll change to LEDs. I don't remember now what mini lamp I put in there that was too hot but along with that it had great brightness. The lit number jumped out so to speak and I think LED's can reproduce that effect.