Restoration Challenge: 1950’s Nishijin Single Shot

[JACKSJE4]

I have restored quite a few Pachi’s, but never one like this!

Like almost everyone in this forum, I really enjoy a good challenge from time to time, and Sharmoni was gracious enough to provide me with a big one. He asked me if I would consider restoring one of the antique pachi’s from his amazing collection.

It’s a 1950s Nishijin "Kabuki" single shot that is in pretty rough shape. There is more information and cool video on his original post for this machine.

http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...pot-video.html

After examining the machine, it was obvious that it was stored in a very damp climate before Sharmoni rescued it, and it had even been wet for a period of time based on the water stains to the back of the machine. All of the metal on the back is heavily rusted and pitted, and the few plastic pieces that were used in the mechanics are very, very brittle. The front had been painted with house paint and several of the win pockets are heavily rusted. Amazingly, the cell is in pretty good condition.

I have posted some close-up photos so that you can all weigh in on restoration options.

My biggest challenge will be removing all of the rust and associated pitting; both on the outside and inside surfaces (ball paths, etc). I tested a small area with steel wool (#000, then #00, then #1) and it did a pretty good job, but it is messy and would be difficult to use effectively inside the ball paths and in the nooks and crannies. I plan to try some CLR next (as Mudfud would suggest) and see if the results are any better/quicker. I’m sure the smaller pieces would do well in a tumbler, but the larger pieces won’t fit.

Additionally, removing the rust and pitting from the chrome win pockets on the play field will undoubtedly remove the chrome with it, so I am open to some options there. Sharmoni has a silver plating machine, but has never used it, so I would really prefer NOT experimenting on something so irreplaceable (well, maybe as a very last resort).

Anyway, like Shock, I will document my progress as often as I can and listen to the wonderful advice that is consistently offered in this forum. Unlike him though, I will work au naturel (i.e. no gloves!)

Jeff

[ShockSystem]

I like my gloves. They keep junk out from under my fingernails.

[Moparformances]

something that would be lightning fast... sand blasting with a soft media like walnut shells .. but a word to the wise be verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry carefull a blaster will make quick work of it but will destroy something just as fast

good luck to ya

[JACKSJE4]

something that would be lightning fast... sand blasting with a soft media like walnut shells .. but a word to the wise be verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry carefull a blaster will make quick work of it but will destroy something just as fast

good luck to ya

Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't considered sand blasting. That might be a good solution for the all metal pieces, and most are metal (tin and brass).

Since I am not an experienced sand blaster, do you think it would clean the rust and pitting from the inside, hard to reach areas? For instance, there is a ball drain "tube" on the left side that needs to be cleaned both on the inside and outside. Would sand blasting reach inside the tube?

Jeff

[Moparformances]

it sure would... but u might consider a acid bath as well.. it will get rid of all the rust but use a heavy tsp or baking soda solution to neutralize it when your done.. phrase

but again i have to insert the "Danger Will Robinson" phrase

blasting a tube is going to get the ends of the tube really clean but the middle is not going to get very clean..

if your going to use either of these be careful and go slow

watch the blasting if u stay on one spot to long u will create allot of heat and start to warp and twist the metal

[takethecastle57]

set of 10 MIRACLE POLISHING CLOTHS silver brass chrome - eBay (item 250393828040 end time Apr-20-09 15:05:16 PDT)


No, I don't get a "Cut" of the profits from the sale of these . they just work .

[ShockSystem]

Mopar is correct,

I used to do a lot of blasting on small precision parts - Until I had to leave my blast cabinet behind when I moved (grrr). Use slow and even motion. My suggestion would be fine media like 70 or 80 gr (light). It takes very little time to get the hang of it. Test a part first for its reaction in a non critical and inconspicuous area, then adjust pressure starting from a low setting moving up as needed to make things easier and quicker for removal of grime and corrosion (like running a bath for a kid - start with cold water and make it warm). Bead blasters can make quick work of rust, corrosion and finishing - I really miss mine on my current project.

Good luck (but you won't need it),
- Shock

[Moparformances]

set of 10 MIRACLE POLISHING CLOTHS silver brass chrome - eBay (item 250393828040 end time Apr-20-09 15:05:16 PDT)


No, I don't get a "Cut" of the profits from the sale of these . they just work .

i think u should get a %... as hard as u recommend those cloths i might have to try one

[JACKSJE4]

set of 10 MIRACLE POLISHING CLOTHS silver brass chrome - eBay (item 250393828040 end time Apr-20-09 15:05:16 PDT)


No, I don't get a "Cut" of the profits from the sale of these . they just work .

I ordered one of those last week and it arrived on Friday. I bought it to use on brass and chrome, but I didn't think it was made for rusty tin. I will give it a try.

I disassembled most of the back of the machine and am soaking some of the more rusted parts in a solution of CLR and hot water. It seems to be removing the rust color, but not the pitting. I have been using a toothbrush to get inside the ball paths and get them clean. I then threw some of the smaller parts in the tumbler with walnut shells to see if that would smooth them. I guess time will tell.

Thanks for reminding me about the miracle cloth!

Jeff

[JACKSJE4]

Ok... tried the miracle cloth. WOW!! I am a true believer!! It works wonders on chrome, brass and copper, but it does turn your hands black in the process.

Unfortunately it didn't fare as well on the rusted tin. I think I will continue using a combination of wire brush, steel wool, CLR and the tumbler. I would like to try the sand blasting, but I don't have the equipment and don't know where to go to get it done. Fortunately I am about half way through the "de-rusting" process so I will continue with what I have.

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far and please keep them coming! They have been very helpful.

Jeff

[luckydog]

the solution is blue rubber gloves

[JACKSJE4]

the solution is blue rubber gloves

Good one!

...but I prefer to work in the buff.

[new in town]

[luckydog]

[ShockSystem]

Wow, this is rich!

Nitrile is your friend - The solution is always blue gloves.

You guys are great!

- Shock

[takethecastle57]

Wow, this is rich!

Nitrile is your friend - The solution is always blue gloves.

You guys are great!

- Shock

"Two by Two Hands of Blue " River Tamm Firefly/ Serenity

[chmer01]

I would like to try the sand blasting, but I don't have the equipment and don't know where to go to get it done.
Jeff

Some of the larger hardware stores rent equipment out. Don't know if they have these but it's a place to start. Check your yellow pages to see if there is a sandblasting service near you.

[digital1]

Has any one else tried using aluminum foil to clean parts? I used it on the chrome on the front of mine and it worked well, but turned my fingers gray.

I should have been wearing gloves!

Chrome Cleaning

[ShockSystem]

Awesome advice! This works great. But now I have more work to do... or go back to re do.

OK, how am I supposed to look like a super genius when I did not know about this!

I guess I don't have to worry about the whole glove thing.

[JACKSJE4]

After experimenting with all of the advice you have provided, I have successfully cleaned the rust and tarnish from the metal pieces on the back of the machine. (Take a look at the before and after photos below)

For the metal I started with a wire brush to remove the major ‘blooms” of rust, then placed them into a CLR bath for about an hour, scrubbing all surfaces, nooks and crannies with a toothbrush. Once dried, I wiped the surfaces down with #00 steel wool and polished with Blue Magic metal polish. The coloration is not what I ultimately would like to see, but it’s MUCH better that what I started with and I think it’s the best I can expect.

For the brass pieces I started with a short CLR bath (about 10 minutes) and then used the Miracle Cloth to get the awesome shine. I did throw some of the smaller brass and metal pieces into the tumbler with walnut shells after the CLR bath, but it didn’t seem to do much for them.

Now I need to make a decision on how to remove the water stains on the back before I begin to reassemble the back. The stained paper in the photo is covered with a plastic film (similar to the cell on the front), so I would need to somehow get under the film to clean up the paper. I thought that a light bleach and water solution would mellow the discoloration, but I don’t know if it would penetrate the film, or if it did, would it ruin the paper. Any ideas you have to minimize or remote the water stains would be welcome!!

I still have a few more pieces to remove and de-rust, and I hope to get those done this weekend. Then I can begin working on the front of the machine!

Jeff