Sankyo Payout Stopped

[koifeeder]

Hey Team, I am having one heck of a time, my Sankyo just stopped paying out, and I can not figure out why. There is a small button on the black module that I think is the payout control board, I have pressed it with no luck. There is also a keyswitch on the main board, I don't have a key, but with a little effort, I have been able to turn it, and the #3 LED lights up. There are 3 leds on the Mainboard above the keylock labled 1,2,3.

I have disconnected all cables from the mainboard and the payout board. I have pulled the payout motor, cleaned it, and put it back. The unit doesn't make any noise like it is attempting to payout. The ball that triggers the payout just sits in the detector switch, which normally gets kicked out by a solenoid after the payout has happened. The detector switch is one of the electronic kind, with the magnetic field sensor, so I don't know how to test it.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!

-John

[compirate]

CR Fever Aya

1995

フィーバー彩

That key and the led are for setting the odds - yes folks, there was a time (only in that year I believe) that you could change the odds.

【Setting 1】 1/317 → 1/52.8
【Setting 2】 1/327 → 1/54.5
【Setting 3】 1/337 → 1/56.1

So there's no led digit or anything else showing an error anywhere?

That is the reset button - turn the machine off, press and hold the button and turn the machine back on. Wait a second or two and release the button.

[compirate]

How to change the odds:

With the power off, insert the key and turn it to the left. When you turn on the power, one of the LED's should light up, this is it's current setting. To change the setting, turn the key to the right. Repeating this left-right will change the odds again. When you are done, center the key and remove, the LED should go out

[Youngjedi]

Maybe it needs a stimulous package!

[koifeeder]

Oh No!

Well, I messed with the odds on the payout, that seemed to work fine, I then tried the reset button trick, noluck, so ever persistent, I took off the card interface, and found that there was a fuse inside of that, and it was blown? So, i replaced the fuse, turned it on, so happy, but all of a sudden, I heard a strange noise, faint humming. Was it a happy squirrel in my attic, no it wasn't. Then about a half a second later, I released the genie out of the bottle, only there was not 3 wishes. I seen Smoke, and yanked the cord out of the wall. I followed the smell, it came from the card interface dongle cheater plug thing. Removed the dongle, Opened it , and proceeded to put my finger on the heatsink,bad idea.

So, my hopes are... Something in the dongle shot craps, blew the fuse, I replaced the fuse evidently with one that was too high amperage, adn the dongle decided to really go bad.

So now I just to get/build a new dongle. Worse case, something in the payout control board is shot to crap. Hmmm time to search the forums on how to build a dongle.

[new in town]

koifeeder, PM me your Mailing address and one wil be on the way. I have a few extra here.

[daverob]

Everything you need to know about the card reader interface connector and the CR bypass dongle should be on this page. If you want to know something that isn't there, then let me know and I'll update the site.*

The good thing is that the card reader connections on the payout control boards of most machines are pretty well protected against problems like this, so there shouldn't be any major damage. Worst case I suspect would be some burning of the 24vAC traces on the PCB if they weren't up to the current that made it through the 'uprated' fuse.

You should be able to check the machine to see if it's outputting 24vAC on pins 1 and 25, then with a working dongle in place check that you are getting around 18vDC between pins 8 or 9 and pins 17 or 18. This voltage should be able to be traced back on the payout control board to an opto-isolator and the operation of this part can be checked as well.

If none of this works then post a clear picture of the payout control board, and I'm sure we can come up with some other tests to perform.


* Though please don't ask for the protocol and signal timings necessary to get the machine to pay out loan balls, It took me a good few months of reverse engineering to figure them out.

[compirate]

An interesting note on machines of this vintage, the power supply is part of the game specific odds/lights/sound control board, instead of being a separate entity. The black case below that is the CR and payout control board.

[koifeeder]

Thanks yall! You guys are the best. $7 bucks of stuff at the rat shack, I built a new dongle, but when I put it on, still didn't work. So took pinballs advice and started tracing it out. Couldn't find any bad wires, so off with the cover of the black box. Cover comes off, and what do I find...Another Fuse, decorated in a lovely color of splattered sliver and black. This time, reading the fuse rating, it was 1.5a, only had 1amp, so under rated is much better than over. I popped the fuse in, turned it back on, the familar "im pizzed off" beeping started, the reels went to home position, the beeping stopped. I popped a ball in, and Bingo, out came balls!

So, I guess the old dongle just gave up? I have attached a picture of the old dongle and the new one. Yeah, I know the leads are long, but I was just testing The Old one actually had a full wave bridge rect, with only 1/2 of it used, and a ka7818 Voltage regulator, taking the place of our resistor. The vreg is where I got burned when I tested to see if it was warm.

I guess the my nerves took several milliseconds to say "Hey, its freggin hot, remove your finger!"

anyway, all appears well. I will shorten the leds and put it back into the case the old one was in.

Thanks again everyone!!!

(PS, now should I open a ticket to find out why my sankyo Downtown CRT went blank and won't show an image. Just can't wait until I get knocked silly by the fly-back transformer!)