Freddy vs. Jason help requested

[Leatherwolf]

I received a Freddy vs. Jason pachinko for Christmas of 2007 (Im a huge N.O.E.S. collector and try to get everything involving Freddy). Anyways, I have some questions about it:

1) After I "win" and I start collecting the balls. The machine seems to go into music mode for about 10 mins. I could still play, but it wont shut up. Why does it do that?

2) Is there any way to adjust the lower volume?

3) Is there anywhere to get instructions to how to play this game? Or is it a lot of guess work?

4) What do all the buttons do?

I know these are kind of remidial questions, but like I said. This is my first machine, and Im entirely clueless. Any help would be helpful. Thanks.

[Chrisdice]

Try reading FAQ in the research center. Most of your questions should be answered there. Welcome to Pachitalk.

[JohnD0406]

I don't know about you guys, but the research center has been offline for days now, different browsers, different computers, in different locations. When it's back up however, it's a great place to start. I read posts and browsed the research center for months. I'll try to answer your questions, but being a relative noob myself I'm sure someone will correct me if I get something wrong!

1) You're winning. It's supposed to be exciting. If you don't like the music, you can install a volume control and turn it down.

2) Volume controls. The 3-way volume switch on the back is nearly useless, as the quiet mode is still screaming loud. Sometimes importers and dealers will try to sell you these tiny pots to adjust volume. Those are very bad, and completely the wrong thing to do with an audio signal. You need what's called an "L-Pad", but you'll have to wire it up. I use a 15W stereo L-pad on my machines. Parts Express:L-Pad 15W Stereo 1" Shaft 8 Ohm

3) Instructions are hard to find for specific machines, but overall gameplay can be learned through the web, forum posts here, and the research center.

4) All the buttons... push! Depends on the machine. Your best bet is the research center when it's back online.

Every first-time owner was clueless, and all of us keep learning new things about our machines as we play them and follow the forums here. This won't be your last machine...

[Eddie]

Welcome to the show!!!

For volume controls that are easy to use and very much failsafe for all machines.

http://www.autoslot.info/pachitalk

[JohnD0406]

Those are EXACTLY the ones I was saying to stay far away from, if you want to keep your machine in good working order for years to come. All that "volume control" is, is a variable resistor. Impedance is not kept constant, and you can easily work the amp too hard, to the point it gives up. I've heard of many cases of "machine has no sound anymore", and that's the primary reason. Sure, those "volume controls" are small, cheap, and convenient, but they're not good for your machine.

[drcrippen324]

oh boy here we go on the volume controle debate again all any analouge volume controle is, is a variable resistor

Welcome to pachitalk Leatherwolf a funny farm of information laughs and fun

[JohnD0406]

True, however the L-Pad maintains a consisten load to the amp, as well as is able to handle the power these machines are rated to deliver. I'm too new here myself to have seen any previous debates, so that being the case, sorry to have started a debate.

Here's more info on L-Pads, and with this link, I digress...

http://www.bcae1.com/lpad.htm

[musky]

JohnD I have been saying the same thing about those pots, I don't use them either for the same reasons. It's a mute point here because everyone loves them.
As for Freddy vs. Jason, the 10 minutes of music is a fever round. There are 14 levels in a fever round and it takes time to get through them. Getting to a fever round is the point of the game. Freddy is fairly complex when it comes to game play. There are several ways to a fever round. I have played the game a lot and have not figured them all out yet. The buttons are use to select which player you want to be ie Freddy or Jason. They also come in play during a game to assist you in a reach. If it lights up during play push it...a lot. It's an interactive part of game play

[Supersaiyan]

All that "volume control" is, is a variable resistor. Impedance is not kept constant, and you can easily work the amp too hard, to the point it gives up.

I'm a newbie too. Please explain what kind of device there should be other than variable resistor? I'm sure for most people variable resistors will just work ok. I still understand it can stress the sound board (at least when the sound is muted completely). How you did it?

[Chrisdice]

Wouldn't the volume control fry before there is any damage to the amp? I lost a few volume controls before but "knock on wood" never had a problem with the amp.

[musky]

Hey, I wouldn't worry about it after all the amps for these things are a dime a dozen. Parts just fall off trees.
______________________________________________________
Here's a link on Freddy

http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/loca...=6&linkid=1536

[daverob]

As far as I'm concerned as long as your variable resistor can cope with the power coming out of the amplifier, then there's no problem.

The simple integrated circuit amplifiers used in pachinko machines are generally not affected by the output impedance. They don't have any current feedback circuits (so the amplifier has to work in a voltage feedback mode), and so it's impossible for it to increase the output current into a higher impedance load and be 'worked too hard'. In fact the increased impedance will reduce the current and cause the amplifier to 'work' less hard.

The only thing that can be a problem is distortion, with less current flowing in the output stages of the amplifier, there is an increased likelihood of crossover distortion. Also with the internal volume control on a high setting, there is likely to be more general distortion (ie non-linearity, clipping etc) from the amplifier than there would be if the audio was attenuated before the amplifier (but this wouldn't be any different if an L-Pad was used).

You will naturally get more 'Machine has no sound' problems with small undersized variable resistors, if the resistor itself burns up. But I'm willing to bet that there is no increase in probability of failure of the amplifiers themselves than there is with an L-Pad.


BTW an L-Pad is simply another form of variable resistor, the difference is that it is constructed so that it always takes the same amount of power from the amplifier as the speaker would on it's own. It is essentially two variable resistors in one package, one that reduces the power going to the speaker, and a second one that compensates for the reduced power going to the speaker by increasing it's load on the amplifier.

Their main use is to adjust the amount of power going to each driver in a multi-way speaker system, where it's vitally important to keep the impedances constant as the performance of the crossover network would be affected if the output impedance is changed. They have a second use as a speaker side volume control, but this is only really necessary for amplifiers that use current feedback in their output stages (ie some valve amplifier designs and a few esoteric audiophile type designs).

[new in town]

I'll throw my 2 cents in.

I converted all my Pachislo's and Pachinko's over to the Mono and Stereo L-Pads from Parts Express. The main reason was I am now able to adjust the volume from outside of the machines at will with out having to open them up.

People that come over are BLOWN AWAY by the sound of them when turned up full blast. They can't believe that much sound comes out of such a small speaker. And the L-Pad does away with the distortion problems when the volume is set real low. The L-Pads are beefy rated at 15 watts which will handle any machine

It took awhile to wire up 25 machines and some of them (Pachislo's and Pachinko's) used both a Mono and Stereo L-Pad having 2 normal speakers and one Bass speaker.

I've posted the links to parts express before and the Pic of the wiring schematic I have. If anyone wants them I cam post them again instead of hunting for them. I used 18 gauge twin lead wire shielded to connect the L-Pads.

I had one on the Harley down at the Vero Meet and everyone seemed to like it.

[johntofva]

JohnD... There is nothing wrong with a debate. They are informative and helpful. It is when they turn into a fight that a problem devoleps... So please debate away, and if you remember the rules of a debate, so much the better.

[new in town]

Some one PM'd me for the L-Pad Schematic. I'm not trying to Hi Jack your Thread but I though this would be the best place to put it for all to see.

I can't take credit for it as it is really from another member, (rjb0388) who I purchased my Dragon Dice From.

[Leatherwolf]

Alright, I found the manual through some links on here. Pretty much everything is answered there. The manual that came with the machine didnt do much, too much of a diagram from old machines. So, not helpful with modern ones. Once the links are back up for the research center, I'll be even better off. Until then, thanks for everybody help. It helped tons and I finally have an idea with what going on. Thanks again!!!