cell replacement

[pachiwall]

I want to duplicate this cell. I have read some threads about scanning at highest resolution (in segments) and using some type of "paint" software to get the colors right. I am afraid that I won't be able to get this off in any usable size pieces. Can a pic be taken at high resolution and touched up the same way. Would it be possible to do this without pulling the nails yet and just edit them out? If unsatisfactory, can always try again after pulling everything off the cell. The badly yellowed clear flakes off, leaving very clean cell and slightly faded colors. would probably work best if all nails and pockets are removed, clear coat peeled off and highest resolution pic taken. Has anyone done it this way before? All tips welcome as I would rather not replace with a different pattern.cell replacement 001.jpgcell replacement 002.jpg

[emmadog]

you only need to scan it in at 300 dpi. i would highly recommend trying to remove the cel in one piece.i'd lift up a corner and tease it away with an x-acto blade which will take awhile but if you're going thru all the trouble of a cel replacement, then it's worth it to do it right. once the image is in your computer then you need to use the image as a template to recolor all the areas. if you use a photo and don't edit/recolor any areas then the result will look like a photo. paint.net is the free drawing program that some of us use with very good results but it will take a little time to learn how to use it but it's not hard. there is a feature on there that let's you rotate an image so that you can have it facing your point of view perpendicularly if for example, you were off to one side when you snapped the photo. again, though it's not perfect and i highly suggest scanning the cel. each picture you snap will be slightly different in distance and angle which will be apparent when you're trying to match up everything digitally and is a headache you can avoid by scanning. also office depot and print shops have large format scanners so once you have the cel off it can then be scanned in one piece.

if you have to go the photo route you should place a ruler along the playfield and graphic elements when snapping pics. then once in paint.net or whatever you can use the rulers in the program to correspond with the ruler on the image to make sure everything is the correct size. i'd do a quarter of the playfield at a time and once done, stitch them together then start editing the colors. this "problem" of photo editing is something than pinball restorers deal with since you can't scan a pinball playfield. well you can, but the scanners are obviously expensive and everything has to be pulled off the machine.

[mxfaiman]

emmadog basically said it all.

I use a basic version of Photoshop (elements). But I know not many people have access to software like that. I also have paint.net. It is just as easy to use. I started out with that and it only took me a few days to learn how to do most of the things. Paint.net is probably the best Photoshop standing that is free.

[SteveFury]

What I do is remove all the items from the playfield.
Then I put it under a reasonable light for photography. I use the camera in my iPhone and pay particular attention to taking the photo as close to the center as possible. Not off to the side or too high or low. That way the the keystoning effect is kept to minimum.

I open it up in photoshop.

The photograph will still be skeystoned a bit so I'll drag 4 guidelines out of the rulers and place them on the top, bottom and sides of the photo as a guide. Then I'll select the whole photo and choose Edit/Transform/Skew. A box will appear on the 4 corners and I'll push them around until the photo is square with the guides.

Once the photo is squared I'll crop it.

I'll make a new document the size of 17x22 inches. I'll also open the photographed cell. I'll drag the cell into the 17x22 window and resize to make sure it's the right dimensions.

Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint it white, then hide the layer.
Then I'll use the eyedropper tool to get the basic color of a cell pattern I want to reproduce. The captured color is probably going to be faded and yellowed so I'll adjust the palette to make it a bit brighter and bump the saturation up a bit.

Then I'll select the patterns on the original for that color using the magic wand tool, polygon selector or marquee tools.
Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint the color in it.
I'll do the same for each colored pattern on the cell, each in its own layer.

I'll use the brush tool etc to touch up the layers.
Once it looks good I'll select the whole thing and do Filters/Blur/Guassian Blur and set it very low, maybe 2-3 pixels to make sure any edge isn't still jagged.

Once I really like it I'll flatten all the layers and save it on a thumb drive in several formats.

BMP is big but it can be opened by almost anything.
TGA is a good fairly popular format that is not lossy.
Photoshop PSD format is used by some printers.
Last choice is JPG because it is lossy.

Then I take the thumb drive to the printer.

[mxfaiman]

What I do is remove all the items from the playfield.
Then I put it under a reasonable light for photography. I use the camera in my iPhone and pay particular attention to taking the photo as close to the center as possible. Not off to the side or too high or low. That way the the keystoning effect is kept to minimum.

I open it up in photoshop.

I'll make a new document the size of 17x22 inches. I'll also open the photographed cell. I'll drag the cell into the 17x22 window and resize to make sure it's the right dimensions.

The photograph will still be skeystoned a bit so I'll drag 4 guidelines out of the rulers and place them on the top, bottom and sides of the photo as a guide. Then I'll select the whole photo and choose Edit/Transform/Skew. A box will appear on the 4 corners and I'll push them around until the photo is square with the guides.

Once the photo is squared I'll crop it.
Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint it white, then hide the layer.
Then I'll use the eyedropper tool to get the basic color of a cell pattern I want to reproduce. The captured color is probably going to be faded and yellowed so I'll adjust the palette to make it a bit brighter and bump the saturation up a bit.

Then I'll select the patterns on the original for that color using the magic wand tool, polygon selector or marquee tools.
Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint the color in it.
I'll do the same for each colored pattern on the cell, each in its own layer.

I'll use the brush tool etc to touch up the layers.
Once it looks good I'll select the whole thing and do Filters/Blur/Guassian Blur and set it very low, maybe 2-3 pixels to make sure any edge isn't still jagged.

Once I really like it I'll flatten all the layers and save it on a thumb drive in several formats.

BMP is big but it can be opened by almost anything.
TGA is a good fairly popular format that is not lossy.
Photoshop PSD format is used by some printers.
Last choice is JPG because it is lossy.

Then I take the thumb drive to the printer.

But this only works if you have a $500 program called Photoshop. Thanks for sharing though. (might want to take your cell to fedex kinkos, office depot, or other places with big scanners. and scan it in. It will go much faster)

[Steve Cebu]

I'll also open the photographed cell. I'll drag the cell into the 17x22 window and resize to make sure it's the right dimensions.

I'll use the brush tool etc to touch up the layers.
Once it looks good I'll select the whole thing and do Filters/Blur/Guassian Blur and set it very low, maybe 2-3 pixels to make sure any edge isn't still jagged.

Once I really like it I'll flatten all the layers and save it on a thumb drive in several formats.

BMP is big but it can be opened by almost anything.
TGA is a good fairly popular format that is not lossy.
Photoshop PSD format is used by some printers.
Last choice is JPG because it is lossy.

Then I take the thumb drive to the printer.

Ok so what if you wanted to mke a custom cell and have the pictures you wanted on it?
I would love to do this at some point but I really don't want to spend $$$ buying Photoshop and then
going to night school to learn how to use it.

I'd love to be able to take images that I get in various ways and then arrange them so the cell will look
exactly the way I want it to and then do an overlay of the pin layout so I don't get a bad look after it would
be put on the field.

[pachiwall]

What I do is remove all the items from the playfield.
Then I put it under a reasonable light for photography. I use the camera in my iPhone and pay particular attention to taking the photo as close to the center as possible. Not off to the side or too high or low. That way the the keystoning effect is kept to minimum.

I open it up in photoshop.

The photograph will still be skeystoned a bit so I'll drag 4 guidelines out of the rulers and place them on the top, bottom and sides of the photo as a guide. Then I'll select the whole photo and choose Edit/Transform/Skew. A box will appear on the 4 corners and I'll push them around until the photo is square with the guides.

Once the photo is squared I'll crop it.

I'll make a new document the size of 17x22 inches. I'll also open the photographed cell. I'll drag the cell into the 17x22 window and resize to make sure it's the right dimensions.

Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint it white, then hide the layer.
Then I'll use the eyedropper tool to get the basic color of a cell pattern I want to reproduce. The captured color is probably going to be faded and yellowed so I'll adjust the palette to make it a bit brighter and bump the saturation up a bit.

Then I'll select the patterns on the original for that color using the magic wand tool, polygon selector or marquee tools.
Then I'll make a new layer and bucket paint the color in it.
I'll do the same for each colored pattern on the cell, each in its own layer.

I'll use the brush tool etc to touch up the layers.
Once it looks good I'll select the whole thing and do Filters/Blur/Guassian Blur and set it very low, maybe 2-3 pixels to make sure any edge isn't still jagged.

Once I really like it I'll flatten all the layers and save it on a thumb drive in several formats.

BMP is big but it can be opened by almost anything.
TGA is a good fairly popular format that is not lossy.
Photoshop PSD format is used by some printers.
Last choice is JPG because it is lossy.

Then I take the thumb drive to the printer.

Not sure what all the terms are...but most of it made some sense. I downloaded PAINT.NET and have had a hard time understanding how to use it. I haven't figured out layers yet, but I understand how helpful they can be. I made a mess but ended up with this.cell replacement 001.jpg If you squint really hard...you might be able to see it here.cell replacement 002.jpg Fabricating parts for the back is easier than this! Clearly, it is too soon to give up yet but I will probably end up farming it out to someone who has done this before! Thanks for the tips...it is better than the tips from paint.net. I couldn't even find a "how to get started" section. All their tutorials were forums of people asking advanced questions. One claimed a video that I couldn't find...and forum comments of others saying how helpful it was. This is such a simple pattern, hopefully it won't cost too much to duplicate. This one I want the same. Rival has an exact copy for my front overflow, and I have another machine or two that any good cell will do.

[SteveFury]

I don't personally use it, but I'd recommend GIMP as a graphics creator and editor as a Photoshop alternative. It's open source and 100% free and rivals the power of Photoshop. A lot of people use it and I hear it isn't too hard to learn. You don't need to fill out their information form, you'll get the download link without doing so. I sometimes use OpenSuse as an alternative to Windows. OpenSuse is a flavor of Linux and Gimp even comes shipped with Gimp.

You can google "Gimp tutorials" and get zillions of hits, from the basics to advance. Here is the Windows version download link:

http://sourceforge.net/projects/gimp-win

[mxfaiman]

Not sure what all the terms are...but most of it made some sense. I downloaded PAINT.NET and have had a hard time understanding how to use it. I haven't figured out layers yet, but I understand how helpful they can be. I made a mess but ended up with this. If you squint really hard...you might be able to see it here. Fabricating parts for the back is easier than this!

That is a good start. maybe you can learn how to use the straight line tools and also the circle tools.

[pachiwall]

That is a good start. maybe you can learn how to use the straight line tools and also the circle tools.

Excellent! I didn't know they existed, clearly I need them! look at the circles...the shading of the color gives a depth to look like spheres...any ideas? It took me at least 1/2 hour to figure out how to put a picture on the palette just to get started. Now to figure out layers and transparancy to put the original on top to make sure I'm not changing shapes or sizes too much.

[mxfaiman]

Okay for all you member who are new to paint.net and want a basic tutorial he is one I made.


Basically I will talk about circles and layers. If you want to know more about something let me know.




Lets start with circles.


Okay, look at the image below. It has a red arrow pointing to the symbol for the ellipse tool. If you click on it the toolbar menu will change.



1.jpg


Alright now it is time to select what type of circle you want. Click on the symbol that has the outlining of a circle and a square above the drawing. You will then see a scroll down menu. You will be able to choose from these choices.


• Draw Shape Outline – What this does it draws an outline of the shape in the selected color. (To change thickness on the out line use the + or – for the brush width)


• Draw Filled Shape – What this does it is draws the shape as a solid figure in your selected color. (Brush width won’t change anything in this mode)


• Draw Filled Shape With Outline – What this does it draws an outline of the figure and then gives it a white filled center. (Filled center is not noticeable on white) (Brush width will also change thickness on the line)


2.jpg


The image below shows what each mode does. (I put it on a black background so you can see the last mode) Note* when it draws the figures the little icons don’t appear next to them. I did that so you can see what is what.


4.jpg


All this information is the same for the rest of the shapes.




Okay now for Layers.


I will let you know now that this one will be separated into 2 posts due to the amount of screen shots.


Okay so you imported your picture. (I erased the white background so you can see the steps better) And now you want to add another layer.


• So go to the ‘Layer’ menu.
• You will then see a button that says ‘Add New Layer’


1.jpg


If you click on it your new layer will appear but you won’t know it is there. So how do you see it is there?
• Well you go to the ‘Window’ menu
• Scroll down to ‘Layers’

2.jpg


You will then see a new box appear in the lower left corner of your window.
Your new layer will be on top and it will say ‘Layer 2’ your original lay is labeled as ‘Background’


3.jpg


You can now draw whatever you want in this new layer.


4.jpg


But let’s say you want to add another layer with a colored background.
So you go to the layer menu and add another layer. (or use the keyboard short cut Ctrl + Shift + N)


So your new layer appears on top. So you want your background to be purple so you go and use the paint bucket and paint it purple. But wait where did all your circles go? (Next post explains)


5.jpg

[mxfaiman]

Let me explain, you added another layer to the top. And you covered it with something that wasn’t transparent so you are in turn covering up everything below it. So what can you do to fix it?


In the layer box (lower right) you will see a blue down arrow. Make sure you are selected on that purple layer before you continue any further. (click the layer)


6.jpg


Now press that blue arrow. You will then see whatever was in your second layer appear back on top.


7.jpg


If you press it again you will see your background image appear again. (You’ll loose the purple if you kept the white background on you background layer.)


8.jpg


Now let’s say you want to merge your second layer with your background image. Select what is on top. (Should be your second layer) and then click the button that looks like to pieces of paper with a blue down arrow.


9.jpg


Now you will see that your second layer merged with you background image. (Note* you can only merge down; you can’t select a lower layer and have it merge with an upper one)


10.jpg


Okay now let’s say you want to turn off the purple layer temporarily. Click the little checkmark on the right for that layer.


11.jpg


Now it has disappeared. If you want it back just click the box again. (This works for all layers)


That is basically it. If you want to delete a layer just select the layer and then click the red X at the bottom of the box.




If anyone wants to know how to do something just let mew know and I’ll give it my best.


(Sorry Pachiwall I can’t figure out how to blur it correctly to make it look 3-D. Plus I think they were solid to begin with and they have just fadded.)

[pachiwall]

Thanks Max! I just got home from work, so I haven't tried yet...but it sounds easy enough. If I find just the right color, how do I get the exact color later. I'm not looking at it now, but I believe there is a number system. How does that work? You also mentioned a straight line tool...

[mxfaiman]

Thanks Max! I just got home from work, so I haven't tried yet...but it sounds easy enough. If I find just the right color, how do I get the exact color later. I'm not looking at it now, but I believe there is a number system. How does that work? You also mentioned a straight line tool...

Okay answers to your questions.


You also mentioned a straight line tool...


Yes there is a tool on the side too bar that says 'Line/Curve' The red arrow in the image below points to the button for it. The blue arrow points to the box for the brush width. The brush width lets you choose the thickness of you line. (Small # = thin line; Big # = thick line)

1.jpg

Now you can draw you line. (make sure you have your color of choice already chosen.) To draw a line first click your start point and then hold the button down on your mouse. Drag the line to your end point; and then release.

If you need a curve line instead of a straight line that is easy to do. Draw a straight line between your endpoints. The you will notice that there are boxes on the line. (red arrow points to them below) If you click and hold on those boxes you can drag them around to your desired curve. and the release once you have got it. (Note* you may need to use multiple lines for long complex curves)

2.jpg

If I find just the right color, how do I get the exact color later. I'm not looking at it now, but I believe there is a number system. How does that work?

This one has a few screen shots so it will be in 2 posts.

Okay If you don't have it already pull up the color wheel. If you need help how to do this keep reading if not skip down to the next bold print.

To pull up the color wheel got to the 'Window' menu and scroll down the the button that says 'Colors'

1.jpg

Okay now click on it. You will then have the color wheel appear in the upper right corner.

2.jpg

Okay now to learn more about the color wheel.

At the top of the box you will notice a button that says 'More >>'

3.jpg

Go ahead and click on it. You will then notice that the box will expand.

4.jpg

Now I'll talk more about everything you just opened on it.

Okay everything I'm going to say is going to be referring to the image below.

Red Arrow- This lets you adjust the amount of red huge in the color. move it to the right for more red or to the left for less. (You could also use the #'s; higher # = more red; Lower # = less red)

Blue Arrow- Same as the red arrow but this does the Blue huge.

Dark Green Arrow- Same as the red arrow but this does the Green huge.

Pink Arrow- This is what moves what part of the color spectrum you are in.

Purple Arrow- This lets you control the amount of White in the color.

Lime Green Arrow- This lets you control the amount of Black in the color.

Gray Arrow- This lets you choose how transparent the color is. (You won't need that much.)

If you don't like playing with all the scales the easier alternative is to grab the little box on the color wheel to the left and drag it to where you want it.

5.png

Continue to the next post for more information...

[mxfaiman]

Okay color wheel continued...

Okay so now you draw an object in one color and then switch to a different color. But then you forgot to fix something on the other object. So you ask... How do I get that exact color again?

Easy answer.

Lets start out with a object. Let our object be an odd colored orange circle.

6.jpg

Now you need to match the color after you have already changed to a different color. So how do you match the color? Easy, Click on the 'Color Picker' tool on the side toolbar. (red arrow points to it.)

7.jpg

Now go to the object in wish the color you want to match. Click on a patch of the color and then Bam; you color wheel changes to that exact color.

8.jpg

Any question let me know.

[pachiwall]

Okay color wheel continued...

Okay so now you draw an object in one color and then switch to a different color. But then you forgot to fix something on the other object. So you ask... How do I get that exact color again?

Easy answer.

Lets start out with a object. Let our object be an odd colored orange circle.



Now you need to match the color after you have already changed to a different color. So how do you match the color? Easy, Click on the 'Color Picker' tool on the side toolbar. (red arrow points to it.)



Now go to the object in wish the color you want to match. Click on a patch of the color and then Bam; you color wheel changes to that exact color.



Any question let me know.

Thanks again Max! You have saved me hours of trial and error! I haven't messed with the color wheel at all because I have been carefully peeling the clear coat (brownish yellow film, could be petrified cigarette smoke!) off so I can take a better pic. I found a light grey upsidedown NIKE SWOOSH. Just above the green checkmark. I also think that the pink plastic pocket on the right that says DELUXE, belongs above the pink plastic part above the center attraction that says KING. The metal pocket at the top is still chrome, and is missing an insert at the bottom...this now makes the ball PASS THRU. All other metal pockets are painted silver, and if you look up at the bottom...the insert that blocks PASS THRU and directs the ball rearward, is quite rusty. I believe 4 of the metal pockets were rusty, and 1 survived. The 1 that wasn't rusty was probably traded places with the plastic Deluxe. Why was the insert removed? But the pink DELUXE sends the ball thru the back, and something is nailed to the back to cover the hole. This one is gonna be a challenge, as I don't know how sound the plywood behind the cell is. I probably don't...but I haven't ruled out the possibility of having to replace the plywood as well.

[owennewton]

I am impressed, I would be parting that one out if it was mine

[pachiwall]

I am impressed, I would be parting that one out if it was mine

All parts seem to be on the back, and it does payout when you encourage the balls past a piece of bent metal. If it were a Ginza...some parts would already been swapped. However I have never heard of a TAISEI, so I want to keep it intact. I do love off brand single ball machines. I have more pics at "One trip 2 new machines! Too bad the seller on eBay wanted $500 for that really cool one!(not a single ball...but I'll cut it some slack!)

[Rival]

I pull all the nails, scan and stitch, and then send the jpg off to a professional. It takes me about 10 minutes to scan and stitch, and about 3 days for my pro to deliver me an oustanding jpg ready for printing. My pro charges me $36.00 but heck, if it saves me two hours work I figure it's well worth it. I could spend 20 hours on some of these and not get it right. Thats why pros get paid I guess.

[pachiwall]

Wasn't sure if you did it all yourself. I'm afraid if I try to scrape it off it will disintrigate. I'm going to try to do it from pics 1st.then when I have something acceptable...scrape it off and try to scan it.