Pachinko cabinet material

[Silverstreak02]

I need to make a couple of cabinets for my pachinko machines. What type of material is preferred and why? Also if you have pictures of your design feel free to attach a couple of pictures and note the material you used.

[MrGneiss]

I know nothing about wood, but when I was making cabinets, I used what ever was the cheapest 1 by lumber Home Depot had!! 1x10s etc..

[stampeed valkyrie]

I made my first few with Poplar, but then the price on it went bananas, switched over to plywood due to cost. With plywood it takes more time to paint, but overall its way stronger then any hardwood.

As for plans.. this is what I have used. https://www.pachitalk.com/forums/sho...t-design/page5

It has its pros and cons, but I started with this design and all of my machines save 1 or 2 are keeping it.

Rob

[Silverstreak02]

What are you thoughts on MDF board? Is it stronger or weaker than whiteboard or pine?

[Silverstreak02]

I made my first few with Poplar, but then the price on it went bananas, switched over to plywood due to cost. With plywood it takes more time to paint, but overall its way stronger then any hardwood.

As for plans.. this is what I have used. https://www.pachitalk.com/forums/sho...t-design/page5

It has its pros and cons, but I started with this design and all of my machines save 1 or 2 are keeping it.

Rob

What are the pros and cons of that design?

[stampeed valkyrie]

What are you thoughts on MDF board? Is it stronger or weaker than whiteboard or pine?

I am not super familiar with MDF, from what I am reading MDF does not handle weight that well, and is known for splitting and cracking when you put screws into it due to its brittle nature.
Whiteboard and Pine are both softwoods, and would work I would look at cost overall.

The wood I am using is Birch Veneer Plywood, its biggest con is the layers show on the ends even when you paint it.

What are the pros and cons of that design?

The biggest con that I had was the placement of the funnel to feed the payout hopper at the top. Not all machines are the same and you may need to relocate its location and depth depending on the machine you put in.
The other issue is the tip factor, if you keep the machine closed up its fine, you can keep it on a stand or table. However if you open the machine up and swing all the weight on its hinges it can easily tip over so you need to be aware of that.
If you plan on hanging it, that is not a factor but it removes the easy access to the rear which I like about this design.
I also had to install a funnel on my machines otherwise I would have lost balls falling all over the place in the back, the funnel keeps them where they belong as they fall out and is not noticeable from the front.

[UncleToyBox]

I wouldn't recommend MDF for a cabinet. You might be able to get away with it for sides and the base of the cabinet but you'll want to use boards of some sort to hold the pachinko frame in place. Even something as cheap as pine should do the trick for screwing into the pachinko frame.

I do like MDF for the shell of a cabinet. It's heavy and doesn't warp easily. If you're looking to dress it up, I would recommend a vinyl sheet of artwork rather than paint as they like to soak up paint. You can get a good finish on them with paint, just takes a lot.

While I'm new to pachinko, I have a lot of experience with custom arcade cabinets and virtual pinball. Building a cabinet to hold pachinko is easy in comparison.

[Silverstreak02]

I am not super familiar with MDF, from what I am reading MDF does not handle weight that well, and is known for splitting and cracking when you put screws into it due to its brittle nature.
Whiteboard and Pine are both softwoods, and would work I would look at cost overall.

The wood I am using is Birch Veneer Plywood, its biggest con is the layers show on the ends even when you paint it.



The biggest con that I had was the placement of the funnel to feed the payout hopper at the top. Not all machines are the same and you may need to relocate its location and depth depending on the machine you put in.
The other issue is the tip factor, if you keep the machine closed up its fine, you can keep it on a stand or table. However if you open the machine up and swing all the weight on its hinges it can easily tip over so you need to be aware of that.
If you plan on hanging it, that is not a factor but it removes the easy access to the rear which I like about this design.
I also had to install a funnel on my machines otherwise I would have lost balls falling all over the place in the back, the funnel keeps them where they belong as they fall out and is not noticeable from the front.

What is the thickness of the plywood you use?

[Moparformances]

i use 1x8 pine boards... 1x8 is wide enough to cover the depth of a machine to protect the back plastics.. i get them from the lumber yard i work at but and any home depot Lowes etc will stock them. your going to need 10 ft total at the least.. I buy 12' long boards so i can make the bottom wider for stability and to protect the front plastics if it falls face forward..

DSCF3680.jpgDSCF3679.jpgcabinet in white (3).JPGcabinet in white.JPG

with a bit more lumber, work and effort you can add a balls tub on top

vince Pachinko in painted cabinet (1).jpgvince Pachinko in painted cabinet.jpg

[MrGneiss]

I know Sid made cabinets out of MDF long ago and I remember him saying they were crazy heavy and hard to move!!

[Silverstreak02]

I am not super familiar with MDF, from what I am reading MDF does not handle weight that well, and is known for splitting and cracking when you put screws into it due to its brittle nature.
Whiteboard and Pine are both softwoods, and would work I would look at cost overall.

The wood I am using is Birch Veneer Plywood, its biggest con is the layers show on the ends even when you paint it.



The biggest con that I had was the placement of the funnel to feed the payout hopper at the top. Not all machines are the same and you may need to relocate its location and depth depending on the machine you put in.
The other issue is the tip factor, if you keep the machine closed up its fine, you can keep it on a stand or table. However if you open the machine up and swing all the weight on its hinges it can easily tip over so you need to be aware of that.
If you plan on hanging it, that is not a factor but it removes the easy access to the rear which I like about this design.
I also had to install a funnel on my machines otherwise I would have lost balls falling all over the place in the back, the funnel keeps them where they belong as they fall out and is not noticeable from the front.

Will you share a couple pictures?

[takethecastle57]

About 15 years ago I made my Power Ventilated pachinko machine cabinet with a Two cell drawer with Two large access door on either side and a Hopper on top made with the biggest plastic funnel that would fit on top and hide it behind a wooden box (Four sides )

And I made it out of MFD and that sucker is Super heavy but when I tried to put leveling feet on the bottom cabinet the MFD just couldn't take the weight and broke and desolved into sawdust .

If I was to make a new cabinet with cell storage I would use a good 1/2" plywood with reinforced angle bands on the other side of the leveling feet bracket.

[stampeed valkyrie]

Will you share a couple pictures?

Pictures can be found in the thread link I listed above, I have several with my machines in it.
I think the original plans were calling for 3/4 inch pine, I have been using 1 inch without an issue.