Computer pachinko optical "lucky" switch

[Tink]

Hello, Been lurking here for a while now and have finally registered. Bitten by the pachinko bug about a year back and have recently acquired 2 identical American football computer pachinko's. Both seem complete and operational with the exception of the optical "lucky" switch which is missing from both machines. Would anyone happen to have a part number for these? I understand that finding the exact is probably not going to happen, but a part number off one ( if there is any markings on them) would help me to replicate or find an acceptable alternative. Thanks in advance for anyone that can help.

If this should be posted in the technical support forum, please move.

[Tink]

Update, upon further play today, 1 machine appears functional if I can find a suitable opti sensor, it loads 3 payouts for play and will payout with the black and blue wires shorted momentarily. The second machine may need more than the opti sensor, on power up, the unit triggers payout continuosly, however shorting the opti sensor wires it will stop, but does not actuate another payout.

[Card Shark]

I will look at my opti sensor tomorrow and post pictures along with any info I can find.

[Tink]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

[Card Shark]

I fear I may also have an opti sensor problem. I remove mine and inspected it. Not much information there.

opti 1.JPGopti 2.jpg

[Tink]

Well at least now I know it is 5 volt, Would you mind taking some measurements? gap, depth and width. I will go hunting for a suitable alternative. Had previously found some on ebay but was leary without knowing actual size.

[Card Shark]

I will do my best.

[Card Shark]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Photologic-S...-/280778756949

Wondering if this would work.

[Tink]

Thats the one I have been looking at as well, just curios about sizing, 3 wire transistor, should work if it'll fit depth and width of the prize tilt

[browne92]

First, my disclaimer: I know nothing of these machines or these sensors, but I know something of electronics. Just trying to help.

If Satomi is the manufacturer of pachinko machines, which I believe it is, then they made it themselves in house. If the name had been put on it with a sticker, I'd say peel the sticker back and see who's name was under it, but with the name molded into the plastic, there's not much doubt.

With them missing from both of Tink's machines and Card Shark thinks his has failed, then this tells me that this is a common failure. Solid state electronics are generally pretty durable unless the design is just plain bad. If the sensor contained a small light bulb as an emitter instead of UV devices, that would explain the high failure rate.

If you are sure the one you have has failed, I say drill out the rivets and see what's in it. If it hasn't, it could be hooked up on a test bench and checked for operation. It would be a lot easier to find a suitable replacement if you knew how it worked.

There are two possible methods of operation. One is the output is held hi by the computer and the sensor pulls it low, and the other is the output is low until the sensor outputs a high pulse. All depends on how it is wired.

If I can help figure it out, let me know.

[Tink]

Thanks for chiming in browne92, I agree with your thoughts, however without knowing exactly what's in those units as you say, it's a guess as to what is driving them. By shorting the blue and black wires on mine, I am able to force the counter as if a prize has occured, this leads me to believe that it is outputing a high signal. The schematic shows a power connection , a ground, and an output. This also makes me think that a simple transistor output should work. Power in flows to the output when the light path is blocked. Maybe I should pull out the multimeter and make some measurements, but what's the fun in that

I have since ordered a few test pieces from the ebay link above, soon we will know if this works or not. I hope the sizing is sufficient.

Further thoughts are definitely welcome and appreciated. Am I looking at this to simply?

[Card Shark]

Once I get some spare time again, I intend to dig deeper with some testing on mine. Just have very little time these days. Just got home from another 14 hour shift.

[Tink]

Wow, those are long days.
Traced some wires back to the board connections, according to the schematic it appears this may in fact be a negative trigger. Assuming the optical switch is working as a coupler, the voltage would pass through the light path and once broken create the negative trigger. This would explain why shorting the black ground and blue output wires can simulate a prize payout.

[browne92]

Personally, I wouldn't be shorting wires together without having some idea of what they do first. Too easy to let the magic smoke out. A few minutes with a meter could save you a lot of grief.

Also, unless you've traced the black wire back to ground, I would not assume any specific wire color code was used. If you've ever worked on a car, you know that the only place red is positive and black is negative is at the battery. Anywhere else in the car is a complete crap shoot. In this type of machine, I would expect much the same.

[Tink]

Agreed, shorting wires is never a good idea and I donot recommend this course of action to other. And yes, traced back to ground in this particular machine anyway.

[Tink]

Ok, switches arrived today, installed and working now as it should. Used a 2mm piece of plexi to give the offset off the back panel for mounting.

[Card Shark]

Excellent!!!
Please attach the details of which device you used.

[Tink]

The ones from ebay, got the 3 pack, now to see if I can revive the second unit.

[Tink]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Photologic-S...-/280778756949

Wondering if this would work.

These