1974 Power Flash Thunder Bird Super Deluxe - Missing Transformer

[Hisnameismyname2]

Hello everyone,

I'm wondering if anyone can help answer a few questions about my first pachinko machine. From what I've gathered I believe that this is a 1974? 76? Power Flash Super Deluxe Thunder Bird. Unlike most machines I believe this one requires power, but sadly this one appears to have had issues in the past (melted plastic near the fuse). This machine is also missing the transformer.

I think the solenoids are fine, but I really don't know for sure.. I'm getting a reading of about 70 OHMs from each.

Question 1: Can anyone recommend how I would go about supplying power to this machine?
Question 2: In my last picture you'll notice that there isn't a flipper (not sure what to call it; looks like a paper clip) for one of the pockets. This is for the Ace pocket. Interestingly enough I found a video on youtube of the same machine and their machine was also missing the flipper on this pocket. So my question, is this by design, or should I be creating a flipper with a paper clip?

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you very much for your time!
Jon
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[Tink]

Hello and welcome. Very cool first machine.

On the back side of the little circuit board should be a bridge rectifier (4 diodes). Check those for damage or burns. If good, the supply is 24 Vac. for powering the solenoids. A center tap transformer works well so you can use the center tap 12 volts for the lights. You may need to change the bulbs.

The ace tulip is manual by design, only a ball in the top center will open it from the back while the solenoids open the rest via the switch on that ball path.

[Moparformances]

something like this is what i have used many times in the past for vintage machine that require power.. like Tink said the bridge rectifer has to be in good shape..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radio-Sh...8AAOSwSlBY4AL9

if the parts are shot melted or can not be used you can provide 24 vots dc directly to the machine no bridge needed.. i understand that an older computer power supply should be correct.. (make sure your dbl check the output and do some testing before hand) I have never had to search for a DC poer supply all the ones i have found were in as original shape and spec...

and of course





Welcome to Pachitalk

[pachiwall]

As mentioned above...24 volts AC to power the solenoids. I bought the transformer Mopar suggested, and it works great for my Thunderbird. The transformer has 3 wires (looks like 2 yellow, and 1 white from the pic). The 2 yellow wires make 24 volts and go to the pair of grey wires that come out of the bottom of the fuse box. Yours have been cut short, as they are usually about a foot long. The white wire, and either one of the yellow wires make 12 volts...they hook up to the 2 terminals where the melted spot is...labeled 10v, with the white thumbscrew. They use 10 volts, but 12 volts will be just fine. You can take the yellow thumbscrew and use it for the missing orange one. You won't need to hook up anything to the spot where the yellow one now is...it it to alert the parlor workers that the hopper is low and needs to be refilled.
When I bought my transformer (on eBay), I used the part number, and searched eBay for more choices of the same part...then bought the least expensive one. The one linked above costs less than any of the ones avaliable at the time I bought one. Still not a bad idea though.
And finally...WELCOME TO PACHITALK!

[pachiwall]

Did a quick eBay search. Calculated shipping to Ohio, and shipping was $9.75...makes the total (to my location) $19.74! http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Radiosha...kAAOSw4CFYpifn This one is $15.99 with free shipping. Your shipping could be cheaper...buy it's always a good idea to check!

[Peteybob]

Hello Jon and welcome to the group!

[CarlW]

Maybe you know this already... 24V goes to the white lamp cord that comes out of the back of your power block.
Your lamp cord is cut off about an inch from the power block.

My method is to test the solenoids with a 24V DC power supply and see if the solenoids work that way.

A 2A, 24V, DC power supply will run everything fine, you would then use 28V bulbs...
Just another option...
http://www.mpja.com/24-Volt-Adapter-Power-Supply-22A/productinfo/30252+PS/

https://www.bulbtown.com/1821_Miniat...ase_p/1821.htm

[Hisnameismyname2]

You guys are awesome!! I promise to come back with more pictures after I hook up the transformer (successfully or not ). I went with Pachiwall's recommendation to see a few bucks. I'm now noticing that moparformances' recommendation indicates 24VAC, but the one I bought is 25VAC. I hope that isn't going to cause me any issues

thank you to everyone who took the time to share knowledge!

[Moparformances]

You guys are awesome!! I promise to come back with more pictures after I hook up the transformer (successfully or not ). I went with Pachiwall's recommendation to see a few bucks. I'm now noticing that moparformances' recommendation indicates 24VAC, but the one I bought is 25VAC. I hope that isn't going to cause me any issues

thank you to everyone who took the time to share knowledge!

you should be good with any of the ones posted... so long as the rectifier is good

[pachiwall]

Test your bulbs with a 9 volt battery. And remember...yellow and yellow is 24-25 volts for the cut off wire that looks like a lampcord. If you hook up both yellows to the 10v thumbscrews, you will blow all your bulbs. It won't damage the machine, but will be frustrating. Either yellow, and the single "other" wire, make the low voltage for the lights.
Awesome first machine! I had 26 machines...and searched for years, with a lot of them getting away before I got my PowerFlash. I drove about 150 miles each way to get it!

[Hisnameismyname2]

Thanks for the electrical tips and for sharing that story! I am super excited about this project.. I'm expecting the transformer to arrive on Friday. I can't wait.

[Hisnameismyname2]

Ladies and gentlemen alike, i'm pleased to let you know that the solenoids & lights are alive and well! I've learned so much about this machine thanks to the experts here at Pachitalk. Right now, i'm dealing with a sticky payout lever (yes, there are plenty of balls in the payout tray). I'm going to have to do a deep clean soon (say goodbye to the staples). I won't use any lubricant; don't worry.

I'm picking up a new piece of glass and plexiglass from a local glass company tomorrow. I'll be back to close out this ticket and post more pictures when I have this baby fully functional.

Thanks again all.

[Hisnameismyname2]

Well, truth be told, I never fulfilled my plan of a full disassembly, but I was able to fix the ball jam.. hopefully this helps someone else in the future.

The first picture shows that the ball was getting stuck due to a sticky payout lever. To fix this, I cleaned up the track a bit with some TLC aka 90%+ rubbing alcohol and some q-tips. After cleaning the track I still noticed that there was still quite a bit of friction between the track and lever.. I ended up applying some gentle, but firm pressure to the lever so that it would bend away from the track and in turn eliminate the friction. The second picture depicts where I applied the pressure.

I swear one day I'll do a deep clean.

Also, in case anyone wonders.. I ended up paying just about $20 for a 16x16 piece of 1/8 in thick glass & another 16x16 1/8 in thick piece of plexiglass. I felt that price was fair. I wasn't able to locate anything this size at any of the major retailers. For the bulbs I picked up a pack of 10 e10 bases 12v 2.4 watts from amazon for less than $6

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