I need some help badly guys, don't want to trash it...

[addicted2dunes]

Thank you addicted2dunes. Maybe we found our culprit. Checking the bridge rectifier, you should have gotten 4 good diode values, but you only got 2, so this means two diodes are bad. I am sorry but I have to ask you to desolder the bridge rectifier from the circuit board and check it again. Here is a picture of what is inside a bridge rectifier.
Attachment 69732
by this design, if any two adjacent diodes were bad, then no power would get out. If any two opposite diodes were bad, then power could get out, but in that case, the power is pulsed.

Maybe we found the troublemaker. Damn I hope that is it.
Radio Shack sells a lot of different bridge rectifiers online, but in the store, this one:
25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com
or this one:
RadioShack 8A/400V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com
or this one if you bend the legs to accommodate the circuit board:
4A, 400V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com
should work for you.
The problem is the physical size of the bridge rectifier. But I am jumping ahead, we still need to get the old bridge rectifier desoldered off and verified it is bad. If it is bad, there might be some printing on it that will tell us what voltage and current values it is designed for.
Fingers and toes crossed here...

Hmmm... desoldered and removed I think it may be good?

.0
.0
.539
.572
.555
.590
0
0

Oh, and the only marking on it is: + w/ a circle around it, 2B 2.C
And it's made by Toshiba

[heima]

Thank you addicted2dunes. Yes, those values seem ok. I was hoping so bad it was the rectifier. I guess you can solder it back in. Do make sure that you solder it back exactly as you removed it. There should be a marking on the circuit board for the +. If not, you can use the picture you took of the circuit board.

Well, I am at a loss. I am not asking you to check the capacitors because I think they are well rated for the voltages they endured. At least with the new transformer, you will have the correct voltages supplied.

Here is another check. Disconnect connectors CON1 and CON2, and attach connectors CON4 and CON3. These are just the speaker and power wires. With them connected, does the music play continuously? If no, then the problem with the music playing continuously is not with this circuit board. It is located elsewhere, like the jackpot switch. If the music continues to play, then the problem is still with the circuit board, and would require an oscilloscope to help troubleshoot. For what it is worth, it seems that IC9 controls IC10, the music chip. Of course, the music continuously playing was just one of your problems.

As for your other problems, I am now just grabbing at straws. Maybe TR10 is being used as a voltage regulator, and that voltage is bad. We could check that with the DMM, but if the voltage had heavy noise or spikes or drop outs, we could not see that with the DMM. Again an oscilloscope would be needed. But what the hell, lets do it anyway. I was hoping that we could have found the problem without having to power on the circuit board, so as there was less risk, but seeing that it hasn't given us an answer, we can try this.

Take a look at the circuit board picture. Disconnect connector CON4 and only have CON3 connected. Supply power. Set the DMM to DC volts and put the black probe (-) to the area with the 1. Then touch the red probe (+) to the other numbered locations (2, 3, 4, ...) and write down the voltages. Then set the DMM to AC volts and perform the tests again, writing down the voltages. Maybe TR10 will give its self away with these tests.

Hang in there.

[heima]

For some reason, I cannot upload the picture. WTF?
When I get home, I will try from there.
Sorry.

[heima]

pcboard.jpg
ok, here it is. Stupid work computers. I can post pictures from the internet, but not ones created by my computer. Sheesh!

[addicted2dunes]

Thank you addicted2dunes. Yes, those values seem ok. I was hoping so bad it was the rectifier. I guess you can solder it back in. Do make sure that you solder it back exactly as you removed it. There should be a marking on the circuit board for the +. If not, you can use the picture you took of the circuit board.

Well, I am at a loss. I am not asking you to check the capacitors because I think they are well rated for the voltages they endured. At least with the new transformer, you will have the correct voltages supplied.

Here is another check. Disconnect connectors CON1 and CON2, and attach connectors CON4 and CON3. These are just the speaker and power wires. With them connected, does the music play continuously? If no, then the problem with the music playing continuously is not with this circuit board. It is located elsewhere, like the jackpot switch. If the music continues to play, then the problem is still with the circuit board, and would require an oscilloscope to help troubleshoot. For what it is worth, it seems that IC9 controls IC10, the music chip. Of course, the music continuously playing was just one of your problems.

As for your other problems, I am now just grabbing at straws. Maybe TR10 is being used as a voltage regulator, and that voltage is bad. We could check that with the DMM, but if the voltage had heavy noise or spikes or drop outs, we could not see that with the DMM. Again an oscilloscope would be needed. But what the hell, lets do it anyway. I was hoping that we could have found the problem without having to power on the circuit board, so as there was less risk, but seeing that it hasn't given us an answer, we can try this.

Take a look at the circuit board picture. Disconnect connector CON4 and only have CON3 connected. Supply power. Set the DMM to DC volts and put the black probe (-) to the area with the 1. Then touch the red probe (+) to the other numbered locations (2, 3, 4, ...) and write down the voltages. Then set the DMM to AC volts and perform the tests again, writing down the voltages. Maybe TR10 will give its self away with these tests.

Hang in there.

Should I do this test now? Or wait for the new transformer to get here?

[addicted2dunes]

Thank you addicted2dunes. Yes, those values seem ok. I was hoping so bad it was the rectifier. I guess you can solder it back in. Do make sure that you solder it back exactly as you removed it. There should be a marking on the circuit board for the +. If not, you can use the picture you took of the circuit board.

Well, I am at a loss. I am not asking you to check the capacitors because I think they are well rated for the voltages they endured. At least with the new transformer, you will have the correct voltages supplied.

Here is another check. Disconnect connectors CON1 and CON2, and attach connectors CON4 and CON3. These are just the speaker and power wires. With them connected, does the music play continuously? If no, then the problem with the music playing continuously is not with this circuit board. It is located elsewhere, like the jackpot switch. If the music continues to play, then the problem is still with the circuit board, and would require an oscilloscope to help troubleshoot. For what it is worth, it seems that IC9 controls IC10, the music chip. Of course, the music continuously playing was just one of your problems. Yes, it does play continuously

As for your other problems, I am now just grabbing at straws. Maybe TR10 is being used as a voltage regulator, and that voltage is bad. We could check that with the DMM, but if the voltage had heavy noise or spikes or drop outs, we could not see that with the DMM. Again an oscilloscope would be needed. But what the hell, lets do it anyway. I was hoping that we could have found the problem without having to power on the circuit board, so as there was less risk, but seeing that it hasn't given us an answer, we can try this.

Take a look at the circuit board picture. Disconnect connector CON4 and only have CON3 connected. Supply power. Set the DMM to DC volts and put the black probe (-) to the area with the 1. Then touch the red probe (+) to the other numbered locations (2, 3, 4, ...) and write down the voltages. Then set the DMM to AC volts and perform the tests again, writing down the voltages. Maybe TR10 will give its self away with these tests. OK, these tests are with the original transformer:

DMM to DC

2 - 39.10
3 - 38.45
4 - 12.15
5 - 18.36
6 - 11.55

DMM to AC

2 - Pulsing from 0-142
3 - Pulsing from 0-142
4 - .005
5 - .174
6 - .004

Hang in there.

Since there is a pulsing voltage do you think it still is the rectifier?

[addicted2dunes]

Alrighty... went to Radioshack and they actually had the transformer there! Although online it says they didn't. Anyways, I installed the new transformer and EVERYTHING is working as it should... BUT, the music never turns off. I also picked up a new rectifier just in case I need it.

[heima]

I am very happy to hear this!

Though I am scratching my head about the voltage values you got at 2, the values you got at 6 were either way off, or correct. I would need to know what the chips are rated for. The pulsing at 2 and 3 might have been the behavior of your DMM as it shifts ranges. The value of 142 might have been just a phantom value, meaning the pulsing was preventing the DMM from displaying the correct value, and so 142 was displayed instead. The pulsing I spoke of before would happen 30 times a second. I don't believe your DMM could display a value that fast.

I guess it would require more investigation to figure out the music continuously playing, but like I said, that would probably require an oscilloscope. I guess for now, you could just unplug the speaker and live with it for a while.

I am glad you have it working.

[addicted2dunes]

I am very happy to hear this!

Though I am scratching my head about the voltage values you got at 2, the values you got at 6 were either way off, or correct. I would need to know what the chips are rated for. The pulsing at 2 and 3 might have been the behavior of your DMM as it shifts ranges. The value of 142 might have been just a phantom value, meaning the pulsing was preventing the DMM from displaying the correct value, and so 142 was displayed instead. The pulsing I spoke of before would happen 30 times a second. I don't believe your DMM could display a value that fast.

I guess it would require more investigation to figure out the music continuously playing, but like I said, that would probably require an oscilloscope. I guess for now, you could just unplug the speaker and live with it for a while.

I am glad you have it working.

But I'd still like to get it working correctly

[heima]

I know how you feel.

If the analog portion of the circuit board is now functional, then the digital portion has the problem. Troubleshooting this requires a logic probe or an oscilloscope, and a lot of looking over spec sheets and tracing circuit paths. IC 9 appears to perform the logic to trigger IC10 to play the music, and IC11 is the amplifier of the sound for that music. If you traced the problem to IC 9,you would still have to desolder and remove it. Not easy. A replacement for IC 9 is available, though probably not from radio shack. If in fact IC10 was at fault, finding a replacement would be fairly difficult. It might be possible, but I am guessing the part would have to be shipped from Japan.

If you are bored, you could desolder those big capacitors and check them with a multimeter that can check capacitors. Additionally, you could desolder TR10 and do a diode check on it. There is the zener diode, ZD1, which I think you checked as 12 - .62/0 Glass . That is a little low, but still ok.
Now that you have the new transformer installed, you could re-measure those voltages that I requested before. You could also measure the AC voltage at A, B, and C in this picture. Voltage of A and B, A and C, and B and C.

circuit.jpg


So here is a question. Does the pachinko perform the jackpot/payout like it should? Does the digital display function as it should, do lights flash as they should, do the tulips behave as they should? Manually dropping balls into tulips/pockets has the correct behavior? If the answer is yes for all these things, and the only problem is continuous music playing, then the cause is most likely one of these:
Power to IC9
Signal to IC9
IC9 itself
Power to IC10
Signal to IC10
IC10 itself