powerflash franken pachi

[mudfud]

catching up with my videos, now that I'm home in berkeley

frankenpachi 6

YouTube - franken pachi powerflash6.dv

[mudfud]

caught up with videos now, 7 through 9

YouTube - franken7.dv

prep for mylar - unveiled the first surface of the acrylic after cleaning holes with a dremel tool, then stuck mylar adhesive sheet, 5 mil, onto the cell very carefully,

YouTube - mudfud1818's Channel

driling holes in ends of frame acrylic, assembling the frame and moving the hardware over, unveiling the back of the acrylic cell.

YouTube - mudfud1818's Channel

placing the tulips, rails and nails onto the acrylic cell of this visible powerflash pachinko

I went back and labelled the videos so it's easier to find steps along the way. total video is almost 2 hours (unedited), but total time ... quality time with dad: priceless

[luckydog]

everything you have done is just amazing including the videos

wouldn't it be easier doing all the nailing with the pachinko laying flat on its back???

[mudfud]

everything you have done is just amazing including the videos

wouldn't it be easier doing all the nailing with the pachinko laying flat on its back???

good question on the nails. I considered it, but it was pretty easy as it was, and I could watch to make sure I wasn't punching through the back this way... maybe easier on the bad back, too, not leaning over.

when I go back and reposition the nails deeper, I may try your suggestion. they need to go about 1/8 inch deeper in some areas right now.

thanks for watching the vids. I do try to edit then down some, so they're not too boring, even fast forwarded through tedious sections this last video.

[SphereJunkie]

Great job on the vids so far, nice editing.

[FREKKEN TEKKEN]

I went back and labelled the videos so it's easier to find steps along the way. total video is almost 2 hours (unedited), but total time ... quality time with dad: priceless

Your videos are like some of my favorite things such as potato chips, pop corn, chocolate...MONEY! You get the picture...Never enough!!Thanks for all the great pics videos and patience you have!!!

[luckydog]

how about using a flat small piece of metal to lay across a row of nails to check if level and maybe tap on that with your hammer to get them even???

[mudfud]

thanks for the comments!

LD, I went back and decided to nip the pointed end off the nails. turns out this was only risking splitting the acrylic in back, since I didn't drill all the way through - made a slightly large hole and don't want the points coming through into the solenoid layer.

this makes the nail have a square point to sit in the square hole, and as an added benefit, the slightly flared edges where the wire cutter squished give a bit of extra friction to hold the nails in place, so no glue!

I am using my handy nail puller to quickly get these nails out (they are no where near as hard to pull as real ones rusted into the wood).

got about 30 nails done in 15 minutes. taking a break before finishing the rest of the cell.

then, on to adding the jackpot layer... woo hooo

[Moparformances]

great videos ... loved the fast forward chipmonks talking and squeeking of the mylar..

great information

great project... u ready to trade back???

[mudfud]

the fast forward was a necessity, b/c my video program won't let me output just parts of the video right now, and i didn't want to start a whole new project file to edit. the chipmunks were kinda fun

maybe you need to start working on a visible slot machine, or a visible mopar, mopar ... I had wondered about making a clear acrylic hood for my electric truck, but didn't know if it would be strong enough in a front end crash

[mudfud]

frankie update: the jackpot layer is almost attached.

I had a bit of a problem trying to align the back to figure out where the screws should be... used a lot of props to hold the layer in place, and my favorite GOOP to stick the hinges in the right place. drying now, then I can hopefully just add 4 screws to each hinge bracket and be good to go.

looking from the front, you can actually see light coming through. I may be able to put the solenoid layer lights behind the whole jackpot layer... will see.

electrical's always last on my list of things, as I don't want to run the wires until I have everything else in it's place.

plan to tuck the transformer in the area below the shooter, and, my latest plan on the ball reservoir is to use an angled piece of acrylic or wood, lower on the front left, and drill a hole with a small metal disc to cover as a door. this way I can put a pachinko ball box on the left side and refill without turning the machine around.

I hope to get frankie finished mechanically today, then I can draw out lighting plans.

[Moparformances]

the fast forward was a necessity, b/c my video program won't let me output just parts of the video right now, and i didn't want to start a whole new project file to edit. the chipmunks were kinda fun

maybe you need to start working on a visible slot machine, or a visible mopar, mopar ... I had wondered about making a clear acrylic hood for my electric truck, but didn't know if it would be strong enough in a front end crash

Acrylic sides on a slot machine would be cool

i think if u can make new clear pieces for the back to replace the brown ones then add soome back lighting its going to look most excelent

[mudfud]

hinges and latches attached!

working on the finer parts, getting the clear shooter linkage in "just the right place", resoldering the loose wires in the solenoid layer.

should be able to do the first powerUP of the solenoids today.

I have a nice 4 strip LED setup that I bought from IKEA last year. it alternates between different colors and blinks. going to try placing one strip per side of the thick acrylic to see if it will light the face.

then will prob need white LED's to enhance the solenoid layer.

slowly but slowly it's getting there.

good thing i have GOOP. when things are over drilled or plastic pieces need to be repaired, I just glob some on. I should get a commission for all the projects that I mention GOOP for (electric vehicles, home repair/remodels, plumbing, pachinkos...), it's the new chewing gum for the old-timers, with bailing wire replaced by duct tape!

[mudfud]

more pix. goop in the first couple, the metal plate around the ball outflow I decided to remove, since it catches when opening the door and it looks pretty rusty. suppose it covered the bare wood, but there's nice acrylic now.

LED strips on top and sides, alternating colors. I like the blue or purple best.

one shot shows where I stuck a strip inside the solenoid layer, and it doesn't look right... gives distinct dots when I want be able to see the moving layers and the ball rolling. even if I string white LEDs in there, it will look like more dots instead of lighting the whole layer.

I am thinking now that LEDs might not light this the way I want, so maybe a halogen picture light (also have a couple from IKEA) to light from the front to show the second layer in action.

thoughts?

p.s. noticed that the ball outflow gets lit up, too, from the plastic transmission... kinda cool

[JACKSJE4]

That powerflash just keeps getting more and more awesome with each post!!

Great Job!!

[Moparformances]

I am thinking now that LEDs might not light this the way I want, so maybe a halogen picture light (also have a couple from IKEA) to light from the front to show the second layer in action.

thoughts?

I would be worried about the heat from a Halogen... what do ya think about sliding in one of thouse T6 floresent bulbs on each side...

or is there room to rope in christmas lights behind the door frame... that way the light shows threw to the back insted of from the back in your face???

p.s. noticed that the ball outflow gets lit up, too, from the plastic transmission... kinda cool

ya kinda cool??? i think u can do better then Kinda

[Siouxzan]

Wow! There's been a lot to catch up on with this project. Fun, fun, fun-- thanks for all the great documentation, videos, and details.

I continue to wonder, how did you assess that mylar would hold up better to the balls than the basal acrylic surface? I did a half-assed stability test on the heat-applied coating that I planned on using for the 50ft Woman machine, which turns out to actually be vinyl (never knew), and it looks unaffected by dozens of balls, but I want to know about how it holds up to thousands or millions.

Tell you what-- standing offer to all. If anyone wants to know, send me your suggestions for clear cell materials you are really interested in knowing about (samples would be even better). I'll make a little box to contain the balls, put the material in the bottom, and come up with a standardized test on one of my plate rockers in the lab-- e.g. 20 balls for 24 hours. It will take some time, but I will collect and post the results.

[mudfud]

a pachi surface scratch off!

plate rockers a great idea. I chose Mylar based on what the pinball guy's experience had been.

also, I can see the scratches on the acrylic windows that I have used for pachinkos, so I know it's too soft. maybe lexan would be better? too expensive in 1/2 inch sheets though.

I can send you Mylar scrap. probably have a broken sheet of acrylic, too

thx for the comments. I was reading the game room mag that LT gave me, and I saw EL electroluminescent sheets that give a solid white background. will research this next.

anyone know an inexpensive place to buy this? my first look prices out to $80 for 2 sheets 4x6 in, each with contoller board.

[mudfud]

ordered 2 EL panels, 4x6 inches, to go vertically on either side of Tbird. $78 shipped. has flashing mode on this controller. some have a dimmer. I think it's varied AC voltage that makes it dimmer? good thing I bought an oscilloscope to measure with

there are such cool electronics products on the market. always some new technology to learn about.

[dattia]

Hmmm... have you calculated the cost of this entire project yet... or are you not going there?

It is fabulous!!!