Star Wars Advice

[Zottig]

The passthrough that triggers the four square LED's are how many times the flippers underneath the start pocket will open. you can bank up to 4. They open and close so fast you might never see them do it. Also the yellow LED your talking about should light everytime a ball goes in the start pocket. Enjoy your game and keep playing it, you will figure everthing out in time.

The yellow LED in the upper left corner lights when there is a payout... that one I know about from researching, but there is also a yellow LED next to the Red dot and Red X lower on the left on the playfield. That one never seems to light. I suppose it could be burned out if it's supposed to light when the start is triggered.

Do the jaws open if it stops on the dot rather than the X?

Now I know the middle jaws works as it went crazy when I went fever (should I be scared that the only two times I won was with Boba Fett... 666?) but they RARELY open and I've been looking for it specifically... but I've seen that is the case for this machine in my research.

The only other thing I am unclear on is the two character digital display next to the Vader chance indicator. It had odd characters (IE or IC) when the game was in fever mode. Usually it displays (--) I've seen references to it via searching but nothing that explains exactly what it means or what the characters mean.

Thanks again to everyone who has answered!

Ben

[luckydog]

666 is considered a lucky number in Japan

[Chrisdice]

The yellow LED in the upper left corner lights when there is a payout... that one I know about from researching, but there is also a yellow LED next to the Red dot and Red X lower on the left on the playfield. That one never seems to light. I suppose it could be burned out if it's supposed to light when the start is triggered.

Ben

OK..I have two circles and an X in a triangle the circle on top and the X on the bottom light the circle lower to the left I never seen lit either so I guess its working the way it should. Mine is red not yellow that what threw me off. sorry.

[METZ]

666 is considered a lucky number in Japan

scary??

[compirate]

666 is considered a lucky number in Japan

That's interesting, considering the odd numbers are 'big bonus' (111,333,555,777,999) and the evens are 'regular' (222,444,666,888)

[luckydog]

My Monkey Magic usually pays out 666 tokens at the end of bonus rounds

[chmer01]

That's interesting, considering the odd numbers are 'big bonus' (111,333,555,777,999) and the evens are 'regular' (222,444,666,888)

Is this for all pachinko mahcines or just SW?

Eric C.

[Lddrizzt]

I believe it is for most.
If you look at the numbers, the odds are a different color than the evens.

[compirate]

I believe it is for most.
If you look at the numbers, the odds are a different color than the evens.

Red better than blue.

[MrGneiss]

I didn't look very hard but I found a few things...

"In Chinese culture, 666 sounds a lot like the words 'Things going smoothly'. It is considered one of the luckiest numbers in Chinese culture. It can be seen prominently in many shop windows across the country, and people there often pay extra to get a mobile phone number including this string of digits."

"· 666 - Six hundred and sixty-six is an interesting number. It is both extremely bad luck in Western culture but very good luck in many Asian cultures and Chinese culture. As everyone knows, according to the Christian bible, 666 is the number of the beast and is synonymous with Satan. 666 might actually be the most avoided number in Western culture, followed closely by the number 13. But in cultures in Asia, the pronunciation of 666 sounds very much like the phrase, "things going smoothly," and it is considered to be very lucky. Many shopkeepers will place a sign or plaque with 666 written or carved on it in their window as a good luck charm. The same goes for the front door of a home or apartment. In Western culture, 666 has appeared millions of times, almost universally in a bad connotation."

also, looking around 7 seems to be a lucky number in Japan.

[daverob]

I can't see any modifications to the main board (unless the seller did them on the back side) but thanks for the info. I mean it works OK... I really am not concerned other than I wonder what it would affect should I decide to get freaky and add a card reader, ball loan system or something.

I would have answered this earlier but I've taken a short holiday for the last week and haven't had the chance to check PachiTalk.

There shouldn't be any problem with using a machine modified like this with a dongle/card reader unit, as the modified connection is only telling the pachinko machine that a card reader is already connected to the machine, so that it can enable the ball shooter mechanism, and you can play it without the card reader unit being connected.

If you connect a card reader, it should behave as normal, the only side effect is that the card reader unit will not be able to disable the ball shooter mechanism (when it has run out of credit), but not all units do this anyway.

In the first prototype of my forthcoming 'enhanced card reader emulator dongle', I just tied this line to a voltage supply to always keep the ball shooter mechanism enabled. The current hardware design allows control over this connection, so I can implement a timed play mode. This mode wouldn't be able to be used on a machine like yours (that doesn't require a dongle) without the modification being reversed.

[arbycoffee]

As I had spoken earlier about a bypass on the board to make the dongle not needed on the Lumina frame.
This picture shows where it is located on the back where the patch on the clear case is made.


This is closer yet to show it is a short over on two connectors.


Very close up magnification of what was done, you can see the drop of solder on the "PC4".


A picture of a virgin before it has been modified


A close up magnification before the "PC4" has been modified


I have had a number of older machines (Circa 2001-04)that has been modified on the board to bypass using a dongle. Here is a Fruit King frame. As you can see this short over is right next to it the "PC4".




That is the key, the short over is on allways around or on the "PC4"

[slotter]

Very cool!!!! Thanks, Arby!!!

[daverob]

The 'PC4' in Arby's pictures is an opto-isolator chip. The solder blob mod shorts the two ouput pins of it together, making the circuit that it's connected to always think that the opto-isolator is activated.

The diode/resistor/capacitor circuit on a regular dongle simply supplies a voltage to the input LED of this opto-isolator, thus activating it all of the time that the dongle is plugged into the machine. If you want to use a card reader (or a dongle) on a modified machine, all you need to do is remove the solder blob.

[Zottig]

The 'PC4' in Arby's pictures is an opto-isolator chip. The solder blob mod shorts the two ouput pins of it together, making the circuit that it's connected to always think that the opto-isolator is activated.

The diode/resistor/capacitor circuit on a regular dongle simply supplies a voltage to the input LED of this opto-isolator, thus activating it all of the time that the dongle is plugged into the machine. If you want to use a card reader (or a dongle) on a modified machine, all you need to do is remove the solder blob.

Mine Star Wars unit definitely doesn't have that solder modification. I'll have to verify by checking the back side of the board to be sure. There seems to be no intrusion in the clear plastic case. That's why I was so confused.

[daverob]

Mine Star Wars unit definitely doesn't have that solder modification. I'll have to verify by checking the back side of the board to be sure. There seems to be no intrusion in the clear plastic case. That's why I was so confused.

If there's no intrusion into the case, check the security screws are still present on the left hand side of the case, if the bottom one has been drilled out or broken off, then the case could have been opened without having to cut a hole in it.

Looking at the circuit of the payout control board, the modification could be easily done in a few other places. Pins 1 and 2 of CN3 (the white wire and the one next to it on the blue connector) could be shorted together to permanently enable the ball shooter. There could also be pins shorted on DT2, IC4 (pins 5,6,8,9), IC16 (pins 1 or 16). There might also need to be a connection to IC9 pin 2 as well.

The mod could be done on the card reader interface connector board, or the cable that connects this board to the payout control board, It would either need the components used in the dongle to be fitted to the board, or a link to be made between pins 2 and 8 and another link between pins 1 and 7 of the interconnecting cable.

[trout16]

funny what you see when you search, my SW has been dead as door nail for mos. lol and I fnally am going after to fix it I mean I have NO power whatsoever, I ordered a Honeywell transormer but I have a BUNCH in the back output on it though is 20VA I guess thats too much and should put a lower output one on?

[birdbrain]

the transformer is capable of putting out 20Va but it will only put out what the machine takes. if the machine draws 4 amps thats all the xformer will put out. in other words it will be fine but a serious safety factor built in!!

[imsimba]

Don't feel bad, I've had my "Gladiator" machine almost 2 years and it still does things I don't understand. I thought it was going to be permanatly flipped out when I got all 9 gold fleour de leis (french pointy 3 leaf clover things) and all 9 drums went yellow after all the reals went respinning after a red/blue/purple almost match. I too don't understand the 4 red LED's in a square pattern with the XO XO pattern in the lens. Most of the time I have 2 or 3 lit. Is there a FAQ?