First pachinko machine, so of course I have questions

[GeneM]

Here is my Daiichi corner piece with the new part superglued into place
Attachment 106956 Attachment 106957

Ill send the one I made for you with the switch

Awesome, thank you so much!

[SibSr]

So after 3 searches for my roll of copper sheeting, and never finding it (and the brass rod and tubing stored with it). I ordered more from Amazon and this weekend I created the blades for the switch. I expect to find the missing stuff any day now that I've replaced it!


So I cut a 5mm wide strip of copper and then cut pieces to match my switch parts.

Daiichiswitchleavesandleads.jpg

On my machine the longer leaf with the red wire goes all the way back to the power panel, while the common goes to a central connection point about 6 inches away from the switch. If you need pictures of the wiring harness let me know.
So I gave you a 18" length of red wire and 8" of green wire to work with. So now I have the rebound bumper cover, the switch cover in orange, and the switch leaves with leads soldered on ready to go.

Daiichiswitchpartsandbumpercover.jpg

Planning a post office visit tomorrow, so PM me your address and I'll get this stuff going to you .

[SibSr]

Mailed today

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

[GeneM]

Thanks again for the parts SibSr!

Moving on to new questions…

I’d like to spray paint the ball trays and other plastic parts from the front of the machine. Any advice on which spray paint to use? Am I gonna have to sand the parts, and/or use primer?

[SibSr]

When I'm getting ready to paint trays in the front, typically there has been some kind of damage repaired. So a primer stage is a good idea to look for problem areas that might have been missed.

If the tray is in great shape, but you just want a different color, then a good quality spray paint that has the primer mixed in already will work.

I would sand the tray with like 800 grit sandpaper to knock the gloss off and give the new paint a better surface to adhere to.

Make sure to clean and dry the tray before painting. And a tack cloth wipe down right before painting is always a good idea to get a dust free surface for painting.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

[GeneM]

I’ve finally started reassembly, and I noticed that the outer rail on the playfield no longer lines up nicely with this decorative piece. It’s a small gap, but there wasn’t any gap before. Should I be concerned? Is the difference in curvature going to have a negative impact when launching the ball? This is in the top right of the playfield btw.
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[sparky kilowatt]

Shouldn't be a problem. The wires that go through the rails are holding them in place, the small gap is just cosmetic.

[GeneM]

I installed SibSr's jackpot switch last night, and wired up a quick test with the LED lights I put in. When the switch makes contact, the lights tend to flicker a bit, indicating a weak connection. I know the lights themselves are good, because I had already tested them separately. Any tips for how I can adjust the switch to get a stronger connection?

[SibSr]

The originals have separate contacts that are punched into the brass strip and provide the electrical contact surface. I have been unable to find a source for contacts that small, so I put a blob of solder on the brass strip as a form of contact surface. The blobs are not flat so the contact area is small.
My suggestions would be to adjust the brass strip to increase the pressure on the contact surfaces, or if that doesn't help possibly using a small file to flatten the tops of the solder globs a little.
I'm working on a Daiichi that has a similar flickering jackpot light, but with the original switch parts in place. I'll spend some time on fixing it and see if I can offer some advice.

[GeneM]

I filed away a little bit of the solder, and that seemed to work pretty well. Oddly enough, there's a bit of a flicker when the switch separates, perhaps from wobbling of the two leaves.

[Wayne-Ooo]

I filed away a little bit of the solder, and that seemed to work pretty well. Oddly enough, there's a bit of a flicker when the switch separates, perhaps from wobbling of the two leaves.

That's fairly normal. It's just a matter of adjustment, by bending the strips or even the solid wire that is contacting the strip.
Of course, the contact points need to be clean and line up to each other.

[SibSr]

I filed away a little bit of the solder, and that seemed to work pretty well. Oddly enough, there's a bit of a flicker when the switch separates, perhaps from wobbling of the two leaves.

Yes, I have seen flicker from the brass strips continuing to move after the payoff action is over even with the original switch parts. The strips are longer than many of the others I've seen, and they have a very skinny middle section. (which I duplicated).
I'm experimenting with adjustments now, with a next idea of putting a small block of closed cell foam with slits for the leaves in it as a damper to prevent the wobbling.

[GeneM]

Thank you everyone for your help, it has been huge in getting me through the restoration process. I finally finished reassembling the back this morning, here’s what it looks like all cleaned up and ready to go. I’ll post pictures of the front when I get it done. I’m excited to finally get to play some pachinko!

IMG_1028.jpg

[SibSr]

Well. it looks really good. Nice Work

[GeneM]

Attachment 107588Attachment 107589Attachment 107590Attachment 107591Attachment 107592
It’s done!!!

[SibSr]

Looks great!
I like your spinners

[takethecastle57]

Attachment 107588Attachment 107589Attachment 107590Attachment 107591Attachment 107592
It’s done!!!

None of the links work . Post your photos on this Thread with the Tool Box Above the post box .

[GeneM]

None of the links work . Post your photos on this Thread with the Tool Box Above the post box .

Weird, that’s what I did.

[GeneM]

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[sparky kilowatt]

Looks great, nice job!