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Thread: Rotted out connectors

  1. #1
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Rotted out connectors

    I am getting a malfunction on one of my older moderns and found 2 of the headers, where they connect to the pins on the main board box have rotted (rusted) out some of the connectors.

    How hard is it to change out the metal connectors? What do I buy? Is it easier to replace the whole header block, and if so do the connectors come pre-installed? One is a 15 pin, and one is a 13 pin.

    Sorry for the questions, but this is a new process for me.

    IMG_1427.JPG

    This is the 13.
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    is there a manufacturer mark on those.Usually they will have a Jst , Or mx, etc. one number can signify how many pins. you may need a pin extractor to get the old off without shortening that harness too much. some markings might be on side ,back or face of it. you may need a magnifying glass to see them.

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  4. #3
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    I see it. One is marked MX0 D1 / 5047, the other is MX-0-A 2 / 5047. Not sure what that means, but there it is.

    I'm browsing the Molex/Mouser/Allied websites. Confusing to find what you actually want.
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    when you get it sorted get some of this

    https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2205.../dp/B000AL8VD2
    Never Doubt that a small group of thoughtful, .......... /........ If your not going to stand behind our troops
    ...committed people can change the world. ............. /.................Please, Please stand in front of them
    .....Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has............./
    .........................................Margaret Mead

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    those are molex and prob molex jp style. i have had to get some replaced that were obsolete and was lucky to find some at Mouser. An older machine may be harder to get them for. i bet the pins in that are curled. here is a nice site that shows many different types and how the pins look.

    http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/cri...ors/#milligrid

    maybe you can see a similar pin and see. its possible the pin is corroded or just not making good contact anymore. or it needs to be bent a small amount to put pressure against the other pin for good contact. i have only had to replace connectors that had broken plastic retainers or broken ends that capture the pins. ie the got smashed in transport etc. im not able to find any data sheets on those 2 mlolex.

    mx is molex the 0 may signify pin 1 and 5047 is the type

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    No way to salvage what I have. When I pulled the sockets off the headers the broken bits came tumbling out.

    I was able to find some 4 pin and 10 pin sockets with wires attached in a pachinko parts box, and some old cd-rom drive 2 sockets so I chopped the wires and went to soldering. It's not the most beautiful thing in the world, but it does work.

    Except, at some point it must have blown a capacitor, cause it's fat, reading 0 volts.

    Need a 223K 100V Cap (or 6?), so I'll have to go looking. It's a row of 6 reading 4.73v except the bad one.

    Thinking I should probably pull them all.

    Thoughts?
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    223 should be .022uf K is +-10% tolerance

    http://www.robotoid.com/appnotes/ele...-markings.html


    Mouser may have them take a look and compare with what you have

    https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...r?keyword=.022


    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...FDGVTGWw83Y%3d

    is it a film cap or electrolytic?
    Last edited by samslack; 02-13-2019 at 12:52 AM. Reason: added link

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Thanks for the info. They're the film caps. Found some on the bay so ordered 10 for $4. I guess they use them for guitars so pretty common.
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    the film ones yes thats why i asked are they film or electrolytic. there are. you could also find the aluminum electrolytic ones cheap. most of mine have those.

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    do you have a picture of those caps?

  14. #11
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Here's the shot of the board. The one right in the front (green) is blown. At least it's easily accessible.

    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    nice looks like a film cap for sure. your lucky its easy to get to. when you solder if your iron has a temp on it keep it at lower temp to keep it from damaging other components or leads. but looks like you will be in good shape!!! good luck!

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  18. #13
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Thanks. I have de-soldering braid, but my thoughts are to clip the leads instead of de-soldering from the board and solder the new ones to the legs. I did this with an old Samsung TV when the caps blew, and it worked out so easy. Just clip on a heat sink/clamp and away you go.
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Edit to above: Second evaluation, there's only about 1/4" of the leg exposed so de-soldered it is.
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    bummer let us know how it worked out.

  21. #16
    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    just thinking of this trick i have used that may help desolder easily. I use this technique when repairing those small surface mount components. get a solder type spade terminal and crimp it with a small plyers on the end of your tip. you can spread it if the space is greater. This way it heats both at the same time. Unless there is enough leg exposed to get one leg off at a time. it could help.15509017534648489587305866779484.jpg

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  23. #17
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Totally confused here... The problem started with this machine because I couldn't get the video reels to spin when a ball goes through the spin pocket. This lead to the discovery of the bad connectors, which now are all fine now.

    I changed out the (what I thought was blown) capacitor, but still doesn't have any voltage reading across it. I can jumper transistor, Q26, (emitter to collector), and the reels will spin (found this out by accident), so I know it will work.

    I also changed out the transistor (q26), in case it was a fluke or something, but the trick still works. I know what your thinking, but there aren't any payouts when you do this!

    Just can't seem to track down the root of the problem.

    Thoughts?
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Can you take another pic of that board or remove that board and take pics of both sides? Not sure if thats possible or how easy it is to remove it. Sounds like whatever feeds that isnt right somewhere

  25. #19
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    Very close to bed, so I can't get new photos up until tomorrow.

    I have to be looking at this from the wrong perspective. The + side of the cap is connected to the top left pin of the bottom IC chip, so, I'm thinking the voltage must be fed from the chip to the cap(?)...

    Tracing everything from there, it traces to the connectors that goes off to the daughter board where the ball sensor would be connected.

    If so, I either need to figure out why there's no voltage coming from the chip(fried?), or something else.

    0212192058a-1.jpg
    Gotta catch 'em all Pa-chink-o

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    Fever Hunter samslack's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rotted out connectors

    the sensor sounds like its the "control" dont know for sure without a schematic or tracing it myself but sensors have been known to go bad. it could be possible the sensor is not triggering the circuit or feed that turns that on / feeds that cap. i am speculating at this point. electronics that use logic chips usually have power, a control to enable / disable and then an output or isolated output to turn something on or off. at least thats what it sounds like from your description.

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