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Thread: Playfield replacement

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Playfield replacement

    I've decided to replace the play field on my Sanyo Comet.

    I'm trying to remove the ball tracks which appear to be held down with what appear to be cotter pins.

    First one I tried to pull broke, so is there a special technique for pulling them up?

    Also what size cotter pins do I get to replace them / or what do you all use instead?

    Thanks in advance.
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    Eye Shooter Tink's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Once you've got all the back parts removed. I just pull the staples and cut them off flush to the back with side cutters. Then pry up the track on the front. Use 20 ga SS wire for replacement.

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    After pulling the new wire through to the rear of the machine, bend it so it lays down on the wood. Then while pulling the wire ends down with a pair of pliers ( use a long piece of wire for this process so you have plenty to grab on to and also be out of the way of the stapler) to make sure the track is tight against the playfield, staple the ends to hold them in place and then hammer the staple in and trim off the excess.
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Thanks for the advise. I was trying to pull the front off while the back was still in place. I realize now it's impossible! I've got it all stripped down with only the nails and those two posts that hold the loading mechanism in place. I'm guessing those are just hammered in? Hope I can get those out without ruining the plastic!
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Been a long time since I’ve been around a vintage machine so I’m not sure what posts you’re referring to but I remember using small nail pullers, pliers, etc to remove nails that hold parts to the playfield. I’ve also ground off nail heads with a dremel to remove a part and then removed the nail shank with pliers.
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    Pachi Puro mxfaiman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Tink View Post
    Once you've got all the back parts removed. I just pull the staples and cut them off flush to the back with side cutters. Then pry up the track on the front. Use 20 ga SS wire for replacement.


    Feed the wire through the holes, twist it up good. Staple it down, give a few taps with a hammer to set in the wood, then smear with wood glue. Overkill, probably. But I want these to last another 40+ years.

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Cool! Good to know those tricks.

    I pulled all the nails in about 45 minutes. Wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I used terminal pliers and a block of wood. The curved opening for crimping was big enough to get around the nail then come up underneath and grab the head without scarring the nail shaft.

    The posts I mentioned, I was able to get the 10 gauge stripper under the metal head and lift out easy peasy.

    Next is removing the old cell paper. Advice?
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Peel it off however you can and then sand down the remaining paper to bare wood. Sometimes it comes off with minimal effort or it’s real stubborn. An orbital sander is great for this.
    Fill any divots with wood filler and sand smooth.
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Peel it gently and try not to tear it, you'll need it for a template to punch all the nail and other mounting holes back in on the new background.

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    I took a wide putty knife and was able to lift it off in one piece, but it left a lot of paper.

    Gonna be at it with the sander for a while.

    There are several ugly ball divots in the old cell and into the wood where I guess they banged on the plexi. Will definitely be needing some filler.
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Palm sander and 60 grit will remove the paper and glue easily. I then go 150. 220 and finish with 600.

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Mist it down with water (normal spray bottle works well) and use the putty knife to scrape off most the remaining paper. We found out the adhesive is water based. This will save you a lot of sanding time and paper. Though this stuff smells awful when scraping off so be sure to catch all the blobs to throw out.

    Then sand up to around 320 grit. We apply 3 coats of sanding sealer. Then scuff lightly with 400 grit. Apply new vinyl background (helps to have 2 people. One to pull off the backing and one to slowly push it down) Then apply a sheet of clear mylar over the top. Then cut out all the holes with an exacto knife.

    Make sure you save the old backgound so you can use it as a template to find all the nail holes. There will be a wooden peg on the top and bottom. Use those to line up the background. Then tape it down with some masking tape. We found a small pick (90 degree bent works best) works great for poking all the nail holes. After this you can then remove the old background and start reinstalling nails.

    Reinstall all the pockets on your machine. Then the nails.

    For the nails they should be 18mm from the board to the bottom of the nail head. They also all should have a 4 degree angle to the top of the board. If you don't have a brass head hammer, go invest in one as it will reduce marring of the nail heads. Also wear gloves when handling freshly polished nails. As the oils in your hands are what make them tarnish quickly.

    After that is done you are ready for the track. Best to do one track at a time working smallest to largest section. Cut pieces of 20 ga SS safety wire to about 3-4 inches long. Feed through and fold in half. Stick through the holes in the board. Also hammer the nails for the track in first before going father. Then I like to use 2 pairs of forceps to lock onto each wire. I then give them a good pull and start to twist them. We then yank them up as hard as we can and then (second person handy) staple them to the background with either an electric stapler or pneumatic stapler. Normal hand ones don't pack enough punch. We also use 3/8" long staples. Then we find a hole where the original cotter pin was driven in. Clip the wires to just past that. Then feed the tip into the hole and hammer it down flat. Then smear wood glue all over it.

    If need be I can get you a picture of how the wire looks when done tomorrow.

    Man that was a mouthful. I had a video of how we install the track. But not sure where that went to. Plus I'm terrible at making instructional videos.

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Also if anyone wants a pin tool that I designed (can be found here http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/show...l=1#post567808) I'm currently making 6 of them. Just PM me, all I ask is that you cover postage as the material cost is nothing to me.

    These work great for setting nails as they are exactly the 18mm height and the front has the proper angle on it.

    Also forgot to mention when installing nails it works best starting from the bottom up so you can keep checking the angle.

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  22. #14
    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Great advice!

    Can't wait to start putting it back together over the week between Christmas and New Year's. (If I can get the nails finished!)

    mxfaiman, if you would put a photo of the wire installation, that would be great! Thanks!
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    Pachi Puro mxfaiman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Here are some pictures of the wire installed. (currently just finished another playfield replacement on a machine.)

    20171219_170432_HDR.jpg20171219_170450_HDR.jpg

    For the ends of the wire we drill a 1/16" hole and feed them in (you kinda can see it in the first picture) That way the will never pop up and interfere with anything. Plus no sharp pointy things sticking up.
    Last edited by mxfaiman; 12-20-2017 at 11:30 AM.

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    Pachi Puro Ikaria's Avatar
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Thanks for that!

    Next question is on nails. I've started inspecting and cleaning, but all of them have some bend to them, some worse than others.

    I know they will have to be adjusted once they are in the play field, but trying to get them straight takes a lot of patience.

    I put them in the drill chuck and spin them and adjust them back to straight. Am I wasting my time? Advice?
    Last edited by Ikaria; 12-20-2017 at 09:48 PM.
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    As you say, once reinstalled they will need adjusting. Be careful not to scar them in the drill chuck.

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    I said the heck with it. Tomorrow they are going in the tumbler, and I'll adjust them when they are reinstalled.

    I have a bag of crushed walnut shells and some mothers mag polish. That should do a good job on getting them shiny.
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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    I run the tumbler 24 hours with shells and polish then 24 more with just shells. Should come out like new

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    Default Re: Playfield replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Tink View Post
    I run the tumbler 24 hours with shells and polish then 24 more with just shells. Should come out like new


    Use fresh walnut for the second round.

    Also don't waste time straightening the nails. You fix that during install. Though ones with really bad bends should be fixed.

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