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Thread: 1952 with ball lifter

  1. #61
    Pachi Puro Moparformances's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    i have a few sets of small machinist clamps like the ones listed below... they might help ya in your solder endeavors.. the listing below is for reference.. the price is ridiculous

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Machinist-P...MAAOSwkAxcKAp7
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  3. #62
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I was thinking of buying some heat sinks for soldering. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOZAN-Soldering-Heat-sink-heat-clip-6mm-H-73-Japan/163068145581?hash=item25f79e6fad:g:8UUAAOSwgStbC4i7:rk:20f:0 Very small area of contact, solder wont stick to aluminum. As the name states they will suck off some of the heat...but don't have enough mass to make a difference. Almost NO clamping strength whatsoever...but the brass tab is extremely light. Very little strength needed.

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    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-481.jpg Only held on with 2 tacks.

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  7. #64
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Try some solder wick and a little flux. Works great on small connections.


    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    I was thinking of buying some heat sinks for soldering. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOZAN-Soldering-Heat-sink-heat-clip-6mm-H-73-Japan/163068145581?hash=item25f79e6fad:g:8UUAAOSwgStbC4i7:rk:20f:0 Very small area of contact, solder wont stick to aluminum. As the name states they will suck off some of the heat...but don't have enough mass to make a difference. Almost NO clamping strength whatsoever...but the brass tab is extremely light. Very little strength needed.
    Pachinko -Nishijin "C" Fishing Game & Hockey, Red Lions, CR Red Lions, Heiwa Double Wing, Takao Bruce Lee, SanseiR&D 777 Sevens Rock, Sankyo Wanted!, lots of other vintages!; Pachislo -SPIN LUCK, Kung Fu Lady, Gamera High Grade, Gundam

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  9. #65
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Was tired when last pic was posted, so comments were kept to a minimum. Soldering the brass was fairly easy, except I think 1/8" solder requires more heat thanI was comfortable applying. Fear of other solder joints melting and the whole assembly falling apart. After the fact, I wondered if using rosin core solder (which is much thinner) would have worked better, due to less heat needed. Soldering the brass U turn to the hopper was frustrating. Solder flowed and stuck to the brass, but beaded up and rolled off of the steel. I got them together...but, with bead of solder that looks like it is resting on the steel as opposed to blending into it. I'm not sure if the metal wasn't clean enough, of if not enough heat for the solder to stick to the steel. At one point of contact, I filed the oxidation off to shiny metal. Still had problems. Since it is stuck, and each piece is nailed to the wood...I'm going to leave it alone. The brass part has 5 tiny tacks that hold it down, although 3 of them are filled with solder. I'll probably drill those holes with a tiny drill as I don't plan to apply any more heat to it.
    Now I turn my attention to the bottom tray. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-489.jpg I'm surprised that neither the front or side has a tab bent into a corner to give a surface to solder to. Just two flat pieces of steel that meet at the corner that was once soldered together. The air gaps at the bottom are a tab soldered to close the end of the trough that is not big enough for full coverage. It was made that way and doesn't present a problem. I discovered a couple of modifications from a previous owner. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-492.jpg At the end of the trough, at the entrance of the ball lifter...the corner was cut off. The cuts are not straight, and sharp edges. Therefore I believe it was done after the machine was made. Not shure why...maybe to use a finger to free up ball stopages at the ball lifter? While inspecting this area, I discovered a sliding brass door. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-493.jpg The left end was originally bent down, but someone bent it flat...don't know why. I want to bend it back...but it has a crack, and I'm sure that bending it back will break it off. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-495.jpg Backlighting the paper towel allows the camera to see the crack. The brass door slid out easy, so I was able to clean it. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-499.jpg Not sure what the hole is for, as it is in the folds of steel that make the track that it slides in. If I can find a piece of brass the correct thickness (.031") it should be east to make a replacement part. Of course I'm afraid that what I find will be too thin. I think it is to drain the lower hopper. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-500.jpg This would be the open position. The hole would be larger if the tab was bent in the correct position. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-501.jpg When installed, the door can't be slid this far because the "handle" which should be bent down, is where the ball lifter is. Notice the hole is no longer visible. This rules out spring to return to closed.
    I scrubbed the whole hopper with Brillo pads. Dried with paper towels, and put on top of a propane space heater to evaporate any water in the inaccesable areas. I'm not sure if it was overzealous scrubbing, or heat that melted solder...but I created a new problem! 2050-12-31 23.59.59-498.jpg This is the original position of the retaining wall. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-496.jpg This is the unsoldered position. I now have to learn how to resolder the oxidized steel. I can sand the exposed steel to shiny metal, but the lip wuth solder on it tucks under the top layer of the floor. Making the "inside" layer clean metal won't be easy. Leaving it alone probably insures failure. I'm more confident of applying sufficient heat to saturate the steel without causing other solder joint failure. Even if the near solder joint liquefies, there are other solder joints farther away that will hold the upper floor in place.
    Last edited by pachiwall; 01-02-2019 at 11:20 PM.

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  11. #66
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    When I barely attached the upper tray, I had to function test it. All balls, wheb dropped in small quantities went to the track closest to the cell. Once that track was full, the other track would fill. I expect this is because only 2 nails were used to hang it, and was peobably not lined up properly. When the cell is replaced, and parts are permanantly attached, and properly aligned, I expect them to fill properly. Even if not, It shouldn't be a problem, as with enough balls, both tracks will fill. Every time a ball is dropped into a jackpot, 15 balls payout. Problem is, on the first jackpot...some balls got stuck here. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-488.jpg Each subsequent jackpot payed out 15 balls, and all 15 came out the front, as there is no more room for them to get stuck. I suspected that the machine was not lever on the workbench. However that don't really make sense. Upon looking at the pics, I believe that the bell is too far away. If the bracket is bent inward, closing the gap, There would be nowhere for the balls to get stuck at. I will be testing this theory soon.

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  13. #67
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Moved bell...works great!. The lever above the bell diverts the jackpot balls out the back to the rear lower tray.

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  15. #68
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Couldn't stand the brass trap door bent flat. Expected it to break, but carefully bent it anyhow.2050-12-31 23.59.59-491.jpg 2050-12-31 23.59.59-486.jpg Of course it is cracked almost half way through. Clearly this will break someday if used as intended. My best guess to intended use is to empty the lower tray. To give it strength, I soldered a piece of 12 gauge copper wire to the inside corner. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-494.jpg The solder flowed beyond the edge of the wire on one side. This minor change in thickness prevented the door from sliding into the groove. I filed the solder away, and it appears to be a success. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-503.jpg
    Last edited by pachiwall; 01-04-2019 at 01:18 AM.

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