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Thread: 1952 with ball lifter

  1. #41
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    0827180234.jpg This (after clamping) would be the 1st solder joint...and the part that I'm most concerned about. If successful, then onto solder joint #2. 0827180235.jpg
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  3. #42
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    The small tab connecting the outer bend to the inner bend should be soldered as well.

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    Fever Hunter Spear's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    As far as doing the soldering, get one of the small, butane powered hobby torches, or a Brule (sp) torch. Won't get as hot, should be fine for brass like this. It's what I use for some trombone repairs...

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  6. #44
    Eye Shooter cait001's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    super cool to see the ball lifter, thanks!

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  8. #45
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    1 While considering this machine for a candidate for a machine for
    http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/show...Reclaimed-wood I can't seem to find the metal pocket that I removed!
    Found this pocket...I put it in a plastic storage container on a shelf!

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  10. #46
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I got the hobby torch. Didn't take a pic of it. I did take more important pics. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-413.jpg Clamped together with a wood shim on the hot side to protect the plastic clamp pads. Then clamped the big clamp to the leg of my computer table.I had previously polished the brass because I don't think it can be soldered with patina on it. Once you start polishing, it's hard to stop. Two clamps to hold the brass plate evenly to the track...and to evenly hold the whole assembly together in case I overheated it an other joints came unsoldered. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-414.jpg So far, so good. Not a particularly pretty solder joint, but soldered all the way around. When cleaning the flux off, I sprayed some alcohol into the inside of the "U"...and it didn't seep through the joint. The brass turned a "rose gold" color from the heat, but it polished back to brass. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-415.jpg 2050-12-31 23.59.59-417.jpg Then the outer part gets soldered. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-419.jpg Then...finally, the test fit! 2050-12-31 23.59.59-424.jpg It looks odd, being the only shiny part. But since it needs a new cell, I can wait to clean up the other brass parts. I would probably leave the patina...if I could make the shiny part look like the rest of the brass. I put some balls in the track to see if they would flow through. Tested 3 JP cycles, and it worked...pretty good. Once a few balls got stuck in the repaired part. Fortunately, it wasn't due to the solder job, but due to the alignment of the U turn to the next track. That will be easy to fix later. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-425.jpg Now to remove and fix the other end. This one will likely be trickier, due to the fact that it is soldered to the reward hopper. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-426.jpg The same clamping will be needed...but, additional support to hold the whole assembly while soldering. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-427.jpg
    At this point, I have more confidence to tackle the next one due to my success with the first one!

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  12. #47
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by Tink View Post
    Very cool. Love the spinners.
    Thanks! I really love the spinners too!

  13. #48
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I took the reward hopper and brass U turn off today. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-412.jpg 2050-12-31 23.59.59-431.jpg The side is bowed out and the solder seam is broken. And the corner slightly bent. Plus the corner of the "roof" that covers the ball channel has lifted a little. Trying to straighten the bow without unsoldering the corner will be a trick. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-416.jpg 2050-12-31 23.59.59-418.jpg The small tab in the middle is loose but still attached. The crud on the tin "funnel" appears to be tape residue...based on the matching crud on the brass part. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-428.jpg I'm going to finish breaking the curved part from the backing plate. Easier to hammer the bends out when apart. No good pic to show it, but small bends in the backing plate from prying the nails out. Plus, the crisp edges of the broken solder makes a ledge that you can feel when trying to align the parts to clamp together. If I unsolder it, then the solder joint would smoothe out and make alignment a guessing game. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-429.jpg Now is the time to clean and polish the inside. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-420.jpg And this as well. So many nooks and crannies to clean. I did some light scrubbing with a Brillo pad. "Light" scrubbing because I don't really want to try to make the tin shine...who am I kidding, that stuff never comes clean! Plus, I am afraid of breaking other solder joints. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-435.jpg This is a mock up of the final position when soldered. Lots of prep work needed first.
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  15. #49
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-433.jpg Another damaged corner. And finally, the baby torch that I did the first part with. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-436.jpg

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  17. #50
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-437.jpg Caught the edge of the brass with the buffing wheel!2050-12-31 23.59.59-438.jpg Didn't destroy it...but took the momentum out of what will I do to it tonight!

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  19. #51
    Fever Hunter Rumpled's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Are the spinners plastic underneath or metal? .. Asking as they could be replicated using a jewelry saw and saw piercing... I am thinking of making a set, but it would have to be totally metal as I don’t have the plastic.

    Unless there is the 3D print of the spinner somewhere?
    Jewelry Metalworking, Chainmaille, Pachinko
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  20. #52
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpled View Post
    Are the spinners plastic underneath or metal? .. Asking as they could be replicated using a jewelry saw and saw piercing... I am thinking of making a set, but it would have to be totally metal as I don’t have the plastic.

    Unless there is the 3D print of the spinner somewhere?
    Totally metal! Judging from your signature, You can probably do it. But you are going to need details! So I pulled one off,,,and gently cleaned it. They are hand painted and I am afraid of shining the paint off. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-439.jpg I didn't like the pic with the flash...2050-12-31 23.59.59-440.jpg so I took it again without, it took 3 attempts, my shadow kept getting in the way. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-441.jpg I don"t really like the back with flash either, but included it in case it reveals details that may be helpful. Here are a few without flash. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-442.jpg 2050-12-31 23.59.59-443.jpg The wings are 3 pieces of sheet metal. Looking at the first two pics, it looks like a small tube goes through the middle. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-445.jpg Not sure how the cone shaped part on the back is made. My guess would be...make a cone shaped dimple in a piece of wood, then use a matching shaped rod to hammer some metal into it. Then once you have the basic shape...then, something something something! i don't know how to make them...that's why I'm afraid of damaging them. I could hand paint them, but they would look hand painted (not in a good way). 2050-12-31 23.59.59-446.jpg The front metal is folded over to give a smooth edge. I don't know how that was done...there are no ripples and it is perfectly round.
    I tried cleaning the painted surface with Windex, but it didn't do much. So I tried metasl polish. It helped, but the red just won't shed the dark stain. I didn't continue to clean for fear of removing the paint. The back side...I worked hard with metal polish and a cotton swab.

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  22. #53
    Fever Hunter Rumpled's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Ooooh, I will have to make a few attempts. I have a disk cutter, and a dapper (makes curves) so I will see what I can make out of thin copper. Thanks so much.
    Jewelry Metalworking, Chainmaille, Pachinko
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  24. #54
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Let me know if you need specific pics or dimensions.

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  26. #55
    Fever Hunter Rumpled's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I should be able to use the plastic ones. At least to start. And I just realized the parts machine I just got has the saem bottoms, but not those nifty tops, so using those as models for the bottoms, I can see what I can make. Sorry for the hijack. Eek.
    Jewelry Metalworking, Chainmaille, Pachinko
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  27. #56
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Got brave and decided to solder the other U turn. In addition to clamping it together to keep it from falling apart if it gets too hot and the original solder joints fail. I also needed to find a way to clamp it steady, as it will be too it to hold, and one hand for torch and other for solder. 1229180026.jpg The solder is 1/8" thick, so a good amount of heat was needed. Fortunately no other solder joints failed. Not particularly happy with the looks, but it seems to be strong. 1229180002.jpg 1229180002a.jpg1229180003.jpg1229180003a.jpg

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  29. #57
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Batterys are dead in my good camera, so took these and posted with my cell phone. Tedious, but seems to work.
    Soldered inner track first. While fitting the outer track, I managed to break off the tab.1229180019.jpg After releasing a torrent of words...I proceeded to clamp the outer track and solder it. 1229180101.jpg Once again, not happy with the looks. The spots that look like too little solder is at, seeped through and is attached to the inside. Clamping the tab in place was the most difficult, as so little contact is made. Plus my clamps are too bulky and in order to get a grip, it completely covers the tab. I'm afraid of soldering the part to my clamp. Attempt was made to solder the largest part of the an first...then flex the part so the other side has enough contact.1229180102.jpg1229180102a.jpg

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  31. #58
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Now that all the pics are posted I switched to my computer as I hate the virtual keyboard.
    Pic #2 was supposed to be inner and outer rails soldered without the tab. Apparantly I never took that pic, and I couldn't tell from the thumbnails on my phone. You may be able to see a tiny gap between the tab and outer rail in pic #3. I need to squeeze it a bit to get some surface contact for my outer joint. Apparantly I did not get the parts lined up perfectly...but I did test it with a pachinko ball. Plenty of clearance! I had to give up for now as I was getting frustrated. That is when mistakes are made. The inner part of the tab does not look like enough solder to hold well. It also has a lip where solder stuck to the clamp. A blob of solder also stuck to the outer rail preventing me from flexing it to getbetter contact. That was when I decided , ENOUGH!

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  33. #59
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    Attempt was made to solder the largest part of the an first...then flex the part so the other side has enough contact.
    Stupid virtual keyboard...and fat fingers! Should say "of the tab first"

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  35. #60
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Solder always follows the heat source. Good luck getting it fixed up!
    Pachinko -Nishijin "C" Fishing Game & Hockey, Red Lions, CR Red Lions, Heiwa Double Wing, Takao Bruce Lee, SanseiR&D 777 Sevens Rock, Sankyo Wanted!, lots of other vintages!; Pachislo -SPIN LUCK, Kung Fu Lady, Gamera High Grade, Gundam

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