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Thread: 1952 with ball lifter

  1. #21
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Ran out of editing time again. So to repeat everything I typed above...first 4 pics are the same thing. A piece of spring steel that has a peg on the end that works like the pawl on the Silver brand lifter to hold the weight of the balls in the tube. Four different pics under different lighting conditions to make sure one of them works....#4 is the best. Since the tray is held in place with finishing nails without a head, the tray leans outward, and balls get hung up behind the curved wall. It has to be held level with my non cranking hand, while holding the output of the tray/input to ball lifter in line. I can feel slippage when cranking...but balls do reach the top tray, as seen in the last pic.
    just reviewed the above pics...all 4 of the 1st pics were good enough to show the spring, just couldn't tell by thumbnails.
    I originally wanted to not restore, but keep all the patina of age. Since it must be totally disassembled to replace the cell, I am torn between keeping patina, and only replacing the cell, vs clean and shine everything while it is apart.
    Last edited by pachiwall; 09-01-2017 at 10:11 PM.

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  3. #22
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Got the digital camera working! I erased absolutely everything on the SD card. You would think that if there was simply full...it would say that as opposed to "write error". 2050-12-31 23.59.59-13.jpg As mentioned, the cell is in very bad shape. I'm thinking that a PowerFlash cell would be very close. A local UPS store has a large printer. Maybe I can take a chip from the cell for a color match, and a replacement cell from Pachinko Planet as an example of what I want it printed on. See which is the better option.
    As mentioned earlier, the top tray seems expressly designed for the ball lifter option. 2050-12-31 23.59.59.jpg Notice the inner wall stops short of the right side. At the gap is a low wall. When top tray is appreaching full, balls spill over the low wall and roll to the left in the channel formed by the inner and outer walls.2050-12-31 23.59.59-4.jpg Then roll to the ball dump track.

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  5. #23
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-2.jpg Not sure what the spring loaded door at the top of the jackpot is for.
    Of course I am always interested in the little windows that I call "jackpot reserve chamber" Often when athe seesaw is in the down position, the ball goes into a chamber where you can see it through a window in the front. Some machines have a button or lever on the front, where the player can redeem the JP balls after the seesaw has been reset. Others need to be redeemed from behind from the parlor attendant. On this machine, there is a window, but no way for a ball to get inside the chamber. If the seesaw is down, and a JP is hit, it rests against the seesaw stop, like newer vintage machines.2050-12-31 23.59.59-14.jpg There is a clear piece of plastic on the backside of the playfield. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-15.jpg And a piece of clear plastic on the front of the playfield, where you can see that you will get your jackpot when seesaw is reset. I cleaned both front and back windows with plastic polish to make the ball easier to see. This also allowed me to study the fact that with plastic on front and back...it actually makes a chamber that on some machines stores winning balls, but has absolutely no entrance. I see no value to the lower window at all. No balls come close to it, and all you can see through it is the brass jackpot arm moving through its cycle.

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  7. #24
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-1.jpg I can't do much function testing because there is a broken solder joint that shifts position when under pressure of balls. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-3.jpg This side is broken as well. It actually sits in the correct position, I just shifted it for the pic. I tried to cycle a jackpot...but both of these turns created problems. I do believe it will work again, just gonna need a lot of work. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-9.jpg I have only seen a tray dump on early modern and modern machines. First time I have ever seen this on a vintage...let alone an antique. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-10.jpg

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  9. #25
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-5.jpg Soft shots rolling back down return to front tray through this opening. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-11.jpg You can see light coming through the gap below the tray. The official dividing line between machine and frame. Does not have the typical wingnut that makes the "quick change" for what I assume is...frames firmly mounted to the wall, and "machines" swapped out using the wingnut system. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-12.jpg Clearly this screw is not original. I can't see what holds the machine in the frame...other than this screw. However, I have not studied it enough.
    Can anyone translate these images? 2050-12-31 23.59.59-6.jpg I never was any good at figuring out the year of machines...but I don't see ane # that adding 25 to equals 52. Plus it would be nice to know what it says. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-7.jpg "turn this way?" 2050-12-31 23.59.59-8.jpg This one is above the ball tray. Maybe the name of who made it?

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  11. #26
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Of course I couldn't go to bed wondering what the feeder mechanism looked like.2050-12-31 23.59.59-16.jpg Clearly there is no mechanism. Balls simply roll in front of the hammer as soon as the one in front of it is launched away. I always thought that the mechanism inside of the feeder tray door was necessary to feed the shooter 1 ball at a time. Clearly not true. It is simply there to regulate the speed of the balls to 100 per minute.2050-12-31 23.59.59-17.jpg There are many scrapes on the blue paint of the tray. I scrubbed it with SOS pad after this pic, but I don't think I will strip and polish it. I will wery likely leave it as is...well cleaned. I was careful with the SOS pad to only remove crud and not paint. A lot of nicotine stains all over it.

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  13. #27
    Pachi Puro emmadog's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    the adding of 25 to get the age only works for a certain range of years this machine likely falls outside of that. i used a translate app and it translated the 3 characters to the left of the red character as "Super Speed". The large ones as "Maruomaru Factory".
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

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  15. #28
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-19.jpg That hook just hanging there has been bothering me. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-18.jpg Now I see that it is part of the ball dump system.

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  17. #29
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Then I got to thinking...Just lowering the track wont dump the balls! Well it will on some machines, but you can see the extra linkage. So I present to you...the newly discovered ancient secret! 2050-12-31 23.59.59-20.jpg Normal operation...even though the tracks aren't in alignment. 2050-12-31 23.59.59-21.jpg Unhook ball dump track, then swing open brass plate that holds back. You have now entered "BALL DUMP MODE"!

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  19. #30
    Pachi Puro mxfaiman's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by emmadog View Post
    i used a translate app and it translated the 3 characters to the left of the red character as "Super Speed". The large ones as "Maruomaru Factory".
    Did the same thing with the translate from image (only on phone app) for the lifter crank. It read "Return Former Vessel" or in proper English, "return to former vessel".

    For those who want to know how the app image to text works check this out. pretty cool.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zKU7jDA2nc

    100 machines and counting...

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  21. #31
    Pachi Puro Peteybob's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by mxfaiman View Post
    Did the same thing with the translate from image (only on phone app) for the lifter crank. It read "Return Former Vessel" or in proper English, "return to former vessel".

    For those who want to know how the app image to text works check this out. pretty cool.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zKU7jDA2nc
    Very cool!!

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  23. #32
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    When I took the cover off of the ball lifter, I was surprised to see that it was a rubber wheel rather than a gear!
    I hadn't thought of it earlier, but I once talked the technician at a bowling alley into taking me behind the pin setters to see how they worked. The ball return worked the same way. Pinched the ball between a metal plate and a rubber roller and rolled it up a few feet to drop onto the return chute. Works for a bowling ball, don't see why it wouldn't for a pachinko ball. Hmm....
    pachinkoparts.com - Home Page
    Definition: Racecar-a device that turns money into noise.

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  25. #33
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    The rubber wheel is hardening a bit on the surface, and glazed a bit. It still lifts, but I can feel some slipping. Is there any way to soften the rubber again? I'm afraid that sanding the surface to softer rubber would reduce the diameter, and make the wheel too small to grip. Even worse, a chemical to soften the rubber (such as belt dressing) would destroy the rubber entirely.

  26. #34
    Eye Shooter Gmwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    on neoprene wheels in commercial machines we use soap and water with a shop rag. Knocks the glaze off. Occasionally we would need to scuff the wheel to get the grip back (red 3m scotchbright worked well). but typically just lots of time spend cleaning the rubber to get it going again.

    There are things like roller wash for the 2d print world where the folders rubber rings would dry up and you wipe this stuff on there and it'd revitalize rubber, but will all things ...not knowing the exact material I'd tend to want to stay away from chemicals. I'd go the soap water and scotchbright route if it were me I thinks

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  28. #35
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    2050-12-31 23.59.59-22.jpg2050-12-31 23.59.59-23.jpgshining the pockets, I noticed what appears to be a bird flying straight down...holding a circle with a Japanese character in it. hard to get a clear pic.

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  30. #36
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    2050-12-31 23.59.59-22.jpg2050-12-31 23.59.59-23.jpgshining the pockets, I noticed what appears to be a bird flying straight down...holding a circle with a Japanese character in it. hard to get a clear pic.
    1 While considering this machine for a candidate for a machine for
    http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/show...Reclaimed-wood I can't seem to find the metal pocket that I removed!

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    Blind Shooter Spear's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    Thanks for sharing all these pics, it's awesome to see such a beautiful machine, I can't wait to see the final pics. Just find that pocket !!

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  33. #38
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I think I put it in a storage box on a shelf somewhere. Just haven't looked yet. I also haven't had time to build the cabinet from the "reclaimed wood" post. I was thinking that If I build the cabinet for this machine...then I would get tired of looking at a dirty, damaged machine, in a beautiful cabinet. Hopefully it will "shame" me into restoring it quicker! My biggest fear is soldering the brass ball track "U turns" back together. After that it is all east...just tine consuming1
    My thoughts on the cabinet are: build a basic 4 sided box that the machine fits into (securte it in place), mount a sliding piece of Plexiglass into a groove cut into the wood to protect the backside.
    You will still be able to see the mechanism. The ball lifter will eliminate having to remove the Plexiglass for refilling. I also considered using the reclaimed wood foe a cabinet for my Narita machine, but, this machine is slightly cooler, and the clear back that needs little maintanence was the deciding factor.

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  35. #39
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    I removed one of the "U-turns". No pics, as my laptop is acting stupid. The parts are brass, as opposed to tin. I need solder it back together. It is 3 pieces, and, of course I'll have to clamp 2 parts together, solder together. Then clamp the last part to solder next. Since it is a 2 channel ball path...1 of the parts is 2 piece, soldered together. My biggest concern is overheating the part and the 2 pieces falling apart as I am trying to solder it to the backing plate. I'm pretty sure that my pencil type soldering iron won't produce enough heat to solder the brass. I am even more concerned that my map gas/oxygen torch will produce too much heat...melting the solder that holds the 2 tracks together.
    Has anyone soldered these types of parts together? I'm soldering the parts shown in pic #2 in post #24.
    I wanted to keep patina...but don't expect solder to stick to oxidized brass. So I ended up polishing the 3 parts.
    I'm thinking of using a small plastic clamp with wood shims between the brass and the clamp. I expect a metal clamp would act like a heat sink, and suck the heat away from the part.
    I'll find a way to post pics soon. That way it ill make more once. I'm open to any tips or suggestions so I don't screw it up!
    Last edited by pachiwall; 08-27-2018 at 02:29 AM.

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  37. #40
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1952 with ball lifter

    0827180233a.jpgthis is the 2 piece part that I'm afraid of coming apart.
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