Greetings from Southeast Missourio

[JayTee]

We got our first Pachinko Machine sometime in the late 60's. We lived on Clark Air Force Base in the Philippines and dad brought one home from one of his trips to Japan. May be the '65 that I have pictured below. I've acquired a couple more since then and had probably better stop. <grin>

First, from what I can tell from Nishin History on Pachinko Boy appears to something of a cross-over between the early '65 and late '65 Nishinin Sophia Models.

• Early '65 Features
• Ball Return / Jackpot Panel on the right side
• Ball Return Tray with Japanese Hiroglyphics
• Orange, triangular lights in upper left and lower right corners
• Chrome single jackpots

Late '65 Features

• Jackpot layout
• No 'flappers' above the single Tulip
• Tan ball reserve tray and bell housing

65_Nishijin_Front.jpg65_Nishijin_Back.jpg

Everything works nicely, with the 'Ball Out Light' in the top left and the 'Jackpot Light' working. Where is the micro-switch for the bottom right light and when does it illuminate? Thought it might be when you had overflow jackpots in the little window, however, that does not seem to be it.


My next machine appears to be a Late '75 Nishijin Super Deluxe / Shiroi Kamone

75_Nishijin_SD_Front.jpg75_Nishijin_SD_Back.jpg

This is my work in progress. Machine front and rear is probably in the best shape of the three, however, the frame, door/window frame and sheet metal in the ball return area were heavily rusted. I've blasted them with aluminum oxide, painted them with Rustoleum Rust Stop and trying to paint them with a 'chrome' paint. Not having a lot of luck there; fish-eyes and runs. I've seen mention of powder coating and that might be a consideration. Lights work great with a little power.


And finally, my 1976 Sankyo 'Bull'. Bull or Caribou, front and center. He's 'wearing' an Owl with butterfly wings.

76_Sankyo_Bull_Front.jpg76_Sankyo_Bull_Back.jpg

Back of it is in decent shape. I need to replace/fix the 'ball empty' micro switch and figure out that square, four slot plug for power. Right now, I've got power/tabs plugged into the red and white leads, however, micro switches are not working well. Also, if anyone has suggestions for the automatic ball feed. Every once-in-a-while it quits feeding. I know the ball empty will block it. Otherwise, sometimes you have to jiggle the 'ball drop' lever on the front to get them to feed, or open the front panel and it just starts feeding again.

I'm wanting to make a frame, probably for the '75, to hang next to the wet bar in the basement. Another days project, once I get done with painting the front frames.

So, I've already learned that I can take the mechanism off the frame by opening and lifting. Did not know that. Thanks for that info!

I've found a CHEAP 110V power supply. Find any plug-in charger for electronic devices, that is two lead (the round cables seem to be three lead; third yellow wire probably is feedback to the charger to shut down, or something). You can find them that put out 5V for current devices, or older ones in thrift stores that put out 10V. Choose your bulbs appropriately.

Well, that's a start at an introduction. Thanks for a great site!

John

[CarlW]

I need to replace/fix the 'ball empty' micro switch and figure out that square, four slot plug for power.

John

Micro switch usually has dirt in it. Try taking balls out of hopper and exercising the switch a few hundred times.
If you do need a replacement, try to find LOW force (about 2 grams). The models change all the time, but a discontinued model that was suitable is Cherry D42L-R1XL

Cut that plug off and solder wires on to the red and white wire, use shrink tubes too if possible.
Not likely to find the matching plug.
Occasionally I see the matching plug on other machines...

There is an adjustment for the loading tray "flag". It's on the far left, bottom side of back of your machine attached to a long wire.
Open the front and look at that area first before adjusting the wire thing. Good luck!

[MrGneiss]

WELCOME!!!

[JayTee]

Micro switch usually has dirt in it. Try taking balls out of hopper and exercising the switch a few hundred times.
If you do need a replacement, try to find LOW force (about 2 grams). The models change all the time, but a discontinued model that was suitable is Cherry D42L-R1XL

Cut that plug off and solder wires on to the red and white wire, use shrink tubes too if possible.
Not likely to find the matching plug.
Occasionally I see the matching plug on other machines...

There is an adjustment for the loading tray "flag". It's on the far left, bottom side of back of your machine attached to a long wire.
Open the front and look at that area first before adjusting the wire thing. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply CarlW!

That Cherry D42L-R1XL looks like as close to an original as it gets for the Sankyo. So, it helps to understand how the switch is working. Pulled it out, tested with Volt/Ohm Meter and it's working fine. Oh, duh, the switch is held down/OPEN and released/CLOSED. Repaired the wires I broke with a blade 'quick disconnect and, 'ta dah!'. Still think I need the shrink wrap with this?

Sankyo_Micro.jpg

I now have working Jackpot and Empty lights. Jackpot is a little intermittent; probably need to clean switch contacts or replace bulb socket.

When I got a feed hang, tried wiggling the gate wire and the arms that interact with the launcher and No Joy. The balls seem to be hanging in the 'gate'. Here's a picture of what I found after I dumped balls from the feed and opened the doors.

Sankyo_Feed_Hang.jpg

Since that connector tends to not be available, I'll follow your suggestion and cut the block off. May use a couple more blade/quick disconnect wire ends there too.

Thanks again!

John

[JayTee]

Thanks Mr. Moderator!

It's nice to find a group of Pachinko Fans on-line.

John

[hanabi]

Waving hello and welcome to PachiTalk!!

[JayTee]

Micro switch usually has dirt in it. Try taking balls out of hopper and exercising the switch a few hundred times.
If you do need a replacement, try to find LOW force (about 2 grams). The models change all the time, but a discontinued model that was suitable is Cherry D42L-R1XL

Cut that plug off and solder wires on to the red and white wire, use shrink tubes too if possible.
Not likely to find the matching plug.
Occasionally I see the matching plug on other machines...

There is an adjustment for the loading tray "flag". It's on the far left, bottom side of back of your machine attached to a long wire.
Open the front and look at that area first before adjusting the wire thing. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply CarW. Just tried to reply to this and lost it somehow. Will try again.

That Cherry D42L-R1XL looks to be as close to the original as it's going to get. So, I guess it helps to think about and understand how the switch actually works. Took it out and checked it with my Volt/Ohm Meter and it opens and closes just fine. Closed when you let go the pressure and Open when compressed. Duh! I was trying to make it work like some of the other micro switches with the 'reeds'. Got it back in, replaced the broken wires with blade/quick disconnect connectors and think I'm in good shape there.

Sankyo_Micro.jpg

As far as the power plug, looks like cutting it off will be the plan and replace it with blade/quick disconnect leads for power.

Sankyo Ball Feed . . . I still don't know. Tried manually wiggling the wire for the tray 'flag' and the blue lever that interacts with the shooting lever with a hang, No Joy. Dumped the balls into the lower tray, opened the doors and here is what I found . . .

Sankyo_Feed_Hang.jpg

Now, I'm sure an experienced eye will look and say, "that is just . . .". I'm just not picking up on why it's hanging. I had thought another ball hang I had was ball size. Found one that was a thousandth larger than the other balls and took it out of play.

John

[JayTee]

Thanks Hanabi!

John

[Moparformances]

try cleaning the pivot point.. the weight of one ball should be enough to transfer it down..

[Moparformances]

and me with no manners

Welcome to Pachitalk

[Spyder138]

Welcome to PachiTalk. Thanks for the photos. Looking at other people's machines is second only to buying new machines.

[CarlW]

The low reward tray switch looks fine, nothing else needed there.

Your picture of the front feed "flag"... can you please zoom out a tiny bit? So more is in view.
The flag is wide open in your photo, I don't see a problem.

[JayTee]

and me with no manners

Welcome to Pachitalk

Thanks Moparformances! I'm into MOPARs also. Here's mine:

DCP_1229.jpg

John

[JayTee]

try cleaning the pivot point.. the weight of one ball should be enough to transfer it down..

That does seem to be pivoting fairly well. Just found that it DOES indeed pull straight out. Cleaned pivot pin and added a drop of oil.

The low reward tray switch looks fine, nothing else needed there.

Your picture of the front feed "flag"... can you please zoom out a tiny bit? So more is in view.
The flag is wide open in your photo, I don't see a problem.

I may have found a contributing problem and made a helpful adjustment. I still get a 'momentary' failure to feed that 'self-corrects' with a couple of pulls of the shooting lever. So far, no blockages . . . keeping my fingers crossed.

Here is the original pic . . .

2016-01-29 21.57.32.jpg


And, as requested, zoomed out a tiny bit.

2016-01-31 13.04.44.jpg

And this is where I adjusted. The counterweight was all the way towards pivot end. Dumped all the balls and adjusted it to properly close when empty. Hmmm, that probably did not make a bit of difference in the feed, did it?

2016-01-31 13.05.02.jpg

Thanks for reading and looking!

John

[JayTee]

Welcome to PachiTalk. Thanks for the photos. Looking at other people's machines is second only to buying new machines.

Thanks Spyder138. I'll be happy to post any other pictures anyone wants. Close-ups of details, back works, etc. I know I'm getting a lot out of what little browsing I've done here so far.

John

[CarlW]

And, as requested, zoomed out a tiny bit.

2016-01-31 13.04.44.jpg

And this is where I adjusted. The counterweight was all the way towards pivot end. Dumped all the balls and adjusted it to properly close when empty. Hmmm, that probably did not make a bit of difference in the feed, did it?

2016-01-31 13.05.02.jpg

Thanks for reading and looking!

John

In zoomed out picture, the latch on the right side is open, push down to latch.

Thought your intermittent problem was the flag blocking the loader? Maybe I misunderstood. The counter weight is an adjustment for the low reward tray switch and for the flag.

Your problem is occasionally you get a dud? Flip the handle and nothing happens?
This can usually be fixed by adjusting the wire attached to the back of the shooting handle.

SANKYO Vintage Airplane Back 2.jpg

[Moparformances]

the problem i see in the picture is the only ball on the ramp is held up and not allowed to travel to the shooter.. the single ball should have more then enough weight to finish the travel down and enter the lifter to be shot.. i still say the pivot point needs to be cleaned.. possibly polished more to allow better free movement.. this is one place that balance is required.. machines are only allowed to fire "X" amount of balls in a minute.. this discriminator regulates the speed balls are allowed to be fed..

take your time and clean it inside and out.. no lube / oil should be needed

[Moparformances]

Thanks Moparformances! I'm into MOPARs also. Here's mine:

DCP_1229.jpg

John

old school

more info please

[JayTee]

In zoomed out picture, the latch on the right side is open, push down to latch.

Thought your intermittent problem was the flag blocking the loader? Maybe I misunderstood. The counter weight is an adjustment for the low reward tray switch and for the flag.

Your problem is occasionally you get a dud? Flip the handle and nothing happens?
This can usually be fixed by adjusting the wire attached to the back of the shooting handle.

SANKYO Vintage Airplane Back 2.jpg

the problem i see in the picture is the only ball on the ramp is held up and not allowed to travel to the shooter.. the single ball should have more then enough weight to finish the travel down and enter the lifter to be shot.. i still say the pivot point needs to be cleaned.. possibly polished more to allow better free movement.. this is one place that balance is required.. machines are only allowed to fire "X" amount of balls in a minute.. this discriminator regulates the speed balls are allowed to be fed..

take your time and clean it inside and out.. no lube / oil should be needed

Thanks CarlW and Moparformances. I'll put your suggestions to work. Had missed that latch. Will give the pivot a better cleaning. I'm only getting an occasional loss of feed now, so things are headed in the right direction. It's like a helicopter in there . . . so many moving parts!

John

[JayTee]

old school

more info please

Dad had wanted a P-15 since they came out at the end of the war. Found his '48 in 1957. Had it repainted and it is still in the family. A friend of his from school liked dad's so much that he found this '47. Originally cranberry red; repainted black like dad's. In '74 he called up dad and said he had five cars and four motorcycles and something had to go. Sold it to dad for a song and first right of refusal should dad ever sell it. I've had it since '81. Need to do some work on it so I can get it back on the road. Since dad died, my best reference person is gone and I don't have that knowledge he developed growing up with the cars, working in a service station (SERVICE, not just gas! ) and owning the cars for so long. I try to do most of my own work but sometimes struggle with those things a mechanic of the era would 'just know'.

Gotta get off to work.

Cheers!

John