3D Printed Pachinko Parts

[takethecastle57]

You can buy rubber grommets from eBay or Amazon .

https://www.ebay.com

[Ahab]

I have found rubber grommets at Menards in their electrical section.

[Spear]

I need to get back on here...

I have a few pockets I modeled out on thingiverse, I eventually plan on doing some more, but it's been a while since I touched that project.

I've been working on building a Raspberry PI powered scanner (look up openscan) and I'm certain I could get good enough results right now to scan pachinko playfield pieces...

[SibSr]

Attachment 99904By chance does anybody have a STL of the ball out flipper on a Sankyo around 1976?. Please see the attached image of my broken part “the flange on the bottom what holds the counter weight.

I have a couple machines with the same problem, One I fixed already, the other is still broken, so I am going to start a project to generate a 3D copy in the next couple days.

Todays TinkerCAD project was leaf switch housings. After a couple hours I was able to generate 6 different designs and going to try few more. These 6 are just getting started on the printer to see how they work.

Leafswitchhousings.jpg

[SibSr]

A couple weeks ago I spent some time making replacement electrical port thumbscrews which came out really well. The lower half is a socket with a hole in the bottom. A #4-40 screw from ACE hardware was threaded through the hole, a coupe drops of superglue and the cap is put on. Give it a little shake to spread the glue around, the end result is very close....even has texture on the outside diameter The wide middle part of the head was a dune buggy tire with aggressive tread that was in the TinkerCAD model library, and even reduced to to a small size, the printer was still reproducing the tread pattern which gave me the texture I was looking for. .

ElectricalThumbscrews.jpg Thumbscrew compare.jpg

[SibSr]

Attachment 99904By chance does anybody have a STL of the ball out flipper on a Sankyo around 1976?. Please see the attached image of my broken part “the flange on the bottom what holds the counter weight.

Well, I went ahead and worked on it today. Ill try printing and test fitting later.

screenshot.jpg

[SibSr]

Well, I went ahead and worked on it today. Ill try printing and test fitting later.

screenshot.jpg

OK, I printed it in the same attitude as in the drawing, upside down with just the ball separator wall touching the build plate. This required supports which I let the slicing software add as needed. Printed overnight in about 3 hours using PLA. and came out looking just like it was supposed to. 3Drampprint.jpg

Installed it in my Sankyo machine where it fits perfectly, and operates like it is supposed to. Square tube on bottom touches the low ball microswitch actuator properly.
The hinge pin hole is a tight fit and required the brass pin to be polished instead of dirty to slide in.

3Dwithoutballs.jpg 3Dwithballs.jpg

Here is the file to make your own, or contact me and I'll send you one for shipping charges.Sankyo Low Ball RampV1.zip

Sankyo Low Ball RampV1.zip

[SibSr]

If anybody has a Daichii or other models with the plastic spring adjuster. I had the original on my Daichii New Vanguard break and the 1 spare I had and put on it broke shortly afterwards.
I was going to try and make a metal replacement, but now I'm not.
I spent some time a couple weeks ago on reproducing them. These are made with PETG and are a little ugly on the underneath side due to the supports needed to print the teeth in the middle.


Spring adjusters.jpg and here is one installed is my machine Springadjusterinplace.jpg

Here is a file that prints two at a time

Spring adjusterF2x2.zip

[SibSr]

Nishijin recycler model part for payout system

Recyclerpayoutroof.zip

"Payout tray cover" or "roof" sometimes missing or broken. Has a latch to keep it secured.

payoffcoverF.jpg payoffcoverR.jpg

This part is made from PETG to allow the hinge to pivot properly, and is printed face down and flat. Print super slow; 25-30% until over 1MM in z height to allow flat surfaces to be laid down without stringing.

recyclerpayoffroof.jpg
The front is folded up to meet the side and a coupe drops of superglue hold it together. The latch (and a spare) is printed separately and snapped into the groove on the underside of the top part with another drop of glue to make sure.

payoffroofsidefix.jpg here is one in green PETG compared to an original payoffroofcompare.jpg

Here it is in place on a recycler with some of the other parts I have been working on.

Recycler3DSet.jpg

[takethecastle57]

So do you have these many wonderful parts (the files) on Thingiverse.com ?

https://www.thingiverse.com

[SibSr]

No I haven't done that yet. Is that the thing to do?
When I Googled 3D pachinko parts, this thread came up in the top 5 results. I figured putting them here would be almost as effective.
I plan on getting a vintage rear upper tray on the drawing board soon. I figure there is probably a demand for that, and with my new 3D printer I have a build plate that can hold it..as well as almost every other large plastic part on the machine. Unless they span all the way across the machine. Build plate size comparison

buildplates.jpg


I actually have several more parts that I just haven't posted anywhere yet. I haven't done the background work to prep for a post yet, like edit pics, get the correct version of .stl files compressed, etc

[takethecastle57]

Yeah , Thingiverse has even a pachinko file page . I have downloaded and sliced those files for my Flsun Q5 Delta printer .

[SibSr]

Upper rear tray 25hrs in...at 52% completion. Running at 75% of top speed using black PETG. There is one corner that doesn't look quite right, but it happened early on and I wasn't watching it to see what happened.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

[SibSr]

33hrs in at 85% 3DUppertrayV1.jpg

[SibSr]

Since nobody is posting on this thread and I have been working on lots of stuff, I guess I will start with this weekends printing project.

The Maruhon machine I am working on had not one but two broken parts in the shooter module.

brokenlevers.jpg

The load lever had the "tail" broken off so there was no action when the launcher was operated.

myloadlever.jpg I created my part and beefed up the right angle connection that was the weak point after observing there was plenty pf clearance for the extra plastic.

loadleverinplace.jpg
The pad was cut from the thin foam liner used in the bottom of toolbox drawers and superglued on.

[SibSr]

The tray member GFIRE posted and seen in my previous post did finally finish printing, but my settings were not right and the extensive support structures could not be removed when finished. It ended up being a massive heavy tray that looked terrible on the bottom after trying to carve away all that plastic..
Gfiretray1.jpg Gfiretray2.jpg Gfiretray4.jpg

The gap between support structure and actual model was set in the software at 0 from the factory, so the supports were essentially part of the model.
Adding a .04mm gap has corrected the problem since then. Physically the tray did fit on the machine and the holes lined up but the complexity of the original design sent me to TinkerCad to produce my own during the long print job.

[SibSr]

liftlever.jpgThe lifting lever is a common part that is present on multiple machines, and mine had been repaired.

It appears to be the same part in all the different shooting modules of this general design.

Sankyo shooter1.jpg Okumurayuki okishooter.jpg Maruhon maruhonshooter.jpg

Found in many others I have like Ginza, Mizuho, Maruto, smaller manufacturers that don't create their own design like Nishijin did.

liftlevercompare.jpg
I used one off of a Sankyo to create my part and it fits just fine in the others. (After several versions and tweeks LOL)

weights.jpg weights2.jpg

I removed the weights off my broken part and put them on the new part. I used a pin punch after filing down the peened over part of the soft brass rivet
If your part is completely missing I can reproduce the weights with brass rod and give you the completed unit if you no way to print it yourself.
Here it is right off the printer using PLA with supports
printedliftinglever.jpg

Here is the lifting lever .stl file in a zip archive

Lifter Lever.zip

[SibSr]

Load lever drawing in TinkerCAD
loadleverdrawing.jpg


Both parts for shooter module
shooterleverpair.jpg


Load lever .stl file attached
Printed in PLA with supports

[jasonlujan]

thanks for doing this - been on my to-do list for over a year and yet...

[SibSr]

Here is my all home made version for when there is no part, just an empty brass shaft

I cut 2 wafers off a piece of 1/2" solid brass rod and center drilled them.

mylifter.jpg

Instead of a brass screw and nut to hold the weights on and together, I decided to use a pop rivet which worked good.
The original weighed 13 grams, my copy was 12.

mylifterweights.jpg