How to remove yellowing from plastic parts without the mess of Retr0bright

[cardwwi]

I used to make up some Retr0bright measuring; mixing, heating and wait for a sunny day, it never really worked well. I could see some change but it always seemed to be more work than it was worth. I found the How-To video on YouTube and wanted to see if it would work on pachinko parts.

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I am very pleased with how it came out. I did a step by step on my web site.

http://www.pachinkorestorations.com/Removeyellowing.php

[mxfaiman]

Looks like it worked pretty well.

Seems like the stuff is pretty much just bleach so it makes sense why it would work.

[compirate]

Bleach has Chlorine.

Isn't it almost the same thing as Retr0Bright?

Salon Care 40 ingredients:

WATER ,HYDROGEN PEROXIDE ,CETEARYL ALCOHOL ,CETEARETH-20 ,CETYL ALCOHOL ,STEARIC ACID ,PHOSPHORIC ACID ,TETRASODIUM EDTA ,ETIDRONIC ACID

[emmadog]

Not sure how your process is different than retrobright? Using the liquid version of retrobright uses only 2 ingredients, hydrogen peroxide and oxy clean type detergent.
No heating required plus the parts can't dry out so no Saran Wrap is needed. So it's actually a tad simpler than what you've done here.
I used the gel retrobright mix a couple of times and the sun buts it's a hassle. After that I almost strictly used the liquid setup and always used a UV lamp.

[cardwwi]

Not sure how your process is different than retrobright? Using the liquid version of retrobright uses only 2 ingredients, hydrogen peroxide and oxy clean type detergent.
No heating required plus the parts can't dry out so no Saran Wrap is needed. So it's actually a tad simpler than what you've done here.
I used the gel retrobright mix a couple of times and the sun buts it's a hassle. After that I almost strictly used the liquid setup and always used a UV lamp.

No mixing, no measuring, and no running all over town looking for 6% to 12% hydrogen peroxide. Salon care 40 can be purchased at any beauty supply store and the Saran wrap takes all of 30 sec. to apply. But if your way work best for you don't change, this just has work better than anything I have tried in the pasted and it is simpler. So until something comes along that works better, I think this is what I will be doing yellowing removal.

[emmadog]

i and at least one other took your title to mean that you found a method other than retr0brite and that's what got my attention. however, you're using H202 (salon care 40 IS H2O2 at just over 12%) and a UV source. that is essence, is the retr0brite process and in your case the gel method. by using the cream salon care, you bypassed having to mix the other ingredients in the recipe which are just thickeners with the exception of the oxy clean.
how's this for simple? mix the oxy clean (this stuff isn't even necessary but the process is slower without it) in 1 cup of the liquid not cream salon care 40, drop your parts in and you're done. put in the sun or by a UV lamp and forget about it. other than the simplicity the benefits are no risk of blooming and the parts are continuously bathed by the same concentration of mix.
your method method requires saran wrap and yes, it's easy enough to apply but saran can easily cause blooming (white streaks) where the mix dries out in the wrinkles of the plastic wrap. it is irreversible and happened to me and a bunch of others as well so there's the hassle of having to check on the project periodically. colored plastics are likely more prone to this and if it happens, it's much more obvious. also be advised that other ingredints not specified in either of the original recipes can adversely affect plastics when mixed with the other items. i'm speaking of all the extra ingredients in the cream H202. ABS plastics themselves are recipes and they all vary from batch to batch. what worked well one time may discolor or make brittle another of the same part next time.
that's another reason i stick with the liquid version.
also, on your website it sounds like your poor results were obtained while using the sun and then this time you used a UV lamp which is a significant change in the process for several reasons. the UV lamp is much more efficient and that could easily be why you got the results the first time around and not something inherently wrong with the process itself.

[Rival]

Usually I just spray-paint the stuff white. With a coat of polyurethane gloss it looks pretty badass and won't chip or scratch. However, I still feel Kudos are warranted for a good, easy to follow process that will give good results if you don't want to go the spray-paint route.