New Member, First Machine

[unhappyelf]

Well we need to get rid of them somehow.

Here is the thread.
http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...addiction.html

Oh man, I think Im in trouble

[ackleplem]

Sometimes you look for pachinkos, sometimes the pachinkos will find you.

[unhappyelf]

Ok, I have the machine almost all the way apart. I am having issues with removing the play-field though. I have been using the guide provided in the sticky but it doesn't specifically spell out where you pry the darn thing out. Is the play-field and the back panel, that all of the components are mounted on, the same piece of wood? I think mine is, but its nailed like 15 times into the frame making it difficult to even use a pry bar. Sorry for not having pictures, I will try and get some tonight.

[MrAl]

Mr. Unhappyelf

You need to separate the backboard from all the frame. You want to keep the wood that is inbetween the door and the backboard attached to the door.

I just removed a playfield from a machine yesterday. I typically set the door on 4x4s wrap a towel around another 4x4 and WHAM wack the board in a corner (not to hard) this will separate just a corner enough to get pry bars inbetween. The little wood separators I can usually get to stay connected to the door and once in a great while crack but can be replaced or simply glued.

4x4.jpg
4X4 laid out


door.jpg
door laid out with just the veery edges on the 4X4s note I already remove the backboard yesterday but you get the idea



smasher.jpg
THE SMASHER 4x4 i would wrap in a towel and wack the corner area until there is just enough separation to get in your crow bars


remain.jpg
Door frame afterwards with little wood separators still attached

PM

[unhappyelf]

Thanks Mr.Al! I'll Macgyver something as I don't have any wood around.

[Phulkrum]

Nice..

and here I've been taking the time to drill the heads off of the nails to separate then pull all but two nails shafts (one top one bottom center) from the door frame. (they make great alignment pins for re assembly)

[mxfaiman]

Nice..

and here I've been taking the time to drill the heads off of the nails to separate then pull all but two nails shafts (one top one bottom center) from the door frame. (they make great alignment pins for re assembly)

Man that is time consuming.

Mr. Al has the same basic idea I use. Except I just use some small wood scraps instead of a 4X4. Don't worry if the side strips come off with the background you can put them back on most the time.

[unhappyelf]

Just picked it up today. In really good shape and has working lights. Just thought I would share.

[Moparformances]

looks to be a very nice machine

[unhappyelf]

Does anyone know what year it is?

[Moparformances]

Does anyone know what year it is?

open the front glass and post a nice clear picture of the sticker in the lower right corner.. the expiration date is in that sticker

[mxfaiman]

Should be a 76.

[Rival]

Experience has taught me the process for removing frames which was unavailable when i initially wrote the ebook. Please allow me to describe the process i use now.

I use a thin-bladed wood chisel and hammer to begin the separation process. I pound the chisel between the playfield and the spacers, always keeping care that the chisel is right next to a nail. Wiggle the chisel to pull them apart slightly, and work your way in this fashion all of the way around the playfield. Once you have around 1/8 inch of space between the playfield and the spacers, I break out the crowbar. Apply pressure to expand the joint, and progress once again around the entire perimeter. Once you have around 1/2 inch space, repeat. The playfield should eventually fall from the front frame and spacers. Be patient and do not force anything, and it should come apart with minimal effort. I no longer damage spacers like I used to, and then entire process is usually completed in less than 5 minutes. This takes a little practice, but once you have the hang of it, it is really pretty simple.

Hope that helps!

-

[Phulkrum]

Thanks for all of the info, now all I have to do is figure out how to make i quieter so I don't drive my fiance crazy.

Plex on the inner and standard glass on the outer pane helps a lot.. also you can add some acoustic foam to the inside of the bell (only need some big enough to sit inside the bell housing to damp)

http://www.parts-express.com/acousti...m_campaign=pla


this will cut the noise to something tolerable

[Diana8]

Hey All!!! New here and I don't have a Pachinko yet, but I am going this evening to look at 2 of them... the pics posted online could be betterpachinko1.jpgpachinko2.jpg but we will see when I get there. The seller claims they both work perfectly, but again, we will see. If anyone sees this and can tell me ANYTHING about them, please do - it would be nice to have some info before I go tonight. He says he built the cabinets they are in himself.

[mxfaiman]

Hey All!!! New here and I don't have a Pachinko yet,

to Pachitalk.

Feel free to start your own thread when you get a chance.

Tips on looking at a machine is to look for anything that may be missing or broken as you can't get replacement parts. Also I know in Canada balls are expensive to get so the more it comes with the better.

First machine is a 1972 Daiichi and the second is a 1973 Nishijin.

Here are some pictures of what the back should look like on each.

Daiichi might be either of these depending.
72 - B.jpg74 - B.jpg

Nishijin
g2.jpg

If you have any other questions feel free to ask us. Good luck and once again welcome to PT.

-Max

[Moparformances]

Hey All!!! New here and I don't have a Pachinko yet, but I am going this evening to look at 2 of them... the pics posted online could be betterpachinko1.jpgpachinko2.jpg but we will see when I get there. The seller claims they both work perfectly, but again, we will see. If anyone sees this and can tell me ANYTHING about them, please do - it would be nice to have some info before I go tonight. He says he built the cabinets they are in himself.

make sure ya get balls with them...

and of course

Welcome to Pachitalk

[PachiNC]

Just wanted to share a quick tip on keeping your machine quite. I'm an apartment dweller so I feel the pain. I find a lot of noise is made in older Nishijins by the balls entering their trays. I went to the local craft store and purchased a 9"X12" sheet of thin craft foam for about 60 cents. I used it to line the lost ball tray in back (has a little bounce so tilt the tray back toward the front of the machine). I also cut pieces to fit the front play and overflow trays. A piece in the supply tray will also cut down on noise while re-filling the machine. Enjoy your new pachi!

[mxfaiman]

Just wanted to share a quick tip on keeping your machine quite.

to Pachitalk!

(well your official welcome. )

What your saying makes sense. I'm just not one who is fond of the idea of lining things. As usually the balls won't roll as well. I've had numerous machines where people had glued in green felt to try to make it quite. It probably did that but, it also got really, really dirty and didn't let the balls roll correctly. And it was a big mess and a pain to get rid of.

But your idea seems like it works for a temporary fix. Just word of advice, don't glue it down. (double sided tape might work okay but it'd be best if you didn't use anything.)

[PachiNC]

Thanks. Yeah I don't have anything but gravity and pachinko balls holding the foam in place. I find the friction of the foam even keeps it in place in the lost ball tray even when I turn it on end to refill the supply tray. Also interesting enough, the friction of the foam in the play tray actually help relieve the ball pressure that can make draining it into to overflow tray difficult.