Daiichi Flicker

[CarlW]

This vintage pachinko game has the "Flicker" feature.

Flicker Original Housing 1.jpg Flicker Original Housing 2.jpg Flicker Original Electronics Front.jpg Flicker Original Electronics Back.jpg

Original Game Function:
There are two “Flicker” pass through tulips that each have two red lights. The tulips
alternate blinking “LIT” in approximately 12 second intervals. If a pachinko ball passes
through the “LIT” tulip; the “Flicker” center gate opens via a solenoid. The original game
was 24V DC and the original light bulbs were “wheat” bulbs.

Reason for Modification:
On my machine, the original game electronics would work for about 2 minutes and then
would stop working until powered off and on again.

Means and Methods of Modifications:
One of the goals was to fit the new electronics into the original “OEM” plastic box and to
use the OEM “Flicker” tulips and to use the OEM connectors.

The processor used is the ADAFRUIT Trinket Pro 5V. The circuitry and code was first
developed and tested with an Arduino Uno and a breadboard. Then the final project was
transferred to the ADAFRUIT Perma-Proto Half-sized Breadboard PCB.

The wheat bulbs were replaced with red, 5mm, LEDs. The LEDs were wrapped in a length
of electrical tape to fit snugly in the OEM holder. Each “Flicker” tulip has two LEDs, wired
in parallel, through a 75 ohm resistor. The new LED connectors are polarized and latching.

Another goal was to allow simple timer adjustment of the interval between tulip cycles; this
was accomplished by using a 1K potentiometer that adjusts the timing in one second
increments from 1 second to 24 seconds.

Another goal was a hidden “cheat” button; this is a Normally Closed, momentary contact,
pushbutton.

Because the OEM solenoid was 24V DC, a relay daughter board is used to power on and off
the solenoid. The solenoid is powered for 350 milliseconds. This timing is adjustable via
code. The Perma-Proto relay connector is polarized and latching, the daughter board
connector is color coded.

Because of the 24V DC requirement; the OEM game bulbs were changed to 12V and the
processor is powered via an adjustable 1.5-37V DC/DC Buck Converter with LED Volt
Meter. The Buck Converter is set at 12V DC and 2.1/5.5 mm quick connectors were used.

Soldering Order & Suggestions:
1. Resistors on board top 2. Stack processor on spacer to allow for wires below board
3. Processor and relay connector
4. Insert wires in bottom connectors, prior to soldering, if possible
5. Insert power wires through top of board and solder to bottom, use wires with pin ends