Tom & Jerry Won't Turn On

[pds319]

Hey guys! My sister bought this Tom & Jerry machine for me, and I just picked it up from her. The guy who sold it said it powered on when he originally bought it but he didn't get the transformer with it and couldn't get it to work afterwards. Something tells me it was plugged into the wall directly. The fuses were blown so I replaced them. I took the transformer from my Pac World machine and hooked it up. Fuses blew immediately after turning it on. I replaced them and they did not blow when powering up again, but nothing turned on.

TJ01.jpgTJ02.jpg

First, how do I open the front glass door because I really just want to look at the playfield and can't find a lever for it at all. Second, what's the best way to get to the power board? I can't figure out what to take off to get to it. It looks like something is damaged and I'd like to not break anything trying to get to it.
TJ03.jpg

Also, there's a green wire on a board on the right side. The wire seems to have lifted off the board. I'm wondering what it is and if it's repairable?
TJ04.jpg

Thanks for any help!

[pachiwall]

Sorry that I can't help. I have a modern that I "temporarilary" gave up on, because I am more 'mechanically" inclined, and love "vintage" pachinko's...because I can look at them and SEE how they work. AND why they DON"T. I will eventually get back to figuring out my modern...but it is not my strong point! Hopefully someone will be able to help you soon! Not the 1st time I have heard of this problem. Some don't survive...but most do!

[Drunkenclam]

Welcome Aboard

Sorry that it is down to someone elses failure that brought you here. Unforturatly it seems to be a common thread that someone hasn't used a transformer and damaged/destroyed a machine,
The good news is most of the time most of it can be salvaged. So lets try and help

Although I don't own a T&G or that frame, we just go through the basics.

To open up the front, you need a door key and turn it to the left. If you don't have a key, then looking at the the machine from the rear, you might be able to see the levers that hold the door in place and lift them up or down to open the front, Some machines this is easy. Some are impossible,

I suspect this machine will require a lot more power than your pac man, I suggest a 110 -24 VAC transformer rated at 250va or 10A


The green wire is a ground, It connects to sections of the machine where balls run to reduce the risk of static build up, If you have a earth/ground, Connect it. If you don't, tuck it nicely out of the way

You probably have the units main power supply with the fuses in it, Although diagnoses isn't my thing. Look for a blown compnent with vr written on the board next to it.
Or do a seach for other threads with the same theme.

[pds319]

Thanks guys for your replies. I really appreciate the help. I figure I'm either very close to getting this thing working, or I have a very heavy paperweight.

To open up the front, you need a door key and turn it to the left. If you don't have a key, then looking at the the machine from the rear, you might be able to see the levers that hold the door in place and lift them up or down to open the front, Some machines this is easy. Some are impossible

I can't find any levers for the front glass nor do I have a key. I might be able to get the lock off and try Arby's hack. Fingers crossed.

I suspect this machine will require a lot more power than your pac man, I suggest a 110 -24 VAC transformer rated at 250va or 10A

I was thinking maybe there wasn't enough power so I'll get a new transformer. Once again, fingers crossed.

Look for a blown compnent with vr written on the board next to it. Or do a seach for other threads with the same theme.

If I can figure out how the hell to get to the board, I'll definitely do that.

[daverob]

I'm not familiar with this machine/frame, but I've just taken a look at the Daiichi X-Gear frame manual and some of the parts look similar to your photos.

To remove the power supply board, you need to remove the circuit boards that are on top of it. Take some good photos of the boards so you can refer to them when re-connecting the cables. The manual's pictures are not very clear (and I don't have the time needed to translate the text), but it looks like there are plastic catches on the outside edge of each of the boxes holding the circuit boards, they should be rotated or pushed towards the bottom of the machine, and then the circuit boards will slide towards the outside edge and can be removed (after the wires have been disconnected!).

Once you have removed the top layer circuit boards, the power supply board should be a similar procedure to remove. You'll need to figure out how to remove the plastic case from the power supply board, and then take some good close up photos of both sides of the board and post them here. From these photos we should be able to identify the protection diode that usually fails when people attempt to power up these machines without a transformer. With a bit of luck this will be the only part that needs replacing (along with another fuse!), but sometimes the damage is worse and you'll need to source a replacement power supply board.

[Wayne-Ooo]

I can't help much with the electronics, but can show you how to open the door without a key.

There are 2 bars in the door mechanism. I've labeled them bar #1 and bar #2, in my pictures. Apply firm upward pressure to bar #1 and the front door will open.

If you want to remove the cell, now that the front door is open. Unplug the connection in the upper left of the cell. In the lower left of the cell is a locking lever, rotate it down. On the right side of the cell are 2 locking clips, unclip them. The cell will now rotate out of the frame, by pulling firmly on the right side, (clip side), of the cell. You need to pull firmly to disconnect 2 connections that are mounted on the back of the cell. You may think it won't pull out, but just pull firmly and it will rotate out, no problem.

For some reason the site won't let me upload pictures, so here's a picture slideshow.

[pds319]

Update here. Thanks daverob and Wayne-Ooo for the help. I got the front door open and got so excited just looking at the board. Who knew glass could be such a happiness killer?

I managed to get to the power board and here's some pictures. It looks like scorched earth around the fuses and the horseshoe-shaped deal has a rip in it.
DSC_0067.jpgDSC_0066.jpgDSC_0065.jpgDSC_0063.jpgDSC_0064.jpg

I took the lock out and it seems to be the round-barreled Omron lock so I guess I'm stuck there. The lock also seems to be missing any sort of latch to actually operate the door. If I were to replace the lock itself, is it possible to find a replacement latch?
Lock.jpg

[daverob]

That board looks well toasted, so I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope for it. There's a chance the damage hasn't made it past the protection components, but the damage to the main filter choke (L1, the 'horseshoe-shaped deal'!) would suggest otherwise.

The rip in the coating on the choke L1 would suggest either physical or thermal damage. So either someone's had it apart before, or it got rather hot when it was over-volted. The picture of the bottom of the board isn't quite clear enough, but it looks like the two lower solder joints are grey and crystalline rather than silver and shiny which also suggests that it's got a bit hotter than it's supposed to.

So that's the pessimistic side of things covered. Now onto the slightly more optimistic, 'nothing to lose, so might as well give it a go'.

If you're unsure of any part of this testing, then feel free to ask questions. It was written assuming a certain level of knowledge of electronic circuits, but I'd be happy to clarify any point even down to pictures with 'put the red wire here' labels. There are plenty of online guides to soldering and using a multimeter to give you the basics, but sometimes specific instructions are more helpful.


The protection diodes are the three black ones next to the choke L1, marked ZNR1, ZNR2 and ZNR3. ZNR1 will be the one that's almost definitely been fried, but looking at the state of the board, I'd also suspect the other two as well.

If faced with this board, I'd de-solder all three protection diodes from the circuit board along with the choke L1, and test them with a multimeter. Use the diode test range for the diodes. If they measure short circuit, then they're blown.

The choke should should be tested on the continuity range of the multimeter. You should be able to make out that there are two separate coils of wire on it, so looking at it from the horseshoe shaped side one coil going from the front pin to the back pin on the left side, and same again on the right hand side. The coils should measure a short circuit from the front to back pins on each side, but there must be be no reading between the two coils, so measuring either of the left pins to either of the right pins should read open-circuit.

If the choke measures good, re-solder it in place on the circuit board. If bad, then leave it off the board and temporarily add a wire link from left-front to left-back pads and another link from right-front to right-back. Leave the protection diodes off the board, and put in a couple of new fuses. If you're confident that your 24 volt transformer is good, then you can reassemble and test the machine like this to see if it powers up or if there's any other damage, but be aware that the machine has no surge or over-voltage protection in this state and may also breach electromagnetic interference regulations if the choke is removed, so just a quick test before you source some replacement components.

If it works, then get back to us with any markings on the failed components (and/or better pictures of them) and we'll help identify and find replacements or suitable equivalents. If the fuses still blow, then there's a couple more tests to try before you write off the entire power supply board.

[pds319]

Hey guys. Thanks for the guide Daverob! I'm pretty electronic illiterate but can work with a soldering iron.

So I've desoldered the protection diodes from the board. I tried testing them with the multimeter using the diode setting but nothing happened. It didn't read anything. Guessing that's bad? I pulled off the choke as well and used the continuity tester. The multimeter made a tone for both sides and seemed to be fine. Guessing that's good?

If the choke is good, I'll resolder and test it out tonight when I get home. Here's a picture of the text on the protection diodes.
IMG_1329.jpg

[daverob]

Can you check the writing on the protection diode that was in position ZNR1. I suspect that one should have a different part number than than the one pictured (which is a 200v part). I'd expect it to be either D470 (47v) or D560 (56v), as they're in the voltage range usually found in pachinko machines. Try testing it on the continuity test range as well, if it buzzes it's bad.

The choke sounds ok if you got a buzz for both sides (front to back) and no buzz when you're testing from side to side.

[pds319]

The ZNR1 looks like D470, but I can't really make it out. It's very faint and I could barely read anything on it without a magnifying glass and good lighting. I tried them all for continuity and none of them buzzed.

I think I fried my transformer at some point. I plugged everything up and nothing turned on. I moved the transformer back to the Pac-World machine and that didn't turn on either. Tried it in a different outlet as well and got nothing. I have a new one coming in on Friday so I think I'll have to wait till then.

[pds319]

So I got the transformer in and tested it out on Pac-World and it worked fine. Tried hooking it up to Tom & Jerry and fuse 2 blew. Replaced the fuse and tried it again, fuse 1 went. Stuck again.

[daverob]

What's the rating of your transformer? To save it the stress of having to provide enough current to blow a 15A fuse, it might be worth getting some smaller value fuses for testing (around 5A) and disconnect all of the output connectors from the PSU board when you power it up (obviously leave the cable going to the transformer connected!).

As I said before, I wouldn't hold much hope for this PSU board, If it still blows fuses with the protection diodes removed, then the power surge has definitely got past them and has probably blown a lot more components on the board. It might be worth trying to source a complete replacement PSU board. But if you want to keep going, the next step is to check the bridge rectifier, which is the four legged rectangular block on the heatsink behind the choke and the largest of the capacitors.

You need to measure it using the diode test range of your meter and it needs to be removed from the PCB before testing. You'll probably have to remove the 12000uF capacitor in front of it to unscrew it from the heatsink and unsolder it from the board.

There are four pins, two marked with a wavy line (for the AC inputs), and a plus and minus (for the DC outputs). With the black wire on the lead marked '+' check the reading with the red lead on each of the AC pins. The meter should read around .4 to .8 (the exact reading isn't critical) if it reads zero or open-circuit, then the internal diode has failed. Then do the same with the red wire on the '-' terminal and the black lead on the AC pins. For completeness you can check that the diodes don't conduct in the opposite direction and repeat the tests but with the red wire on the '+' / black on the '-' this time, all four readings should be open circuit.

There's another three legged component on the same heatsink as the bridge rectifier. I can't really tell from the photos what it's for, but I'm guessing it's another rectifier diode assembly. It should probably be removed and tested as well. As a guess I'd test it the same as the bridge rectifier, the two outside pins being the AC inputs, and the middle pin the '+' pin. A photo of the writing on the front could help identify it and suggest a suitable method of testing it.

If the rectifiers measure bad, then it's probably worth trying to source some replacements. There's a chance that they are the only components that have been damaged, but it's still quite likely that the surge has gone further and damaged more components on the board.

Before looking for replacements (or if the rectifiers measure OK), then it might be worth powering up the board with them removed (and nothing but the transformer cable connected to the PSU board), if the fuses still blow, then you've probably still got a problem with the choke / protection diodes or something else on the input side.

If the fuses don't blow with the rectifiers removed, and the rectifiers are good, then you're getting into testing the switch mode regulator chips that are mounted on the other heatsink. To do this, you'll need more than just a soldering iron and a multimeter, and while I'd probably be able to figure it out if I had it on my test bench, I'm not confident I'd be able to describe the steps necessary via email or forum posts. So you'll have to see if you can find a replacement PSU board.

[Drunkenclam]

No PSU on YJA, I've been looking the past week
Although if you have a Japanese contact (like Juno) It might be worth asking these guys

http://www.waveride.jp/item/P-pachinko-019/

[pds319]

Honestly Daverob, you are amazing. I really appreciate everything you've posted. It's been very educational and gave me another reason to use the soldering iron. With that being said, I'm on the hunt for a new board. I have a lot of work coming up and just won't have the chance to tear down everything. Thanks for the help though. Maybe if I get the chance, I'll fiddle around with it.

Thanks Drunkenclam for keeping an eye out. I've been checking YJA everyday too, though Japanese isn't my forte since I know none of it. Tried Google translating the page with no luck. I've purchased a few things with fromJapan so maybe I can check with them or go through Juno.

Crazy enough, I just may import another machine. I really just want to play Tom & Jerry.

[Drunkenclam]

PSU can be found HERE

List of games that are in the same frame are from 2009 to 2010

CR天才バカボン41才の春だから

石川さゆりあなたのために歌います

もっと！レレレにおまかせ！

CR忍者ハットリくん～からくり屋敷に来たでござる！の巻～

CR哲也～雀聖と呼ばれた男～

ＣＲ　ＥＮＴＥＲ　ＴＨＥ　ＭＡＴＲＩＸ

CR氷川きよし～きよしの前に座りましょう～

CR SUPERMAN RETURNS

CR中森明菜　歌姫伝説～恋も二度目なら～

CRトムとジェリー

CRゴリ神～GORI☆GOD～


If you can find a desktop box of one of these it should have a psu with it. Becareful searching though as some of these have been superseeded with a newer model.
Of course if you can get a Matrix , You get the best of both worlds.

[pds319]

Thanks Drunkenclam. Looks like I'm starting the hunt.

[pds319]

Hey guys. Well, I got my hands on a Superman Returns machine. Pretty fun, though playing it was short lived with Tom and Jerry waiting in the wings. After swapping cells I started up the game with no problems. But, I've run into an intermittent issue during spins. The screen seems to stutter and split in half (black and pink) during a spin that involves any sort of extra animation with the spin. In fact, it seems to be the same issue Harleyguy had (Original post). It might even be the same cell since I purchased it from a guy in the same neck of the woods. I posted a video of it (Link). It also happens during specific Reach animations--not during "Mouse in Manhattan," but during "Mice Follies" (the second Reach animation in the video). The animatronics aren't moving because the front door is open, but this all still happens with it closed.


I've swapped transformers (5A to 10A) and checked all loose connections in the back. Everything seems to be connected correctly. Any ideas what it could be? Can the game computer be reset? I'm pretty much talking out my butt here, but I'm hoping there's something that fix it.