Daiichi playfield laminate

[MrAl]

I am in the process of restoring a Daiiachi pachinko. I have discovered the playfield is a laminate/formica type material and not a typical paper type like the nishijins. I am concerned with removing the nails and chipping it. One good point is the years of stains were not able to penatrate into the playfield and can be cleaned with a wipe. Is there any recommended method for removing the nails? Is this typical of the Daiichi brand?

laminate.jpg

Thank you to everyone that helps us newbies out. You have made my new hobby enjoyable.

One more question. If I do want to replace the play field (if i chip it bad). Is there a good method for removing the play field so I can scan it and also use the original play field as my nail template?

[CarlW]

Is there any recommended method for removing the nails? Is this typical of the Daiichi brand?

One more question. If I do want to replace the play field (if i chip it bad). Is there a good method for removing the play field so I can scan it and also use the original play field as my nail template?

Member Rival sells an eBook that would apply to your machine although all the pictures are Nishijin. The book has tips on removing nails and playfields. Amazon.com: Pachinko Machine Restoration eBook: James King: Kindle Store

If you can clean the play field without removing it or the nails, it is preferred - in my opinion.

Some Sankyos and the Vangurd Daiichi models had the laminate typically. They clean up well without removing the nails.

My opinion is removing the nails will chip the play field and you won't be happy with it.

[DaveCapps]

If you're really wanting to remove the nails you could try to unscrew them. These are typical pachinko nails with a right-hand twist to the bottom 12mm or so. But I think you should clean and polish them without removing them.

[DaveCapps]

To remove the laminate try a warm iron to soften the cement then lift with a putty knife. You need to do this slowly keeping the iron just ahead of the knife as you peel. Also, if you can raise a corner squirt some lacquer thinner between the plam and the substrate. This will make the glue soft allowing you to gradually peel the surface. Either way requires a considerable amount of time to clean up the boogers (technical term) and cowboys (ibid) left behind. Scraping and wiping with lacquer thinner will get virtually all of it but you will be left with some tough cleanup to smooth out the surface.

One last thing: keep in mind that the contact cements of that era may have contained asbestos. If it is black it is almost guaranteed. Other colors maybe or maybe not. Just take the proper precautions.

[mxfaiman]

Removing the nails WILL chip the playfield. I had to learn the hard way. Let me tell you it is a pain in the a$$ to color match the pieces that chip out. Just take a shoelace and wrap it around the nails to polish them. For the playfield we found that plastic polish works good at getting off the dirt (just a light polish with little abrasive is needed.)

[Rival]

I have successfully removed all of the nails from a Daiichi with the laminate, but you must be very patient and gentle. Chipping is certainly possible, but did not occur when I did it.

[cardwwi]

I had this made from a wine bottle opener and it pulls nails with no damage to the nail head or playing field. It's a little slow but worth the time.

Nail puller.jpg

[MrAl]

Excellent. I will try to build one.

[mxfaiman]

My jumping jack nail puller is what chipped out my cell. It is quite tricky to remove nails from formica. Your best bet is to just leave them unless you want to replace the cell.

Here are some pics of my first nail puller. Since then one leg has fallen off (actually now more useful than ever.) Also I have built a second one that is even better, which I don't have any pictures of.

001.jpg004.jpg007.jpg

[Super Dave Osbourne]

cardwwi, would it be possible to detail how this was manufactured and by whom? This way folks can see clearly the way it was made, and also decide on time and cost if they would like to pursue it DIY, or have it made by the folks that made yours, or even buy one if you made 10 of them

[Super Dave Osbourne]

mxfaiman, same questions as posed to wwi, would you elaborate on puller being built, how it fares to others and what the cost, time and involvement was to make it? Others like myself may enjoy doing this DIY, helping us decide if the time and effort is worth it. Have you considered making/selling a puller like this to others?

[cardwwi]

First don't go cheap. This one I purchased for $17 at Walmart it was there mid price one. Then I cut an opening in the ring at the base - leaving 1/4" on each side to the supports with a Dremel. Using the Dremel, I then cut the cork screw off at the bottom of the flat part of the cork puller; this left about 1/2" of flat steel at the bottom of the cork puller. I took it to work and down the hall from my shop is the machine shop; I had one of the welders weld me a piece of 1/2" angle steel 3/4" long on to the flat steel part of the cork puller. I cut a slot in the bottom of the angle steel wide enough to fit around the nail but not the nail head. I then epoxied the bottle guard back in the ring at the base. I have been using it for over three years now, I was thinking of making more but it has yet to fail and the cost of making ten would be more then I would like to invest in this project now. I just don't think they would sell at a price that would cover the cost of making them.

[mxfaiman]

First don't go cheap. This one I purchased for $17 at Walmart it was there mid price one.

That is where I went wrong with my first one. I bought the cheap $3 one from target. (don't know if they still have it.) It held up for a good amount of time (probably about 4 or 5 machines) before one leg just completely broke off. I remade one with like a $12 corkscrew and so far it has held up much better.

On the cheap one it had a rivet holding the screw in so I just drilled it out. Then took a piece of like 3/8" thick steel (or whatever the slot width was.) bent one end at a 90 and cut a small V in it. Then tapered the other end to fit in the slot. Then I think we just put it in with some JB weld or we did actually weld it. (honestly that was so long ago I forgot.) Oh and I cut out a portion of the ring that went around the base. I made the mistake and cut both sides so I could reach around things but it weakened the legs which is what broke one. So as you see we just broke both off and epoxied some wood on (so it wouldn't mar the playfield). But then pulling nails at an angle broke the leg at the top.

Honestly no I wouldn't really want to make some to sell. They are kinda time consuming but worth it if you are doing multiple machines.

[Super Dave Osbourne]

Thank you both for your input. I'm going to make one, just thought maybe by chance someone either had made multiples, or was considering it. Seems like a good 1-2 hour project.