Newbe need some help

[Markbett]

Not even sure where to post this.

I am the proud owner of a vintage Sankyo "Jet" not sure how to determine the age. I paid $25 from a flea market. It works, kind of. Some springs are rusted to the point of no return and the wiring for the lights is in need of some attention.

Question:

Does anyone have, or can tell me what is missing on this? Is there a repair manual for the Sankyo machines? Where do I get the small springs, or is Lowe's just as good as any? What should I be checking?

Thanks

Mark

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[pachiwall]

Looks nearly complete to me! All I notice missing is the upper track cover, just after the U-turn below the hopper, and before the balls enter the jackpot. The weight of the balls pushing downhill will cause the balls to pop up and stack on top of one another. Makeshift covers can be easily made. A couple of members have made reproductions that appear to be EXACT copies of the originals! Not many springs involved. One on the flipper to launch the balls. That one is adjustable for shooting strength. One on the missing cover to latch it Then a couple on the assorted latches to return them to the latched position. These are usually not missing. The only manual I know of for repairs is and the collective knowledge among us! Do you have at least 500 pachinko balls? You can function test with WAY less, about 100, but will need at least 500 to play without constantly refilling the top hopper. There is a low ball cut off device that will block balls from reaching the shooter and turn on a STOP light.
Speaking of electrical wiring...yours still has wiring!Sankyo machines usually seem to have all the wiring stripped off, I have heard BEFORE imported. I don't know why. My Sankyo had all the wiring cut up when I got it. I understand this is common...I don't understand WHY? I am confused to what the electrical box to the right of the jackpot on the rear. The front looks like it has a door that opens...possibly electric solenoid activated. I don't see any wiring going to the area of the door, it could be located farther away and activated by a linkage. The wire that goes to the bottom could be it...or it could be to shut off balls to the shooter when top hopper is low. This shut off is typically mechanical, but I have heard of electrical. I have about 25 vintage machines, and none of them have an electric solenoid low ball shut off...all mechanical. If yours is electric, this is not a bad thing...just different. I have heard that they have usually disabled by wedging stuff in the linkage to keep it open, or removing parts to make it work. I have a vintage that someone removed mechanical linkages in order to make it work...when not enough balls are in there. This is usually because they don't know what is going on, and just want it to work! I hate it when that happens! Open the glass and look for a push down latch at the top left corner of the door that the shooter tray is attached to, it will swing open to the right. Take pics, someone will recognize if it has an electric shutoff.
Overall it looks like a nice machine, looks pretty clean as well! But there is always crud somewhere!
And before I forget...to PACHITALK!

[pachiwall]

This is the cover I was talking about. Pachinko Restorations - Sankyo Lower Track Cover - LTC05

[Rival]

Interesting machine, pretty sure it is 1974. Those electronics have me a bit confused as well. I have had several similar Sankyos with the electronics intact but they never had that additional stuff. Not sure what is going on there. But pachiwall is correct, most of the time Sankyos have the lights, wires, and microswitches removed. They probably stripped them and resold them to India...LOL!

I have seen machines with magnetic lockouts that can disable the machine remotely. Never understood the purpose.

[Moparformances]

nice machine.. please feel free to post a few close up pics of problem areas ya might have..

please post a closer picture of the poer supply black box thingy..

and of course

Welcome to Pachitalk

[pachiwall]

A closer pic of the grey square under the center feature, would be great! I cant really tell...but it looks like a door, hinged on the bottom. If so, would be interesting to learn how it works.

[pachiwall]

This is the cover I was talking about. Pachinko Restorations - Sankyo Lower Track Cover - LTC05

I noticed there are 2 Sankyo track covers...early, and late models. If you decide to get one, ask how to tell which one you need.

[MrGneiss]

WELCOME!!!

[CarlW]

Think I see the lower ramp feed cover in the picture and don't think this machine needs one?

The electric parts are interesting. I see wires going down to the lower dust cover and what looks like an additional jackpot switch?

More close up pictures would be helpful.

[Markbett]

Thanks everyone. I'll get some addditional pics up there. I was trying to search similar machines but the wiring on mine, as all of you pointed out, is a lot different, so I'm not even sure where to supply power, afraid I'll fry it. I'll try to remove the green covers and see what's under there. And first order of business is to get the balls on order. Stay tuned...

THanks again

[CarlW]

Here is a quick test, no need to worry about frying anything. Use a 9V battery - attach positive to machine's white wire and negative to machine's red wire. You can push the battery wires into the existing plug. See if anything lights up.

Nothing happens? The fuse holder is suspect on that style machine. You can also unscrew the light bulbs and test them with your battery. Polarity doesn't matter with he bulbs. I can't see wires to the low reward bulb (might still be there) but do see wires to the jackpot bulb near the center.

Here is a link to a manual.

http://pachinkoboy.com/images/manual...%281976%29.pdf

[mxfaiman]

First off to Pachitalk

That is a very unique machine you found there. It has extra electronics on the back. These extra electronics are to open what is called a "fever gate" on the front. This is one of the few vintage machines that I have seen with this feature. It is the first Sankyo I have seen with it. I have seen these a few times on Daiichi machines.

Here is a thread on one of those Daiichi machines. What are these extra wires??? - 1976 Daiichi New Vanguard

Can you do me a favor and take some closeup pics of the boxes and where the wires lead to.

Thanks. And if you have any other questions feel free to ask.

-Max

[Markbett]

photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG photo 3.JPG photo 4.JPG
Looks like the black transformer powers a solenoid (my finger is on the plunger) When pushed up, the metallic face on the front opens. I have 2 green wires on the transformer, that I assume is where I'll attach a battery?

More to come…

[Moparformances]

just a guess since i cant see the whole workings...

110 power to the green wires and 10 volts (or as close to 10 as you can get) for the lights...

[Markbett]

I hooked up a 9 volt to the green wires, and nothing. Also hooked up the 9 volt to the white, red and black in various combinations with the same results. Fuse is fine. Next I'll check the lights themselves.

I would love to know what the words are on the transformer. In the US, transformers list the input and outputs voltages, I don't know what the AC 24V is. To me, that's the output. The green wires look a little on the light side for 110V. Maybe there should be a step down transformer, 120V to 24V then hook up the green wires to the 24V? the thing has probably been fried years ago by someone trying to figure all this out anyway. Hahaha.

[compirate]

not a transformer, it's a timer タイマ付ソレノイド
you might see if you can pop it open, check the components inside.

also believe the input voltage is 24vac 供紿電圧

not sure i have this right but the last thing seems to be 'suction time' or something like that - the amount of time it pulls the solenoid i suppose - .2 seconds to 1.2 seconds. 吸引時間

are the lights independent of the timer circuit? it looks like they are from that picture of the back. parlors way back in the day used 8vac for lights, but you can use 9vdc. pop one out and see if a voltage is listed. you might find that if you can find 28v lights, you can run the whole thing off a small 24vac transformer.

pardon my lack of caps, my shift keys don't work for some reason, unless i use the on screen keyboard.

[Markbett]

OK, so I am sorry for not getting back to this sooner. Life's other duties call.
The Timer suggestion was right on the money. I found an old 24V transformer and got it working. Lights are working with a 9V transformer. Except, I need a replacement bulb for the center feature. The solenoid opens the front door for about 2 seconds. Not sure if the center light comes on when the door opens or is always lit especially since it's burnt out. Also need to find a spring that controls the ball drop at the end of the first top ramp. The only real big issue I'm having is the balls don't want to shoot. See photo below of the hammer, is that complete or is it missing something? The balls only launch about 3" - 4" up the ramp. Is there an adjustment? Pictures below.

I rigged up an outlet inside the back of the machine controlled by a toggle switch for easy on and off. Should be enough room to place a catch bucket even with the transformer where it is. It's not going to pass a UL inspection but should be safe.

Sorry the pictures or of do their own thing when I post them.

Timer with solenoid
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broken spring
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This is the missing bulb socket, it goes under the Sankyo cover.
photo 1-6.JPG

This is the shooter tip. All I have a spring, should there be a rubber piece on that?
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Transformer mounting
photo 1-7.JPG

On/ Off Toggle switch
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Distribution block, separate sides for 24 volt and 9 volt.
If I can find 24 volt bulbs, I'll re-wire it all off the 24 volt transformer.
photo 1-5.JPG

So the questions:
Where do I find the missing spring?
where do I find the missing bulb?
How do I get this thing to shoot?

And finding a bulb like that is not easy, before you tell me Pep Boys has it (which they don't)
I can send larger photo's if anyone wants to see something bigger.

[Markbett]

up-date on the shooter. Got it working, looks like it was not aligned properly with the springs.

[mxfaiman]

That spring isn't really needed. The light bulbs can be found out radio shack or most online electronic sites. You just need a mini screw base 9V dc. And there is no rubber tip for the shooter hammer. It doesn't actually mark up the balls at all. Though I would recommend putting a little CLR on an old toothbrush and scrub it on that a little then put water on the brush and dry the spring. They usually clean up quite a bit and that way it won't leave rust remnants on the balls or the machine.

Also just FYI I don't think the white wire needs power. That should be just to let the parlor know when the machine was out of balls (so it should have current coming out).

[Moparformances]

one thing you might consider is moving your power switch to the 110 side of things.. that way your not providing power to the wall warts full time.. they can get hot if left on for long periods..