Ready to Start Restoration: 1951-53 ? Nishijin "All 20" Single Shot

[mxfaiman]

I use safety wire as well. I twist mine though before I staple it down.(take a pair of pliers, grab both ends, twist all the way to the end.) Than just wipe a little wood glue over the back to make sure the staple and everything won't pull out. I usually try to end up putting the tip of the safety wire back into the original hole where the cotter pin (or whatever) was hammered in. That way nothing will catch on it.

[Rival]

This is the tool I use for the safety wire: Safety Wiring Procedure for Spinners : Vintage Wheels, Hot Rod and Muscle car

Also, it has been my experience that the Unicell sticker indicates the actual year of manufacture as opposed to they tax stamps that usually indicate the expiration.

[mxfaiman]

Also, it has been my experience that the Unicell sticker indicates the actual year of manufacture as opposed to they tax stamps that usually indicate the expiration.

I don't know about that. I have seen machines in late 60's that have a unicell tag of 64 when clearly they aren't from 64. The Unicell sticker is for the patent on the artwork and says when the patent expires.

[emmadog]

I don't think pachinko companies patented any of their artwork. Why would some do it and others not? It seems we'd see lots more patent stickers on various cels than we do. Pachinko machines were mass produced for as cheap as possible and many if not all used parts from the same suppliers. I just don't think they were terribly concerned with the art aspect of it and protecting it. I'm betting those copyright dates pertain to the technology and method for cel manufacture by the companies that made them.

[enigmagic]

So I sent out the chrome pieces to the plater, its running me $400 to re-chrome two flippers, two finger rests, two front plates, and a frame, as we as clean and polish two aluminum ball trays. I figured I might as well send off the stuff that needed it from the 1964 Model A single shot I have at the same which saves time and money on the whole job. So its a bit pricey, but worth it. The frame was indeed rusted to the point that it was not polish-able, and I figure let the professionals do what they're good at, and re-chrome all the parts that need it.

I cut the wire on the front of the cel to remove the ball track, and will remove the wires from the back when I take the back apart. My hope is to get the front restored and put back together (other than the ball track) before disassembling the back, put the ball tray back before reassembling the back, that way I have fewer pieces to keep track of.

I am having quite a time trying to separate the frame from the cel. Any thoughts on making it easier and gentler?

[emmadog]

I'm guessing its nailed. Sometimes you can get lucky and they're held together with large wood screws.
Anyway, grab a couple of items to use to pry with such as Flathead screwdrivers, smaller pry bar, etc. Grab a hammer and pry tool and tap it between the cel and frame. Split it just a tad and leave the tool in place. Get another pry tool and do the same a few inches down. Do this slowly and all around the frame separating it a little at a time. Take your time and it will go smoothly. When reassembling its easier use to use wood screws.

[enigmagic]

it is indeed nailed, im thinking about cutting the nails with my oscillating saw since i will replace with screws. would likely make for less stress on the 50 year old trim wood. These nails just do not want to budge. Thoughts?

[emmadog]

That may work just fine but I'd still just use the pry method. Its a process that myself and several others have done with success but if you go the saw method, let us know how it turns out. It may be a better way.

[Rival]

The nails are usually spiral so the last thing I would do is grind the heads off. Prying the frame apart is pretty much the only option that works.

[mxfaiman]

So I sent out the chrome pieces to the plater, its running me $400 to re-chrome two flippers, two finger rests, two front plates, and a frame, as we as clean and polish two aluminum ball trays. I figured I might as well send off the stuff that needed it from the 1964 Model A single shot I have at the same which saves time and money on the whole job. So its a bit pricey, but worth it. The frame was indeed rusted to the point that it was not polish-able, and I figure let the professionals do what they're good at, and re-chrome all the parts that need it.

I'm surprised they said they were able to plate the finger posts. As they are made out of pot metal and generally don't plate well. They guy we took our stuff to said he couldn't plate them.