Ready to Start Restoration: 1951-53 ? Nishijin "All 20" Single Shot

[enigmagic]

Hello all, I have not posted here in quite a while, as I have had to take a break from my pachi habit due to life for a bit. I bought this machine, DSC00071.jpgDSC00073.jpgwhich I think is from 1951-53 (though I'm not sure exactly what year, any help there is appreciated), mid last year, and I'm just now getting to a point where I can find time to restore it. This will be my first major restoration, so I'm looking to do it right.

The machine itself is in really good condition, all the mechanicals are in working order, DSC00074.jpgwith the one caveat of some heat damage to the jackpot overflow window: DSC00091.jpg I'm looking for advice on how to restore it. I was thinking that I might be able to boil heat it, and form it back into shape by hand, and if that doesn't work, I'm looking into getting a replacement 3d printed. The machine works other than this, as I have just temporarily filled the hole that the balls would go into the overflow with some foam padding in the meantime.DSC00092.jpg

The other big restoration is to replace the layout background, since the plastic has cracked (likely due to the same heat that melted the overflow window): DSC00076.jpgDSC00078.jpg Since I'm a graphic designer by trade, and other than the cracking, the layout was in such good shape, I got out my trusty pantone book, and color matched it, and have a replacement ready to print: 1953-pachinko-background.jpg Just looking for a advice on the process, what material to print it on. How to safely remove the playfield nails and pockets, and replace them after sanding off the old one. (I seem to remember someone advising punching all your holes with an awl before nailing)

[enigmagic]

I would like to restore and keep the stickers as much as possible. Any advice on keeping them would be greatly appreciated. Any tips on re-chroming the window frame? I don't know that polish will do it for this one. DSC00089.jpg I am sure that I will make more posts as the restoration progresses, till then, any first timer tips and tricks that I should know about?

[emmadog]

U can get the frame rechromed but it will likely be a couple hundred bucks or more.
Pulling nails is best done with a tool for the job. They're commonly called cat's paw nail pullers and are at hardware stores and come in many sizes. You can pull all the nails out easily and quickly with that tool.
Everyone I know including myself that have printed the backgrounds out use automotive adhesive vinyl. Its the stuff that car graphics are made from and any print shop can do it. It works nicely.
However I think a better alternative would be to print it on paper and ten have that laminated which is how the originals look like they were done. Paper will give you better resolution and richer color although your background is simple and very cool by the way.
That's the route I'm going to take for the next one I do.
For the old one, just peel it off and sand down the residue till you get to bare wood. Center the new one and place it on. The food thinks about vinyl backgrounds is that they stretch and pressing down will show all the old nail holes as dimples.
To remove the pockets and such, gently stick a putty knife or something thin behind the component. Pry up enough so that the nail holding it comes up as well. Grab pliers and pull the nails out. Just go slow doing it.
As for the melted part, boiling water may be too hot. I'd try a hair dryer first or a very low oven that you closely keep your eye on.

[emmadog]

Small nail puller for $2.50.

[emmadog]

For the stickers I save them as well. Usually they can't be removed without being destroyed. So I cut the sticker off of the cel (background) and glue it to the new cel. I'd rather have the original than a new reprint but a reprint is better than nothing.

[mxfaiman]

For info on the build year. Check page 20 & 21 (in link below). I'm sure it will look familiar.
pachinkoboy.com - Nishijin Vintage Machine Catalog

I print the background on Auto vinyl as well. I'm kinda against the paper idea as it could end up looking like the original over time. (not saying it is a bad thing. I just don't like it.)

To get the old background off I use a putty knife. Then take a spray bottle with some water and spray the remaining paper on the background and scrape off with a putty knife. Then sand up to around 220 grit. Then 3 coats of sanding sealer or semigloss or matte clear. (make sure you sand with 400 after coat #1)

For the stickers I save them as well. Usually they can't be removed without being destroyed. So I cut the sticker off of the cel (background) and glue it to the new cel. I'd rather have the original than a new reprint but a reprint is better than nothing.

[enigmagic]

so on your website you state in the history section "In 1951 several manufacturers began producing "All-20" machines called "Barrage" machines, but these were outlawed in 1953 by the gaming authorities." Yet in the nishijin models section, it says my machine is from 1960, which seems likely given the chrome frame and large ball tray. Yet there is, plain as day, an "all 20" sticker on the lower left of the machine. And it does indeed pay out 20 balls. So either that restriction was abandoned by 1960, or there is some bad info there.

Also, how do you recommend removing the stickers after cutting around them? Putty knife again?

[emmadog]

The stickers remain on the original cel material since you can't separate the two without ruining them. Cut to the edge of the sticker so that what you have is the sticker plus the original cel as a backing.

[mxfaiman]

so on your website you state in the history section "In 1951 several manufacturers began producing "All-20" machines called "Barrage" machines, but these were outlawed in 1953 by the gaming authorities." Yet in the nishijin models section, it says my machine is from 1960, which seems likely given the chrome frame and large ball tray. Yet there is, plain as day, an "all 20" sticker on the lower left of the machine. And it does indeed pay out 20 balls. So either that restriction was abandoned by 1960, or there is some bad info there.

Thanks for pointing that out. I would be under the impression that the ban was probably lifted or not as strict. Then again Nishijin was playing with new designs at that time so maybe this was a new idea was to bring back the All 20. Not saying you have some special prototype machine though. It is probably just an exception.

Some of the info in the history section I borrowed from another member's site and parts I never 100% agreed to or could trust. (Most I have changed.)

The stickers remain on the original cel material since you can't separate the two without ruining them. Cut to the edge of the sticker so that what you have is the sticker plus the original cel as a backing.

Yep that is what I do.

[enigmagic]

then do you leave the stickers on the cel while sanding down the wood around them and then cut a window out of the new cel material to let them show through? or do you remove the cel material from the wood with the stickers still on it, cut the stickers out and then re-adhere? If you are removing the cel material with the stickers on it, how do you do that without damaging the stickers?

[enigmagic]

Also, has anyone tried their hand at powder coating the metal pieces that have a bad habit of corroding on the older machines, such as the ball hopper and metal dispensing runs? Is this considered taboo for restoring a machine, given that they were raw metal originally? I would think that it would be a great idea in the name of preservation, since it makes them practically corrosion and impact proof. Just a thought.

[mxfaiman]

Pull up the whole background with the stickers still on it. Then cut out the stickers and glue them onto the new background. (3M Super 77 works pretty good.) The stickers usually will not be damaged when removing the playfield. Only time they will be is if before you peel off the background that you notice the stickers are peeling up and crack because they became brittle.

[enigmagic]

Given the cracks and damage to the playfield, I have my doubts that the playfield will remove cleanly, any tips?

[mxfaiman]

Take some super nice hires pictures of the stickers. that way if they do tear you have the pictures and could possibly design a replacement and have it also printed on the vinyl. I don't think you'll have a problem if you just take it easy.

[emmadog]

Its not necessary for the playfield to come up cleanly although it is convenient. Usually as the background is pulled up it leaves behind a paper layer that is glued to the wood.
I've never had to do the following but you could take a razor blade and cut around the sticker leaving a half inch or so border. Then take the blade and carefully undercut the sticker and the piece of background its stuck to lifting gently as you go. Once its off, you can then trim the edges. As Max said though, you shouldn't have any trouble. Its easy to do and the background is relatively tough stuff.

[Rival]

To address the question about all-20 barrage machines, please allow me to clarify. The restriction that was placed by the gaming authorities on barrage machines was initially a blanket one outlawing any machine that payed more than 15 per pocket. This was relaxed after the prohibition on successive-shot machines, as the new regulations now allowed both all-15 and barrage machines but only on machines that were not successive-shot. The ban was ultimately lifted in 1969. Some manufacturers brought back barrage machines from time to time, but the all-15 had become a de-facto standard and they were never really popular. Few risked making them, because they feared another outright ban and the financial losses that it would entail.

[enigmagic]

So, update time: Several interesting things that I could use some advice on, and several things I just found interesting:

First up, while I was playing the machine to see if it was functional on the back (which it is for the most part, just needs a couple plastic pieces nudged with a heat gun), this IMG_20140505_124739.jpghappened. I'm not sure why, it has been physically impossible on any of my other machines for the balls to be that far off the playfield. The frame seems to be mounted correctly, the glass is in the back slot, and the table is generally level. Any thoughts?

So I have everything but the ball track removed from the playfield. Mine is put on with wire. I am vaguely mortified at the idea of taking it off, as I'm not sure how to put it back with the same technique, and I really don't want to have to disassemble the entire back of the machine to get to the wires. Anyone have experience with this? Is there a way to remove it from the front and still be able to replace it? Or am I just going to have to start a second workbench for the back of the machine, and have parts everywhere?

The machine is indeed a 1960, as the UnCell sticker is from 61, though the date was underneath the ball feed. IMG_20140506_022015.jpg

As it turns out, the color on the upper right circle of the background is a totally different color than I thought, as under the center feature trim it is a nice chocolate brown, not the olive green that it has faded to. IMG_20140506_022234.jpg My replacement has been updated.

It looks like the machine has been played so much that the ends of the ball track have been bent and hammered by the constant barrage of balls, which I found interesting, as I have never noticed this with any of my other vintage machines. IMG_20140505_221536.jpg

Only four randomly placed pins were spiral shanked. The rest of them were just straight nails. Not certain how or why that is, any thoughts?

The playfield on this one is really brittle, I have serious doubts about saving the patent stickers, as they are under the laminate, and the laminate is breaking up really badly, even just from pulling pockets and trim. I shall do my best, but take good pictures first.

Has anyone ever thought about powder coating the metal hoppers and chutes on the back of these really old machines? Seems to me it would make them nearly rust and impact proof. I can see leaving all the jackpot mechanisms in their native brass for the proper tolerance, I'm just talking about the sheet steel formed stuff. Is this a restoration taboo, or a way to help preserve the original parts for as long as possible?

So there's update #1, let me know what you think, and any tips for my trouble areas. Thanks for all the help, this community is a wonderful resource.

[emmadog]

Only time I've had the balls that far from the cel is when I didn't have a nail or some component fully nailed in and was pushing out in the plastic. Can be hard to see sometimes. If your machine is using glass then I'm not sure what could cause that.
No way to replace the cel without removing the ball track. There's plenty of info here on how to do it but here's the rundown. After you do what you have to to get the track off, reattach it by using stainless steel wire aka safety wire. Pull it through to the back, bend it down and staple it. Hammer flat if need be and cut off the excess wire. The track is reused but the old wire holding it to the cel is not.
The colors on the cels fade badly but when parts are removed, the original color can usually be seen.
The ball track ends are frequently peened back.
No idea on the spiral vs. smooth pins. Many times pockets and other parts use the smooth shank pins.
I've thought about powder coating but personally I wouldn't like the look. I'd rather polish the metal with a wire wheel and have it the natural metal color.

[emmadog]

-Spool of safety wire.
-Original tax stamp sticker placed on a new cel
-Ball track wire pulled through rear then stapled and hammered down.

[emmadog]

Just to expand a little more on the ball track: You're going to have to remove all the parts from the back that cover the spots where the wire comes through. That's the only way to be able to pull the wire tight from the back and therefore secure the track properly to the front.