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Thread: CR Units

  1. #1
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default CR Units

    Not the dongle type but those slim units in the parlours with slots for cash, cards and coins,

    I went for what I hope is the basic one, No currency slots in this one, just a magnetic card reader/writer. Also has a 100v input

    DSC02637_zpscf87779f.jpg

    2x comms ports on the back and a set of jumpers plus a mysterious 2 pin socket


    DSC02642_zps1c84a6b9.jpg DSC02641_zps85822e89.jpg

    Standard 25 pin D connector

    DSC02643_zps9c0874ea.jpg

    Key to the different covers

    DSC02640_zpsa80e7e01.jpg

    General infomation stickers, including error codes for the display on the front of the unit



    DSC02639_zps077ebf5a.jpg DSC02638_zpsf3c9a679.jpg
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  3. #2
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Lift the clip at the back to remove the top section of the unit.

    DSC02644_zps50396771.jpg DSC02645_zps5d3bdfd6.jpg

    Reset key switch, A lovely round key Connected to, yes you guessed.. An optical sensor. Thoses pesky things get everywhere

    DSC02646_zpsf4d9d610.jpg DSC02647_zps8c4699a7.jpg

    Picture with the top cover removed. showing the main controller for it.

    DSC02648_zps80aac26b.jpg

    A nice view of the front
    features 2 buttons and a 2 digit? digital display.


    DSC02650_zps88c625eb.jpg
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  5. #3
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    The card reader unit removed by 4 screws and 1 connector

    DSC02649_zps93adb178.jpg

    Lifted the top cover off to show the magnetic reader along the bottom. Also hidden in the black plastic is about 5 tiny photocels to detect if a card has been placed in the reader, then the motor kicks in to pull the card in.
    Oh the cards these use must be really thin as a standard credit card will not fit through the bezel.

    DSC02651_zps1d695764.jpg

    I was hoping to somehow remove the reader and the controller from these and just install the daverob dongle and smart card reader in the case. Although it would be nice to keep the motor function and have the card return button on the front of the pachis to return the card. Then use the key switch on the front to either enter programming mode or add credit. But I think that is way past my abilities. So I might just remove all the insides and just fit the dongle and reader. I'll try to hook one up to a machine tomorrow, But without any comms inputs, I doubt much will happen.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  7. #4
    Eye Shooter Chumsize's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Hmmm... wonder if you could dig up some of the newer (thin, no contacts outside) IC cards they use on YJA. It would be soooo cool to get the whole shebang working.
    check this out: y‚J@ƒpƒCƒƒbƒgƒJ[ƒhiICƒJ[ƒhjz: –^‹@ŠBƒ[ƒJ[‹ZpŽƒpƒp‚•s’ŠXV


    shows how the cards connect up now...


    OOOh... check this out... http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g132324550
    Last edited by Chumsize; 04-16-2014 at 06:33 PM.
    Woof!

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  9. #5
    Eye Shooter heima's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Hmmm, Good Luck DC!
    You'll get it working.
    Da' Horse!

    Don't F with Pachinko Machines, Man !

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  11. #6
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    The idea is to use the chip cards Daverob supplies The bezel in these look just wide enough for a card about as thick as a car park barrier ticket. As this is made before cards with code numbers. Does it actually need a comms connection? Have they just used that style of socket to connect say a note/coin acceptor? If you look in the socket, it only has 2 pins in it.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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    Eye Shooter heima's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Hold it, you mean the 25 pin sub D connector on the card reader doesn't attach to the 25 pin sub D connector on the pachinko? So you can't just hook up 24 vac to the white connector, hook up a 25 pin cable between the card reader and pachinko, cross your fingers, and have it work?

    You need to have some type of communication over the 2-pin "phone jack" RJ-45 type connector as well? If so, I would guess that to be asynchronous RS-232, software handshake. But this is Japanese gambling, so it might be some other protocol. Like a token ring, two wire network or similar? Speaking of protocols, are the magnetic stripe cards interchangeable, or are they also proprietary? And does the card reader have the ability to format a card?

    I'll shut up now.
    Da' Horse!

    Don't F with Pachinko Machines, Man !

  13. #8
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Quote Originally Posted by heima View Post
    Hold it, you mean the 25 pin sub D connector on the card reader doesn't attach to the 25 pin sub D connector on the pachinko? So you can't just hook up 24 vac to the white connector, hook up a 25 pin cable between the card reader and pachinko, cross your fingers, and have it work?

    You need to have some type of communication over the 2-pin "phone jack" RJ-45 type connector as well? If so, I would guess that to be asynchronous RS-232, software handshake. But this is Japanese gambling, so it might be some other protocol. Like a token ring, two wire network or similar? Speaking of protocols, are the magnetic stripe cards interchangeable, or are they also proprietary? And does the card reader have the ability to format a card?

    I'll shut up now.





    I took some closer look at the rear circuit board with the RJ-45 connectors, there is 4 pins in there and they are linked together on the circuit board as well 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4.
    With the unit connected to a pachi, via the 25 pin d connector. The shooter works, but the display on the machine is blank and the display on the CR unit is reading 61. 61 isn't one of the error codes listed

    I've opened up the processor and taken some pics of the board, so I can try to work out what the ics basically do. Ideally, I would like to remove the processor. Install the daverob dongle in its place, and try to install the card chip reader onto the chassis of the magnetic card reader.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  15. #9
    Master Inventor daverob's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Quote Originally Posted by heima View Post
    You need to have some type of communication over the 2-pin "phone jack" RJ-45 type connector as well? If so, I would guess that to be asynchronous RS-232, software handshake.
    I'd be guessing at RS485 as it's going to be one controller linked to several card units.

    Speaking of protocols, are the magnetic stripe cards interchangeable, or are they also proprietary? And does the card reader have the ability to format a card?
    Proprietary. The magnetic stripes aren't the standard type you find on credit cards and I doubt you could write something on a standard magstripe reader/writer that would work in a pre-paid card unit like this. I'd expect that some of the tracks on the pre-paid card would be factory programmed and the card unit wouldn't be able to modify it (for security reasons). However the card mechanism should be capable of reading/writing to any track, it just might need a different controller.

    I think Drunkenclam's got the right idea, if the card mechanism will take normal ISO7816 sized cards and he can modify it to add the chip card contacts, then it shouldn't be too hard to get it to work with a Card Reader Emulator dongle.

    DC, Have you tried putting anything in the slot, just to see if the display changes at all or if the feed and eject mechanism works at all?

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  17. #10
    Gibisans - Japan West compirate's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    I think the RJ45 connectors are parlor lines (letting the parlor know what a specific unit is doing), probably daisy-chained to the rest.

    The cards have no visible mag strips. They're about the thickness of a couple pieces of paper. One of the old ways to cheat was to buy a card and cut it into strips, then glue those onto several other cards so the reader thought they were valid cards. That way you would get 3000Y or more for your 1000Y investment. The older units punched holes in them also to show that they were used. My guess is that the cards and readers are programmed for the specific parlor so cards from one can't be used in another. For a card to work, you'd need that 'key' first. Gutting it and coming up with something using the Dongle inside would be the best bet, perhaps with an adrino or something to run the card reader mechanism.

    Is there anything in the lower part of the frame? Looks like there's something in there to reset? リセットキー - reset key?

    By the way, the spring thing on the front is where your supposed to leave your card when it's empty.

    Mystery jumpers-

    リレー接点 - Relay contact
    断線検知 - Disconnection detection
    設定バターソ- Setting Bataso?
    Last edited by compirate; 04-18-2014 at 03:26 AM.

    人生は恐れなければ、とても素晴らしいものなんだよ。
    人生に必要なもの。それは勇気と想像力、そして少しのお金だ。

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  19. #11
    Master Inventor daverob's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    If the cards are just a bit thicker than paper, then maybe UK train tickets could be re-perposed, as they are are a medium weight card with a magnetic stripe, or at least something to use to check if the feed mechanism is working properly, before you try to modify it to accept the thicker smartcards.

    If the built in controller is still able to accept and eject cards, then I'd try to keep it rather than replacing it with an arduino or similar to just do the accept/eject functionality. With maybe a relay to cut power to the motor or the controller to keep the card from being auto ejected before you want it to be. If you drive the relay from the Ball Loan Available LED output of the dongle, then you can use the 'A-2' setting which only lights the LED when there's credit on the smartcard. This should allow the card units controller to auto eject empty cards, and the relay will disable the controller while there's credit on the card, re-enabling it (and hopefully ejecting the card) when the credit has run out. For a couple of beer tokens, I could be persuaded to add an 'A-3' setting that allows the Return button to turn off the LED (and re-enable the controller to eject the card).

    Quote Originally Posted by compirate View Post
    設定バターソ- Setting Bataso?
    Are you sure that last character isn't an ン (n) rather than a ソ (so), as 'Setting Button' makes far more sense in context.

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  21. #12
    Gibisans - Japan West compirate's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    I was using Windows IME pad for text input, not easy with a little mouse for writing.

    人生は恐れなければ、とても素晴らしいものなんだよ。
    人生に必要なもの。それは勇気と想像力、そして少しのお金だ。

  22. #13
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Before the comms signal get sent to the 50pin plug that joins the back frame to the main body, they go through this chip first. RC05c marked as L1

    DSC02666_zps4b061422.jpg

    The main controller is sealed in a case with 4 security screws. Lucky these are quite simple to get off revealing the main board beneath.

    DSC02656_zps678ac080.jpg

    The 50 pin socket at the bottom connects to the read frame, The socket on the left goes to the card reader, The 3 pin socket goes to the reset switch, The ribbon cable goes to the front display and buttons, the 2 pin socket goes to a light bulb at front of the unit, at the very top.

    The right hand side looks mostly power related with a rectifer and capacitors, althought the parts covered in black are a mystery, and they can stay that way
    For something thats sealed in with security fixings, Why stick a glass fuse in there

    A big long line of optocouplers running from the top to the bottom.


    DSC02658_zps43ef14e9.jpg

    2x 8bit ram chips on the bottom left hand side.

    DSC02657_zpscb482560.jpg


    The 2 big ic at the top I can't read the writing on due to the colour used on them Other ic are a quad 2 input AND gate, hex inverting schimitt trigger, octal D type flip-flop with reset. dual 4 input Nand gate,
    Last edited by Drunkenclam; 04-18-2014 at 12:42 PM.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  24. #14
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    I had 3 of these sent over, I plugged all of them in one at a time, 2 have the display showing 19, the other flashes E4 then 09.
    I took the cover that goes over the reset switch and blocked the photcell controlled by the reset switch, The display didn't change at all, I removed the front bevel off the readers and inserted my nector card into each one, As soon as it crosses the first photocell, the motor kicks in and trys to push the card back out again. The display does not change. The 2 buttons on the front of the unit or on the pachi have no effect. If you turn the power off to the cr unit, the shooter fails to work any more.


    I think the first thing to do, is to work out what the cables going to the card reader do

    The units are labelled as Nasuka KU-10G

    グ*ーリーナスカ*式会社

    DSC02668_zps6a1fe376.jpg

    If I do a search, All I seem to find is the dealer where I brought these from.
    Last edited by Drunkenclam; 04-18-2014 at 12:49 PM.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  26. #15
    Master Inventor daverob's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    The RC05 next to the RJ11's is probably just a noise filter. The black blob on the main board is most likely a switch-mode voltage regulator or DC-DC converter, you used to find similar modules in VCRs in the early '90s.

    Interesting to see so many opto-isolators. It seems to be a common thing in the pachinko world, almost all machine-to-machine connections (ie card unit, battle counter etc) connections are opto-isolated, often at both ends. I'd assume that most of them connect to the signals on the D25, there's certainly enough to isolate all of the signals including the LED display (but I don't know why you'd need to!).

    Complete guess here, but maybe the number showing on the display is the ID of the card unit for communications with the backend server. If the error is '4E' rather than 'E4' then that translates to 'Card Net Error', which I assume is another reference to the backend server network connection. I suppose it makes sense that the machine will not accept cards at all unless it's got a server connection, but I was hoping that it would at least suck the card all the way in before rejecting it, as that would have made the electrical modifications a whole lot easier.

    If there's no way to do anything without the server, then it probably makes the entire controller board a bit of a paperweight.

    I think that this will mean that if you want to use the card reader mechanism, you're going to have to find a bit of data on the connections for it (or do some reverse engineering). Is there any identifying information on the card reader mechanism itself that can be searched to find a pinout or datasheet? If not then post some good photos of the area of the PCB around the connector (both at the card reader end of the cable and the controller board end), and it should be possible to figure out which pins are the power connections, which are data and with a bit of luck which are inputs and which are outputs by tracing back the connections to a component that you can get datasheets on.

    Then you can verify the power connections with a meter, and measure if there's any activity on the other pins and see if this changes at either end of the cable if you disconnect (or cut) the individual pin connection. If there is an 'enable' pin that will allow it to accept the card you should be able to figure it out with this method. With a bit of luck there'll be another pin that controls the 'eject' function that you can wire up to a button. On the other hand if all communication is handled over the serial 'data' connection, then you'll probably be lost without a datasheet.

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  28. #16
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Did some probing. Got just 2 wires connected to the card reader. On seeing a card the motor drives in for a split second, then reverses and spits the card out. I guess it's because it's not getting a signal from the magnetic reader. Also for interest. The motor has an optical encoder on the back.
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  30. #17
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    So what to do? The simplest thing is remove all the innards and just bolt the dongle and card chip reader in. But I would love to still have the motorised function with eject function from either the rh button on the pachinko or one of the buttons on the unit.
    Now I know nothing about the arduino units. Apart from you can get the basic one from Maplins for under 25. But I read that you shouldn't use the output to drive motors direct. The motor on the card reader is controlled by a toshiba TA8428K controller.

    I could use 2 of the 4 photocells on the reader to say when to start the motor and to turn off when card is in place.

    So what can I use the 2 buttons and display on the front. Scrolling message? (InSErt CArd) (EJECt) Eject buttons? With the key switch to add credit? Or re-program dongle?
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  32. #18
    Master Inventor daverob's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Unless there's some way of fooling the card reader to keep the motor running for long enough to take the card fully in? What kind of encoder is on the motor, can it be disconnected or rewired so that the controller keeps the motor running for longer? What effect does blocking the opto's have on the motor feed?

    If you want to go the arduino route, there are many cheaper versions than the Maplin kit. You will need an arduino and a 'shield' for connecting up to the motor. The photocells can be wired direct to the inputs. If you do design an arduino based circuit, then check the pinouts and try to leave any pins that can be used as part of an 'I2C' bus unused. The dongle communicates to the smartcard and reader using I2C communication and so it would be a much simpler modification for the dongle to send an 'eject' command to the arduino using this connection than it would be using a dedicated signal on another pin.

    I don't know that much about arduinos, as I come from a generation where you just take the microcontroller chip and program it using it's own machine code, and all of the beginner friendly features that make the arduino simpler to use and program are actually a turn-off for me as they distance me from the parts of the chip that I want to control directly. But I should be able to offer some help with the electronics side of things if you do decide to go this route.

    As far as the display and buttons, have you dismantled far enough to check if the display is 2 or 3 digits? They could also be connected to the arduino (or replaced with an arduino compatible 3 digit display) and could show the credit remaining on the card by monitoring the I2C communications and intercepting the reads and writes to the smartcard.

    The keyswitch and one of the buttons could be used to add credit to the dongle using the 'External Input' pin on the dongle's expansion connector. Either replace the opto on the keyswitch with a physical switch and wire it inline with the 'add credit' button' or figure out the logic needed for the same functionality but still using the opto.

    Using the keyswitch to get into setup mode would have been simpler with the Rev1 dongle (just wire a switch to the jumper pins) but it would still require a power-cycle to get into setup mode. With the Rev2 it's more complicated as you would need relays or similar to make the keyswitch simulate both buttons on the pachinko being pressed (and the power-cycle), or it would require a non-trivial modification to the dongle's internal software. Ignoring the keyswitch for this purpose and using a setup mode smartcard would be a much simpler way for the Rev2 dongle.

    The ideas floating around in my head for the Rev3 dongle (if it ever gets futher than an idea!) would be for the dongle to use the I2C bus to communicate with more external accessories, so a remote credit display and extra buttons would be a much simpler addition and the dongle would be able to send commands to control a motorised card reader. Unfortunately this is a lot of work, and I don't have the time for a complete re-write of the dongle's operating system at the moment.

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  34. #19
    I was thrown out of Top Gear Drunkenclam's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Quote Originally Posted by daverob View Post
    Unless there's some way of fooling the card reader to keep the motor running for long enough to take the card fully in? What kind of encoder is on the motor, can it be disconnected or rewired so that the controller keeps the motor running for longer? What effect does blocking the opto's have on the motor feed?

    If you want to go the arduino route, there are many cheaper versions than the Maplin kit. You will need an arduino and a 'shield' for connecting up to the motor. The photocells can be wired direct to the inputs. If you do design an arduino based circuit, then check the pinouts and try to leave any pins that can be used as part of an 'I2C' bus unused. The dongle communicates to the smartcard and reader using I2C communication and so it would be a much simpler modification for the dongle to send an 'eject' command to the arduino using this connection than it would be using a dedicated signal on another pin.

    I don't know that much about arduinos, as I come from a generation where you just take the microcontroller chip and program it using it's own machine code, and all of the beginner friendly features that make the arduino simpler to use and program are actually a turn-off for me as they distance me from the parts of the chip that I want to control directly. But I should be able to offer some help with the electronics side of things if you do decide to go this route.

    As far as the display and buttons, have you dismantled far enough to check if the display is 2 or 3 digits? They could also be connected to the arduino (or replaced with an arduino compatible 3 digit display) and could show the credit remaining on the card by monitoring the I2C communications and intercepting the reads and writes to the smartcard.

    The keyswitch and one of the buttons could be used to add credit to the dongle using the 'External Input' pin on the dongle's expansion connector. Either replace the opto on the keyswitch with a physical switch and wire it inline with the 'add credit' button' or figure out the logic needed for the same functionality but still using the opto.

    Using the keyswitch to get into setup mode would have been simpler with the Rev1 dongle (just wire a switch to the jumper pins) but it would still require a power-cycle to get into setup mode. With the Rev2 it's more complicated as you would need relays or similar to make the keyswitch simulate both buttons on the pachinko being pressed (and the power-cycle), or it would require a non-trivial modification to the dongle's internal software. Ignoring the keyswitch for this purpose and using a setup mode smartcard would be a much simpler way for the Rev2 dongle.

    The ideas floating around in my head for the Rev3 dongle (if it ever gets futher than an idea!) would be for the dongle to use the I2C bus to communicate with more external accessories, so a remote credit display and extra buttons would be a much simpler addition and the dongle would be able to send commands to control a motorised card reader. Unfortunately this is a lot of work, and I don't have the time for a complete re-write of the dongle's operating system at the moment.
    The motor has an encoder disc mounted on the back with a opto transmitter/receiver to counter the holes as the motor goes round, indicating spped and distance traveled (well that what we use them for on automatic doors ) I was hoping if possible to untilies the Toshiba motor controller. With the encoder diconnected. It had no efect, Motor started on presence of a card, then almost immediatly reversed and splat the card out.

    https://www.toshiba.com/taec/compone...E_EN_24897.pdf

    You will have to excuse my ignorance, But from what I can make out it would do the same job as the shield as long as pins 4 and 7 are connected to a clean power source and using a combination of inputs high or low from the arduino to pins 1 and 2 I can start/stop or reverse the motor. As per the table on page 7 of the pdf above.

    As for I2C, I read the basic intoduction and thats fine, till it starts talking about codes , then I just get But I'm sure if I studied more than just 10 minutes during my lunch break via an iphone screen, It would make more sense

    The display is 2 digit 7 segment display with 16 pins. these are connected through resistors to 2 ic labelled 74LV273.

    http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74LV273.pdf This is the point that it starts to go over my head.

    Oh also out of interest, there is 2 red leds on the board that when in a parlour will illuminate medals or balls. I guess its a standard front section and they change the processor depending if its for a slo or pachi. The front board is connected to the main processor via a 20 core ribbon cable. Thats for 2 buttons, 2 leds and the dual 7 seg display.

    So for a rough outline, lets aim for the following.

    with no card present in the reader the shooter knob doesn't work (via S-n setting on the dongle) and the reader display will scroll "Insert Card"

    On presenting the card in the slot, the motor kicks in and drives the card onto the chip reader and stops. (using the photocells) If the card hasn't reached the final photcell in 5 seconds, the motor will stop and reverse and eject the card. If the card fails to eject in another 5 seconds. The unit will shut down and "error will appear on the display.

    Once the card is in the reader, The display will change to available credit. (Not sure about this as only 2 digit display and the credit will also be displayed on the machine) Maybe someone can think of something else better than "Play Ball"

    On inserting the (reset) key. The top button would add 10 credits (250 balls), the bottom button will add 40 credits (1000 balls) to the card.

    Pressing the right button on the pachi will send the command to eject the card. Display might say "eject" till card has been fully removed from the reader.

    Any thought or ideas from the pachi community before I start counting inputs and outputs, Nows the time
    Ian #UKPachinko

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  36. #20
    Master Inventor daverob's Avatar
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    Default Re: CR Units

    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkenclam View Post
    But from what I can make out it would do the same job as the shield as long as pins 4 and 7 are connected to a clean power source and using a combination of inputs high or low from the arduino to pins 1 and 2 I can start/stop or reverse the motor. As per the table on page 7 of the pdf above.
    Yeah, that will be just as good as an arduino shield, so you just need two pins on the arduino to drive it and to find some compatible driver code. Most motor driver chips are similar, so you should be able to find someone selling a motor driver shield, connect your driver chip to the same pins and then copy their driver code.

    As for I2C, I read the basic intoduction and thats fine, till it starts talking about codes , then I just get
    Don't worry about it now, just leave the appropriate 2 pins free. For the moment you could just disable the 'Return' button on the dongle, and connect the button on the pachinko to the arduino to perform the eject function. It'll make it harder to use setup mode on the dongle (as you'll need to reconnect the 'Return' button to the dongle to use it). It just in the Rev3 dongle future you'll be able to use the I2C connection to communicate with the dongle and this might allow you to add some more/better features to your reader through changing the arduino software.

    The display is 2 digit 7 segment display with 16 pins. these are connected through resistors to 2 ic labelled 74LV273. ...
    The front board is connected to the main processor via a 20 core ribbon cable. Thats for 2 buttons, 2 leds and the dual 7 seg display.
    Are the '273 chips mounted on the button/LED board? You'll need to trace the connections back to the ribbon cable to check their function.

    The '273 chips are D-Type latches, so they'll be quite simple to use. I'm making a few assumptions about how they're connected but it will most likely be used something like this...

    You'll have 8 'Data' connection pins (D0-D7) that you set to determine which segments of the LED are on or off, then you send a pulse to the 'Clock' pin (CP) and it will transfer the contents of the data pins to the output pins (Q0-7) which should be connected to the LEDs. They will probably be wired so that each chip controls one of the LED digits, the data pins will be connected to the equivalent pin on the other chip and the Clock pins will be separate. So you'll write one digit's values to the data pins, pulse the appropriate clock pin, then the other digit's values to the data pins, then pulse the other clock pin.

    If you have other things you'd like to drive from your arduino, you could connect another '273 to the same 'Data' pins and use a separate clock pin to set the outputs of this device. So you'll get an extra 8 outputs from just using the one clock pin on the arduino, which might be useful if you are starting to run out of output pins. If you need more inputs, then you could use a '244 chip on the same data pins so you can read them as 8 input pins.


    So for a rough outline, lets aim for the following.
    ...
    Once the card is in the reader, The display will change to available credit. (Not sure about this as only 2 digit display and the credit will also be displayed on the machine) Maybe someone can think of something else better than "Play Ball"
    I'd leave this out for your first go at this. Getting the available credit from the dongle will require the I2C bus, and this is a lot more complex to achieve. Once you've got the rest working OK, then think about whether you want to try this.

    On inserting the (reset) key. The top button would add 10 credits (250 balls), the bottom button will add 40 credits (1000 balls) to the card.
    Fairly simple to achieve. If you read a top button press, check the state of the keyswitch, then send a single pulse to the output pin connected to the 'External Input' pin of the dongle. If you read a bottom button press, then do the same but with 4 pulses to the external input of the dongle. Dongle will need to be a Rev2 and running r2.1 software or newer for this to work, the external switch debounce setting will need to be set to 'E-0'.


    Next step will be to trace out the connections on the LED display/button board, and figure out the connections to the ribbon cable. That should tell you how many I/O pins you'll need to drive the display and read the buttons. Then feed a card into the reader by hand and check which of the optos you'll need to use to detect a card and determine when it's fully inserted. I'm assuming that you'll only need two optos for this, so the motor will need two outputs and the optos two input pins.

    The dongle side should just need 4 pins. The 2 pins reserved for the I2C communications (one of which will be used to tell the dongle that a card has been inserted), One for the 'External Input' to add credit, and one that is connected to the 'Return' button connection.

    The only other thing to think about is the power supply. Will you be using the power supply that's already built into the card unit, or your own?

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