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Thread: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

  1. #61
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Yes, I was trying manually. Max gave me some tips, but i never tried them. The tips from Max in the post I linked were far better than any instructions on their site. I will try to learn it again some day...but net ready to invest the time in the learning curve right now. Paint.Net seems highly regarded, and free...sounds like a good deal.

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    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    First...pay button wires too short. Now...socket won't reach hole.DSCF8663.JPG It is a new socket. The old one was split, and couldn't hold a bulb tight. I probably only lost 1/8" of length. Now the REASON! DSCF8661.JPG The coin acceptor locks into a pocket on the back of the front plate. The front plate is nailed back into original nail holes. The coin acceptor can be used as an accurate place to position the background. If it is off enough for the wires to be too short, wouldn't the balls favor one side?

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    Pachi Puro emmadog's Avatar
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    Are you saying the whole plywood piece that the background sticks to and most of the interior parts mount to is off to the side by 1/8" ?
    The normal variation of force on the shooter lever on each shot by the player makes more of a difference than that 1/8" ever will.
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    I'll put a few balls in after work and shoot them to see what happens.

  5. #65
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    Unless I'm not understanding what has shifted, all the parts mount to that board so everything has shifted together. This means everything is still in the same place relative to each other, no?
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Everything on the board is relative to each other. Only the shooter is a variable. And the wires...but they aren't the issue, just the symptom. I have never test fired a ball yet...soon. If shooter spring is too high or too low...it could have an adverse effect on the launch. I don't expect this to be a problem. If the playfield is tilted a good bit...clockwise, for example. Wouldn't the balls have a tendancy to go towards the right? I may be overthinking it...but now is the time to test fire some balls. I am also curious as to how the taper on the rubber stopper rebounds!

  7. #67
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    So is the playfield tilted or just shifted laterally?
    The shooter may hit the ball incorrectly or with not enough force if the ball is now resting further away from the shooter tip. If that's the case it should be an easy fix by slightly stretching the shooter tip spring or bending as needed.
    Not sure how the balls will land on the playfield...
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Well...the honest answer is "I don't know". As posted earlier, I was having alignment problems. I glued and small original nailed the spacer strips on one at a time. Now I know that is a bad move! From now on...I will attach the strips to the playfield with screws, using nail holes as standards. Then using wood glue and clamps (after a number of dry fits), attach the assembly. There should be enough physical evidence...nail holes, laminations from ply below stuck to spacer, etc. to position it right.
    ANYHOW...I shot some balls through it. Fires balls well. Bumper disappointing. With correct spring tension, balls can be controlled. Probably just drill new coin acceptor holes, and lengthen a few wires. Balls get stuck in places, nails need to be adjusted, etc.

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    Yeah the nail holes/screw holes are how you line things up. I always replace nails with screws when mounting the main plywood piece to the machines frame. But before all that its a good idea to test fit everything.
    The bumper can be a pain. Sometimes the balls rebound nicely and sometimes the bumper launches them down or right into the closest set of nails every time. I just bend the bumper nail until I get it right.
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

  10. #70
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    I knew those screw holes were gonna bother me! So, I shifted the cell. It went pretty good. Bit of a pain because of the wiring installed. I knew I had to shift it while laying FLAT. With all the plastics and chrome on the front...I couldn't lay it on the workbench. So, I used my bed. Removed all tools and loose screws, closed machine and laid face down on bed. Back side up...open cabinet...face down, cabinet standing up...full of power supply, relay board, coin mech ETC. Propped up with pillows and blankets. Sorry no pics...looked delicate. Laying flat like that, I could remove all the screws from the plywood and move it easily! Pilot drilled the holes that needed it, got a few screws in, and stood it up. Shooter lined up nice. Coin mech screwed into original holes. Looks good...but I can't find the pics I just loaded. Loaded some balls and shot them. LOOKS GOOD. I spent a good while just shooting balls and adjusting nails to eliminate stuck spots. It was good, so I put all the screws back in.

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  12. #71
    Pachi Puro pachiwall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    DSCF8698.JPGFull shot of front as it stands now. Looks good, but chrome id badly pitted. I doubt I'll find a suitable donor door. Cell looks good in its position.DSCF8691.JPG The only thing is...it is a little closer hereDSCF8693.JPG then here.DSCF8694.JPGThis switch seems to be in the right location.DSCF8687.JPG But it had nuts stuck to the back. Like it was screwed to a bracket. The wood screws seem to fit the switch holes good...but wont pass through the nuts. I can't find any screws that would work with the nuts in place so I removed them, they were stuck on pretty good. DSCF8671.JPG Finished wiring of the payout button and unknown bulb. I never seen it light because the original socket was split.DSCF8664.JPG Used a small staple to tidy them up. You can see staple holes where they were originally stapled...but this is how they lay, so I stapled them here.DSCF8683.JPG Top half of same wire group, stapled as well.DSCF8703.JPG It is coming together pretty good.

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  14. #72
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    Looks great. Rusted frames are a bummer- there's only so much you can do short of rechroming.
    EM Pinballs & Arrangeballs

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  16. #73
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Plugged it in and tested with power. Some bulbs in the grid didn't light. Haven't switched bulbs yet to see if it is a bulb or switch. Balls still get stuck here and there. Nails need adjusting. The only problem is the yellow door in the center ( I like to call it "The Dollar Door" but will stick with yellow) should open whenever a pocket is hit. It don't open at all. I may have the wires backward, it could be that bad solder joint. That is what I'm gonna do next!

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  18. #74
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    I haven't touched it in awhile, because I was air conditioning my truck. I did order some 680 ohm, 1 watt resistors to drop the resistance at the bulbs for LED's. I started easy with the "low coin" light, and the "wait" light. DSCF8824.JPG The bottom resistor is the low coin wire. After putting in an LED, I turned it on without coins for about 45 minutes. Then I used a non contact infra red thermometer to measure the temperature of the resistor. The highest temperature I read was 110 degrees. This didn't seem excessive to me. I could be wrong. The next easiest part was the scoreboard. On the scoreboard, the negative has 2 wires on it, and each positive has only 1 wire. DSCF8827.JPG Of course I shrink tubed them. DSCF8829.JPG I wanted to stagger the resistors to keep from building up too much heat in one spot.DSCF8830.JPG This ran the operation around the corner towards the relay board. I also didn't want the resistors in the flexing part of the harness...but is probably not a problem. Of course I had to unwrap the harness to access the wires. I used zip strips to bind it back together.DSCF8833.JPG I'm still having intermittent electrical problems. Wiggling wires and unplugging and replugging connectors sometimes help, but reset the game and problem comes back. I'll try to get it to work and hit you with a progress report.

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  20. #75
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Shot some balls...no lights, but the yellow door started working! Without resetting or powering off, I started to unplug and reset connectors. The connector that almost always had a reaction was the big one to the right of the relay board.DSCF8833.JPG Sometimes nothing, sometimes some of the scoreboard lights and grid lights would light up. Were the correct lights on for the pockets hit? Since it is hard to remove the balls without a magnet on a stick, I don't know which pockets they were in. Once ALL the lights, both scoreboard and grid lights, came on. DSCF8835.JPG Two of the scoreboard lights went out before I snapped the pic. The #16 was on...but dim. This was particularly strange, because usually when the other lights don't work, only the #16 does. I am not sure if this connector has a problem, or if power being disconnected and reattached...with random results, depending on which contacts touched 1st. Clearly...I have more tinkering to do!

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  22. #76
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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Quote Originally Posted by pachiwall View Post
    Tried centering the play field on the frame last night. I knew it wouldn't be easy, but did not expect it to be so troublesome. I have some small clamps, bought from Harbor Freight...on sale $1.00 each, impulse buy at the cash register, some time back. Anothe example of "I just don't understand why people don't want to own tools!." You know what I mean...people who buy a $2 screwdriver, use it, then return it claiming they didn't need it after all! Like they are never going to need a screwdriver ever again! I don't know what I would have done without these things!Attachment 73349 The throat was too shallow to reach from the outside edge. Thankfully the outer jaw has a thumbscrew to reverse the jaw to make a spreader out of them as well. I removed the jaw, then inserted the bar through the latch, and coin mech holes, and reattached the jaws, as rhe head was too big to insert through the holes.Attachment 73350Attachment 73351 As you can see, I still haven't stapled the safety wire yet, staples are too long to drive home...and bend over when trying to hammer them down. First I center the hammer on a ball resting on the track.Attachment 73352 then try to find a way to determine the rest is centered. So far I have been using calipers and measuring the distance of the scoring holes from the frame. Each time I tap the board with a brass hammer to shift it to where I want it...it changes other positions. Just when it looks good enough, put a ball in the track...and it is not lined up in the most important spot!Attachment 73353 Close in this pic...but I am under the impression that if not dead center, it will not shoot well. I gave up last night because it was late, and I had too many beers, and was getting frustrated. I will try again after work tonight. This time I will mark a center line on the board and the frame, and some other reference lines to make use of the calipers minimal. This should save some time and frustration. I am planing to use drywall screws long enough to go into the front frame. What do you guys use? It was nailed together with square spiral shank nails. I don't like the idea of pounding on it that hard. putting the laminate front on a solid backing to back up the strikes seems like it could damage it. plus all that pounding could shift the wood. Plus any mistake would be hard to fix. Any suggestions?
    I'm surprised that when doing the alignment there wasn't wooden dowel holes at the top and bottom to assist with alignment of the play field to the frame..

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    Default Re: Restoring 3 STAR arrangeball

    Quote Originally Posted by Phulkrum View Post
    I'm surprised that when doing the alignment there wasn't wooden dowel holes at the top and bottom to assist with alignment of the play field to the frame..
    There was the original nail holes. They went through the plywood that the cell is attached to, and through 3/4" X 3/4" spacer strips, then into the frame. When I glued the strips back onto the frame, I used the bent and straightened out nails to position the strips...and did not get it right. When I put the cell back in place,,,some of the holes lined up...but not all!

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