NeoPlanetT intermittent coin mech issue - any ideas?

[naha13]

Having some intermittent coin mech issues with this NeoPlanetT. ONce working, the coins drop like normal and register as credit. After playing for awhile, the coins stop registering and drop to the front coin tray. If I press the acceptor button on the front I can hear the relay release inside. Any ideas? Here's a pic of the coin mech(just don't ask me about the beer tab...):

Yamasa coin mech .jpg

[heima]

Maybe this. Check the coil for the coin rejector. Is the connection good? Is it getting hot? I might be that the transistor that drives the relay, the transistor that drives the coil, the relay, or the coil itself is failing from over heat. Additionally, there might be a shunting diode for the coil that is failing.

[naha13]

It looks like it engages, but he coil is a little warm. I tried reconnecting the connectors first, then pulled the whole thing to clean the track. I re-pulled it to clean the sensor with a little alcohol, but need to try it out again. Not holding my breath, but if anyone else has more ideas, I'm all ears.

[heima]

I am sorry, I guess I did not make myself clear. From your description, I am thinking that the coil is losing electricity. That when first powered on, the coil works and so coins are registered and go into the hopper. After some time, the coil no longer works, and so no coins are registered and none go into the hopper.

I was suggesting that the coil or the electronics that drives the coil are at fault.

Lets say the coil is old, and has gotten hot over its life, and the insulation on the fine wire wrapped in the coil is allowing electricity to jump from winding to winding. In that case, the coil will become warm, and the electronics that drive the coil will see something like a mild short. This means a greater current draw through those electronics. Those electronics will heat up and either blow a fuse, perform a thermal shutdown, or burn up. Also, as a coil gets hot, its electromagnetic field diminishes. So that might be happening.

Lets say that the coil is fine. But the shunting diode is failing. A coil stores energy in the form of an electromagnetic field. When electricity is applied to the coil, it creates electromagnetism. When the electricity is taken away, the electromagnetic field drops and produces its own electricity that then goes back into the electronics. This is undesirable. A shunting diode is put in parallel with the coil so that the electricity is not sent back to the electronics. When the electricity is sent back into the electronics, it can create a surge that can stress components. If the shunting diode were to fail, then the surge could be affecting the components that drive the coil.

Lets say that the diode is fine, or there is none at all. So next, the coil gets electricity either from a transistor, or a relay.

Lets say it is a relay. A relay uses a coil to hold a switch in a certain position. That coil (yes, just like the coil for the coin rejector) might have electricity jumping windings, or gets too hot, or something. And so like the coin rejector coil, the relay eventually fails to hold the switch.

Lets say it is a transistor. Before I said thermal shutdown. This is a situation where the behavior of a component is affected so much by heat (either from excessive current or heat applied) that its functionality stops. Alternatively, the component could have a safety cut-off device built-in for such situations. After the component has cooled down, its functionality returns, or the safety device resets. If you could find the transistor that supplies the electricity to the coin rejector coil, you could feel if it was getting too hot. If it burns you, it is getting too hot.

Now maybe I misinterpreted what the problem situation was. If that is the case, I apologize.

[naha13]

Thanks for all the electronic help, but as it turns out it was a mechanical issue. When I first opened it up there was a severe coin jam in the mech. I didn't see it at the time, but it bent the metal cage that latches/unlatches just enough to act like it was not fully engaged. A little finger massage back to a normal shape and magic, it works as it should now. Feels just like working on a vintage pachinko, most always something mechanical more than electronic.

Now I have a new issue - Everything goes until it's time to STOP the reels. There is an issue with the lever that is not fully disengaging and preventing the reel lights from coming on until you tap the lever again. It doesn't happen every time, but enough that it's an issue. Anyone ever take one apart? Is it worth it(maybe just dirty or weak spring load) or should I look for a replacement lever?

[luckydog]

its easy to remove the start lever and take it apart, I've fixed a few just by spraying contact cleaner around the shaft and working the lever.
sometimes it just isn't centering properly.

[naha13]

What's the easiest way to get at it? Pop the front cover first or just remove it all from the back of the door?

its easy to remove the start lever and take it apart, I've fixed a few just by spraying contact cleaner around the shaft and working the lever.
sometimes it just isn't centering properly.